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 Post subject: Lower my A-Body
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 1:09 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 6:07 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Detroit
Car Model:
Has anyone ever lowered there A-body? I am thinking about lowering my '63 about 1" in the front and 1.5" in the rear, maybe 1" all around. I don't want to go all out and fabricate suspension nor do I want to do it the old fashioned way (heat the spring and have some buddies sit on the hood, pull a couple of leaf springs out) Is there some other Chrysler parts that fit on my A-body that will lower the car?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 4:33 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
You can lower the front by adjusting the torsion bars. The adjustment is in the lower control arm. I wouldn't go more than an inch or an inch and half lower. The rear can be lowered, I believe about an inch, by flipping the front leaf spring hangers. As I understand the process, you switch them from side to side and turn them upside down. If you do either or both, be sure to get the front end aligned after. The camber will certainly be altered and the caster is likely to be wrong as well.

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'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:22 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
"Adjustable" spring hangers are available for A- and E-bodies HERE and HERE, with two positions, one lowering the rear about an inch.

Torsion bar adjustment is easy enough, even if you need to realign afterwards. You might want to go to stiffer bars to stay off the bump stops.

DON'T heat springs - leaf, torsion, coil or what-have-you.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 5:17 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 25, 2003 12:41 am
Posts: 844
Location: wichita ks
Car Model:
FYI-- check your mounting holes on your 63-- my 62 has a 3 hole approach -- not the 4 hole style shown.. I'm sure it could be worked around -- just something to be aware of, Lawrence.

also run some 205/60/14 tires-- that will lower that front end.


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 Post subject: 2" lower blocks on my 63
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:05 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2006 9:11 am
Posts: 84
Location: Venice, CA
Car Model:
I have my 63 lowered and its not bad, you really have to be careful on some driveways. so much that im looking into airbags now. Nothing wrong with low and slow, besides she is a sleeper.
the rear has 2" blocks and the front was adjusted as stated before. still running the 13" rims also.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 8:13 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2008 1:43 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Fellsmere, FL
Car Model:
I just lowered my 64 valiant 2" in the front and back. Use lowering blocks ($30 from your local auto parts store), ream out the holes in the shock brackets, bend the ubolts to fit, and crank away at the nuts. You may have to file down the nipples that go into the bottom of the rearend so they'll fit. Then crank the torsion bars down and make sure they're level. Check the tire clearances, then try to find a shop that can fit it on an alignment rack and get that done. Mine doesn't scrape enough to bother with (even on 13" factory steelies!) and when it does scrape, it's only enough to make the pipe ring instead of scratching. It has a bit of a bump in the back because of the blocks, but it's doable. And it makes your car look like it has an adjustable suspension. Total cost - $30 plus alignment.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:21 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
Quote:
Up front, I notched-out the lower control arms where the rubber bump-stop mounts, then cut down the bump-stops to 3/8 of an inch. Doing this maintains suspension travel after you wind-down the torsion bars. Stiffer T-bars are a good idea if you do this.

In back, I flipped over a leaf spring segment in the stack, added some short leafs and a angle adjustment wedge on top of the spring pile... adding all these pieces to the top of the spring stacks dropped the rear a bunch.
So... how low can you get your A-Body??
DD

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 12:32 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2008 1:43 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Fellsmere, FL
Car Model:
Mine's about that low...I'll post pics later on today, after I spray some black primer on the top. It actually rides better a couple inches down from stock.

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Road Devils CC Nomads
1964 4-door Valiant
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