Yes 440Magnum is correct about piston slap and I also learned some things from what he posted.
My earlier comment about piston slap was due to my uncle not taking into account the .7 lift with 1.7:1 rockers which was further detonated with his buddy putting the pistons in backwards where the valve reliefs in the piston were not lined up right. The valve literally slapped the piston causing an impacted valve and a piston out the cylinder wall.
My question is the rods going to be in package with the pistons? Or can they be bought seperatly with the "nice guy" discount of the piston included? I was contemplating trying out casting an aluminum block that would match the bore of the Hemi Head project, so a stock piston wouldn't work.

Pistons hitting valves is not piston slap. That is poor assembly.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Yes, that was some shotty work I won't lie, not to metion an expensive mistake. Also I apologize to confuse people about the "piston slap" comment. The first comment was related to getting to close to your valves even if their stock. Also what had happened were we assembled the heads and the other party assembled the short block. We didn't really check each other's work. Thank goodness we were able to save the ported Indy heads...

The bush that Dan is prevaricating about is this: My daily driver 440 (built with short-skirt KB Hypereutectic pistons with zero-offset pins) sounds like a Ford Powerstroke when its cold

But 20,000 miles without any change in sound, nor does it burn any oil. I even tore it back down the first time and moved the rotating assembly to another block with all clearances *meticulously* checked. KB swears that their piston "should be quiet," but I've talked to a number of people who've used the short-skirt HE combination and we all agree that "quiet" is relative. They're quieter than forged pistons. They're quieter than open exhaust or most loud-ish mufflers. But quiet compared to stock? No way.

FWIW, I wouldn't go that route again. The short skirts aren't buying me anything in this application other than some safety margin because the pistons are pretty light. I suspect that I could put a brick on the throttle and this engine would sit there screaming until the fuel runs out because the mechanical rev limit is *WAY* beyond what the cam, heads, and exhaust will support. No, I'm not going to try it and put the video on YouTube.... :-p

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[quote="k1tom"][quote="gmader"]Hi K1 Tom,

I just learned more about K1 via Mopar Action's last issue. I am glad you are taking an interest in us, but I gotta ask. Why are you interested in our little old slant engine? We love it, but we are self admittedly a small group.

The reason that Tom is showing interest in us is I called him and asked for help. The same way that other people get manufactures interested in an idea. Dont look a gift horse in the mouth. I belive that untill my engine is built and dyno'ed this maybe one of my last posts for quite sometime. Tom you got my number.......

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

What is the projected weight of these rods?

A 7" 198 rod is 770-795g. They can be lightened to 750g or less.

Besides the other problems mentioned of adapting a BBM 7.1" or BBC 6.8" aftermarket rod, they must weigh 850-900g. These rods are built for 800-1200HP and, along with the 7/16" bolts bolts, they are overkill and overweight.

What kind of piston are you planning on? Some kind of OEM? Is this why the 6.9" length? If you are going with a BBC .990" pin, custom opistons are needed.
I'd rather see a rod designed for 300-400HP, 3/8" cap screws, big end sized to run a 2.1" SBC rod bearing, small end sized for a .875 or .927 pin, at least 7" long. Then have a piston made to fit with the bore size and compression height wanted.

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Slant Cecil

Right now, I have a 7.000" rod designed with 3/8" ARP bolts. Since we have not started production, we can change center to center, wrist pin diameter etc. which I can do based on information I am collecting. To keep the rod econimical, we must settle on 1 or 2 lengths. If everyone wants something different, we get into a one-off custom rod and the price will go up. Currently, this 7.000" rod is a fully machined H-beam rod and weighs about 100 grams less than the factory piece.

I, for one, would be interested in a "198" type rod to use with 2.2 pistons. Already have the ARP 142-6001, 3/8" rod bolts, so that size would work for me.

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

I am in for a 7.00" rod. Pin diameter.... I dunno, as it would depend on the piston.

Greg

The rod bolts that you have are to replace the stock OEM style bolts and will not work with most aftermarket rods. These rods will come with 3/8"225,000 psi ARP2000 bolts.

Thanks for the correction. I'll save the 142-6001s for a different build, then. Live and learn.

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

Just for the sake of discussion, to insure that the big ends of the rods are round and to size, the bolts that are to be used must be in the rods and properly tightened when they are honed. Changing rod bolts can distort the big end bore due to the difference in clamp load from different bolts.

Any update as to when I could purchase a set of these rods? Have a /6 turbo buildup that could use them.

Tom
I am also getting close on rods. 198 size and length for 2.2/2.5 pistons.
Thanks
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I'm also interested and have cash in hand - updates from Tom?

Lou

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