I recently completed a disk brake conversion, front and rear suspension rebuild and wheel and tire upgrade on my '65 Valiant. I've been driving the car for a few days now. Thought I'd share some random thoughts about the build and how it drives. The project took several weeks and cost around $1,700 for everything. I did this at school as sort of a final project. I had access to a lift, alignment rack and just about any tool I needed for the job. It was really fun. I learned a ton of stuff and gained a lot of experience.

There were definitely a few major hassles getting the new parts out and replaced. Here are a few that stand out: 43-year-old camber bolts can be quite stubborn. It literally took hours to get one out. I broke a shock mount stud when the rear shocks were removed. Luckily, member dakight was kind enough to get one out to me very quickly for a very reasonable price. While tightening the rear spring hanger nuts, I snapped a stud, so now it's being held by only 3. Oops. Getting the pivot pin bushings out of the control arms was a nightmare. The inside of the pivot bore got all chewed up from the various tools I used trying to get them out. I guess it's all par for the course.

The adjustable brake proportioning valve/dist. block was a real pain to get right. I made my own outlet port lines from part store tubing. I thought I was ready to bleed the system so I filled up the master cylinder with fluid. My crummy flares ended up leaking. This cost me a lot of time and was a major source of frustration. I spent an entire day covered in brake fluid which made my hands wrinkle up like prunes for a week and a half. (I know - gloves, but fluid soaked right through) After much re-doing and teeth gnashing, I sent the outlet port lines and frame crossover out to be re-done by Right Stuff Detailing. They were able to match the lines I made myself and provided me with new fittings and perfect CNC flares. They seem to be OK for now. There's no visible leaks, I'm not losing fluid and I have brakes.

I'm not entirely happy with the way the brake pedal feels. It is firmer than it used to be with drums though I was hoping it would be super firm and quicker reacting. I had to go with the 10.87 rotors since I had the shorter caliper adapter. I really don't think that makes a huge difference in stopping power. Perhaps it's the organic-material pads? I bled the brakes a few times attempting to firm up the pedal. I've read that the pedal may be a little soft with this type of setup, especially without a booster. Perhaps I may bleed them again to see if that does anything. It's still better than the white-knuckle death grip ride with the drums. The rears are not locking up under hard braking, so I have yet to mess with the prop. valve. Not driving with complete confidence yet, I guess it will just take more time behind the wheel.

The suspension system is working good for the most part. It's a nice firm ride, but not too unforgiving. The KYB's I installed are stiff but not harsh. With all the new parts, it took me a few tries to get the alignment right. Ride height is an imperative measurement and should be corrected before doing the alignment. One of my instructors suggested 26" from the fender lip to the ground. I used that as a reference and it wound up being pretty close to where I ended up. I've learned that caster makes a big difference in road feel and must be adjusted correctly to get everything else in line. (ride height, caster, camber, toe in that order). Before I made the latest adjustment, there was scary bump steer and the car wandered all over the place. The over-steer that some of the other guys mentioned to me in an earlier post was present but seemed to go away after I adjusted the ride height to the proper level. It still pulls to the right a little on braking, so I guess I still need to tweak it a little. When going down the road, it goes straight but when I let go of the wheel, it drifts to the right. The steering wheel is not tilted a whole lot, so it's close to being dead-nuts. Maybe it's the no-response power steering in need of adjustment. Dunno.

I'd also like to mention a curious observation - when looking at the front of the car, camber appears to visually change slightly each time I drive it. Maybe things are still 'settling'. Dunno about that either.

One rather unpleasant experience was that the u-bolts on the pass-side leaf springs became loose after the first few times I drove it. It was making a big racket under the floor, clunking and creaking. I could kinda sense the axle housing moving around behind me as I went over rough road. I knew exactly what it was - I put the thing up in the air and found the nuts were barely finger tight! I zipped those up tight and everything was nice and quiet afterwards. It actually was affecting ride quality, so that was a big relief to fix that issue.

So, all in all, it was a success. I'm of the opinion that nothing is completely done until you can drive the car without thinking about it, so I'm not there just yet. But I am proud that I finished it and that the car is 'better' than when I rolled it into the shop. And I still think the thing looks killer with the big'n'littles.

Thanks for reading,

Greg

You are correct about "ride hight" being a critical setting. Howerevr I do take issue, with your instructors advice of using the fender lip dimension. The sheet metal might not be made equal on both fenders, or "hung" the same. There is a factory spec, which is taken off the lower control arm. It will get the "chassis" level, regardlis of the sheet metal.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Don't you love the upgrade potential for these cars? Lots of bolt-ins, new and junkyard. What kind of tire/wheel combination are you using?
Not unusual, with all new parts getting acquainted. Charlie's right, check ride height the factory way, then consider the "look". A properly aligned suspension helps you keep the sheetmetal straight!

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Charlie,

Going back and looking, I didn't realize what the FSM was saying until just now. They want you to measure from the ball joint to the floor, then from the torsion bar anchor housing to the floor, subtract first measurement from second and the value should be 1.75" + or - .125"

The fender lip was just a ball park dimension, but it was actually helpful for me to see the overall results when I did it that way. It sits pretty good right now, I don't believe I'm way off but since I'm now armed with more insight perhaps I can get it 'more better'.

Thanks for the input.

It's basically all Mopar factory stuff. I got parts from many sources - Rock Auto has a ton of stuff for these cars at reasonable prices. I got some stuff on the 'Bay, local parts stores, some at Carlisle and ESPO sent me the springs. Nothing fancy, just factory upgrades and replacement parts for the old stuff. I followed the MA Disc-O-Tech article by Ehrenberg.

Wheels and tires are black steelies - 15 x 5.5 front with 205/60/15 BFG T/As and 15 x 8 rear, SBP(!), 4.875" BS, 245/60/15 BFG's.



See reply to Charlie above!


Greg