Okay so I figure the most important thing to address on my Duster when I get back (especially given the fact that it'll be pricey and upon returning from a deployment will be the best time to do it) to the states will be completely rebuilding the suspension and refurbishing the brakes. Here are my current plans, submitted for suggestions or recommendations:

Slotted front rotors (if I can track any down)
new calipers
new master cylinder
rebuilt booster (can they even be rebuilt or am I stuck having to get a new unit?)
new drums & 10" x 1 3/4" shoes in the rear
Raybestos WC37696 wheel cylinders
stainless steel braided brake lines

ESPO 5-leaf springs in the rear
.89" torsion bars
KYB shocks
polygraphite bushings all around, save for the LCAs (those will get OEM rubber, unless someone else has a better recommendation)
Bill Reilly's tubular UCAs W/ the rod ends
ADDCO 1 1/8" front and 3/4" rear sway bars

Thoughts or suggestions?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

What are you trying to achieve with the car, and what is your budget (time and money)?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

A couple of observations for what it's worth. Slotted rotors look really cool but they don't really buy you much in terms of real performance. You can do just about as well by cutting a slot in the pads diagonally from one corner across to the opposite corner. Some will even cut an "X" pattern. This allows the pad to outgas without losing contact with the rotor. It also changes the vibration characteristics so that they are less likely to squeak and squeal.

Personally I would pitch the booster and convert to manual brakes. The Duster is a light car and a healthy person with at least average leg strength will have no problem bringing it to a stop. You'll also have better "feel" in the pedal making it easier to modulate your braking force as needed.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I've considered doing the maual brake thing. That'd just require a manual disc/drum MC wouldn't it? I like the idea of having one less vacuum line to act as a possible leak source. It'd definitely save me the money that the booster would cost.

I suppose I could give it a shot to slot the pads themselves. What'd be a good way to do it? Hacksaw? Also, if I go with OEM rotors, what's the recommended brand?

Lou, I've got a second vehicle, so I'll take whatever time necessary to get the money to do the whole job right and make it last. When I drive the Duster, I drive pretty aggressively around town, plus the roads are all beat to hell with potholes and cheap cop-out patch jobs in the concrete. I do a decent amount of highway driving too, so I want it to have a nice smooth ride at high speeds.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

While you're under there ...

C-body tie rods won't hurt, and didn't cost any more than stockers when I did mine. Solid versions are a bit more expensive.

I don't know that LCA reinforcements do any good, but they're easy. I made mine from scrap after hours at work, then called in a favor to get them welded on. Mancini and others sell them.

Check the K-frame and other welds, reinforce where necessary.

I'd wait on the rear swaybar until I found out what the front bar did for handling.

Make it pretty! Powder coating or at least some good spraypaint.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

A hacksaw will work just fine. Cut down to about 1/8" to 1/4" from the backing plate. You need to leave some meat underneath so that water doesn't get in and start corrosion under the pad friction material.

As for the brand of rotor I would use a Raybestos or Bendix or equivalent. I would avoid the super cheap made in China parts.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I would just get them right from the source andyf/ AREngineering has them (he actually supplies them to Mancini, etc...)

My '76 already has the manual disc brakes, they are much better than the power disc option (I'd only use power disc's in like a B/C/E body application where the weight and motor size dictate the need for it)... if you need more brakes, you can 'cheat' a bit and find the caliper claws from a B/C/R body and use the larger rotors and calipers from those cars (i.e. the 'cop car setup)... but this will necessitate the use of 15" rims...

11/16" (C-body) tie rods, new bushings, etc...up grading torsion bars to the next step (892/893's or better if you plan on 'sliding' it around the corners...


good luck man (and hope you come back soon).

-D.Idiot

I'm hoping to get scrap LCAs that I can spend the time cleaning up and rebuilding. I'm thinking a good cleanup and zinc coat for the fasteners (I've been wanting to play with a zinc coating kit for some time now) and black powdercoat on the arms themselves. Same with another K-member, though swapping THAT out will be a good amount of arse pain I'm sure.

Will the C body tie rods work with A body tie rod ends? The full kit I was planning to get from P-S-T comes with TREs, so if I can still use those, I'm set.

I'm planning on getting the LCA beefup plates from AR as well. Their 10si alternator bracket looks intriguing as well...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

No, the sleeves have to match the tie rod end threads. 11/16" is the C body size. You might ask what your supplier has available - they may allow an upgrade.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I just got the 'super' set and it has all the parts needed to replace everything, I didn't see (but didn't ask) an upgrade for the 11/16" sleeves and ends, etc... I just bought a new set over the counter from Baxter's here in town ($10 less than Firm Feel's price... )

One thing to note, if you remove the k-member... take some time to drill an 1/8" hole in the 'frame' above where the bolts are at, and spend a couple of days getting some WD-40/PB blaster in there... I didn't when pulling the 'K' from the FDX, and ended up having one of the K-member 'nuts' come loose from it's stampings/welds and it just went 'roundy-round'... (I'll have to open, reweld a nut and frame peice from one of my 'donor' body patches)...

Good luck,

-D.Idiot

OUCH! Thanks for the tip. I've got a gallon can of Kroil for just such adventures

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me