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 Post subject: Slant Six Ele Dizzy
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 3:44 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Posts: 74
Location: australia ,brisbane
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HEY GUYS/ GIRLS

the black sheep here again ..

i just bought a slant six eletric dizzy but i am not sure if it is a factoy performance one

it `s part number is on a little alloy tag scewred to the dizzy the number is 3874714 in a large stamp and on smaller on is 28 6

i think this should be a good upgrade from the bosch style us aussies have as stock over here

oh the stock dizzy curve we run over here is MECH total 10.5-12.5 begin @475-500rpm -7.5-9.5`@950-1000 al in by 2200


as for the vacum 7.5`total 0`@7-9hg 5`@10.5 all in @13hg (7.5`) this may help any one over there


yours a little wooly

the black sheep

:)

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 Post subject: 1976...
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 5:58 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
dizzy the number is 3874714
This is a nice dizzy to have, it's for a 1976 Slant with a Manual Tranny if still all OEM...

The Specs are (multiply number by 2 to get crank degrees):

Mech:
1-4.5 deg @450 rpm
4-6.5 deg @ 650 rpm
7-9 deg @2500

Vac..

.5-2.5 @7"
7-10 @ 11.5"


Test it out, and install at 10-12 degrees initial... If running a performance setup, lighten the springs up so they come in slightly quicker (and max out the mech adv. by 25-2700...)

good luck,

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:15 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: australia ,brisbane
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HEY THANKS

for the quick reply the dizz is going into a 1969 ozzie valiant with a mild ish 225 (60" over cam mild head work 500 edelbrock tuned headers ) its my day to day car so it has to be quite street able so it runs a shift kitted 904 auto with a 1800-2000 stall ..

yours a little more informed

the black sheep

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 Post subject: tryed the dizzy
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:04 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: australia ,brisbane
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hey guys /girls

i fitted the dizzy and tryed it it was a little trubblesome to get started first time .

due to the fact i was useing a HEI style module from a gm .. after finding the signal wires from the dizzy where ass about i got it to run .

with the timing set at 10 ` it ran well but pinged a little at about 3000+ and also on the cruise at about 35 mph so i dropped it back to 7` with no pinging but it has a huge flat spot just off idle ... like no fuel
so i jetted up the acc squirters and it still was there .

so through a proess of elmnation i have put it down to a incorrect module

yours sick of being shock by ingtion leads

the black sheep

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 Post subject: Re Fitted The Dizzy
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 1:24 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:32 pm
Posts: 74
Location: australia ,brisbane
Car Model:
HEY ALL

I`VE re fitted the dizzy i am now using a 6al msd to drive it all but now ive got a pinging problem about 2800-3200 rpm climbing hills and under light to mid throttle

so far i`ve gotten rid of the split fire plugs i was running
fitted stock ones gapped to (.45")

screwed the ajustable vac can full clock wise as per little booklet that came with it .. it`s number is a 11R on the arm

and reset my timming to 5`btdc .. still no luck

my results so far where most improved by the vac can ajustment
but it did not full solve the ping !!

i dumped a bottle of octane booster on my 95 octane fuel .. no cahnge ,,,


your driving like a grandma

the black sheep

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:20 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:30 am
Posts: 945
Location: Tiegerpoort, Pretoria, South Africa
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Hi ya over there in the land of Oz

First of all -sorry we took the cup back to Springbok land!!

Wont happen again soon....

Your edelbrock is also a vacuum secondary type if I am not mistaken

What your secondary jetting like? I use to have the symptoms on my 390 holley- under load conditions I would experience pinging - fitted a microswitch to secondary shaft to light up an LED when it opened.

The AF meter I run tests with showed a drop in mixture strenght - something likw 18 20 to 1

Changed to a secondary metering block and upped the jets step by step

now all is happy

I am also running a mopar electronic dizzy of the same vintage as yours with an msd 6a

Recurved it - lighter springs etc - 32 degrees mech at 2600 - gives me 14 degrees at 750 rpm idle

And yes adjusting the blasted thing is quite shocking if your wires is not up to it - changed over to accel prostock - 8 or 8.8mm I think no probs

I can attest personally to the multiple discharge

Oh yes NGK ZFR5A-11 works very well

Ta - with power cuts over here I am thinking moving to your part of the world!!

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Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:58 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Have you confirmed the total mechanical advance that this distributer puts-out?
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:48 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
Black Sheep,

I am running a very similar distributor and I do not have any pinging problems with a one barrel and an automatic. In fact it is very punchy!

Maybe this will help.

New electronic distributor re-curved with red primary spring and extra long looped secondary spring from a 400 distributor. It has a15R governor with a 11R V8 vacuum advance screwed in 3 turns. Blue Streak cap, MO-3000 Echlin rotor, Chrome Blaster 2 coil and 8mm Blue Summit wires. Timing set at 16 degrees initial, 16 degrees mechanical and 20 degrees with the vacuum advance for a 52 degree total.

Tuning: Adjustable vacuum advances can be adjusted to when the advance starts, not the amount. The part# number on the can or number on the arm indicates the total amount of advance.

Using a 3/32 allen wrench you can adjust the advance to where you can plug it in and unplug the vacuum line and see zero or little timing change. For me that is about 3 turns.

For reference, at idle with my cam I am at 18 pounds vacuum. So there is no advance from 18 pounds or less. Then you have it set right on. You don't want the vacuum advance to kick in too soon or it could over advance and surge or when the engine is too hot, causing it to ping. At cruise I run between 15 and 22 inches of vacuum. At 15 inches vacuum and 2000 rpm puts me right at 30 degrees timing, 19 inches at 2500 rpms puts me about 45 degrees. Letting off slightly say 20 inches takes it on up to 52 degrees. :D

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject: Errr... not because...
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 1:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
So there is no advance from 18 pounds or less


Just to clarify...
There should be no vacc. advance at idle, since the throttle plates if positioned correctly cover the port that activates the vacc. adv pod... if you have vacc. at the advance port, then you are not dialed in correctly or the carb is not correct for your application (or you have plugged the hose into the port that has all vacc. all the time...)

Climate, and gasoline quality also have a bit to do with dialing in the dizzy/ carburation tuning (how warm is it down there?)

Vacc. advance is meant to supplement the mech advance for highway/mileage...

First we should ask, does it 'ping' when you plug the vacc. adv. line and drive it under load on an incline in the conditions you described? (if no, then you need a vacc. pod that produces a bit less adv. than currently perscribed... i.e. an 8.5 stamped arm version would be a bit better than the 11R version since it will deliver only 17 degrees of advance vs. the 22 you are getting)... How much compression are you running?
Also, have you taken the time to plot the advance curve on a grease board/notpad? (i.e. un plug adv.hose... note initial, then run the car at various rpms in the driveway in neutral with the wheels chocked and using a dialback timing light to see where it's advanced at vs. rpm... then setting the carb at a specific rpm that you noted the advance at and using a hand vacc. pump... map out the vacc. can at various vacc. readings)...
That will tell you how much advance you have at a specific rpm/vacc. reading while driving, and show you what you need to knock off...



Quote:
with no pinging but it has a huge flat spot just off idle ... like no fuel
so i jetted up the acc squirters and it still was there .
Another question to ask... did you read the plugs before and after doing this to see if it was necessary? (were they tan before, during the 'flat spot'? Where they still tan after the flat spot?)

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 3:26 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:32 pm
Posts: 74
Location: australia ,brisbane
Car Model:
HEY ALL

this arvo after work i reset the carb back to stock it was set 83 pri 62-52 rods with 89 sec 38 acc squirters ..

and screwed the 11r vac can all the way in and back out three turns counter cock wise ..

the ping has stopped it feel a little better so a top it up with $20 of 98 octane fuel ( 4 gallons )

the a advenure got a little better when a lifted the timmingt to 7`btdc .. more down low punch .. a very slight full throttle ping at about 5200 second .. oh it now revs a bit higher .

the cruise 35 is at 18-20 hg vac and about 15-18 at 60mph

yours a little bit happier

the black sheep

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 3:41 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:32 pm
Posts: 74
Location: australia ,brisbane
Car Model:
hey all

ive just stoped a read you notes proply it get to about 26-30`c down here in summer and about 18-25 in winter

doctor dodge my total timming is stock i think its about 30 ish ` well to quote "18`total " d-idoit

the other thing i hear pepole say a "blue spring "? who makes this spring ...

and i`ve got a stock dizzy cap so whats a "blue strek cap"?

and how do you corectly set a ajustable vac can ?? and whats the starting point ...

your drinking beer and thinking about the cricket ..

the black sheep

in austraila

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:42 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
Black Sheep,

If your still pinging at 5200 rpm then you need a stiffer secondary spring to limit the mechanical advance. You should also rotate the spring pin on the governor to shorten the throw. Other folks like to weld the governor slot to shorten the throw.

I don't see a reference to a blue spring.

A Blue Streak distributor cap is a brand that is ground very true and has copper contacts. Do a Google search on it. SlantsixDan prefers these caps.

To set the vaccum advance can, you don't want it to engage at idle at all.

Using a 3/32 allen wrench you can adjust the advance to where you can plug it in and unplug the vacuum line and see zero or any timing change. For me that is about 3 turns.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:09 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:32 pm
Posts: 74
Location: australia ,brisbane
Car Model:
THE BLACK SHEEP

again .. i would like to thank all of the guys/girls of the slant six forums for the help so far in helping me set up my slant .. even though my mission is not over yet ...

i am going to try running my slant at 10` just to see if its pinging or vavle bounce ...

oh and i dropped the power spirng setting on the edelbrock to a yellow one (5"hg vac) ..

i still am not full sure how to dial the vac can in do you screw it all the way clock wise .. the back out 3 turns ?? or fully out then 3 turns in???

and the dizzy cap on mine is tan with what look like alloy contacts in it . and a fixed ( non sprong ) centre point ,,

yours loving 7/16th spanners ..

the black sheep

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:22 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Quote:
still am not full sure how to dial the vac can in do you screw it all the way clock wise .. the back out 3 turns ?? or fully out then 3 turns in???
The advance is at max when screwed in fully, clockwise. I have mine unscrewed (counter clockwise) 3 turns out to eliminate any effect (no timing change) at idle when you plug in the vacuum line. You should be using ported vacuum line off the carb (above the throttle plates), not one with full vacuum.[/quote]

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:03 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:32 pm
Posts: 74
Location: australia ,brisbane
Car Model:
hey all

the 3 turns out works well on mine the base setting is about 2 1/2 turns out ..
my static timming is set at about 7-8` i do have a slight ping but only at about 55 ish mph .. i am thinking it may be a little lean spot .. causing it ... i don`t know what the mixture is at the minute due to the fact the gauge is on the fritz ,..

yours the ba ba black sheep

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