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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 11:33 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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bump and ditto. If this is real, I would like to know soon. I have a block in my garage I want to get started on.

Greg


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 7:47 am 
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Quote:
bump and ditto. If this is real, I would like to know soon. I have a block in my garage I want to get started on.

Greg
Yes, this is for real and we are going to make the rods. We are currently waiting for a cast of the combustion chamber so we can sort out the piston options. Once we get going on this, it will only take a few weeks to make the rods.

Tom


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 8:06 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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would it help to take a plaster cast (or some other type of cast) of my worked, ported head, and send it to you?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:32 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

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If a cast is needed it can be arranged quickly of the stock, updated combustion chamber head. It may be best to have a cast of a head with bigger valves though because that may be what most are running that would use the rods.


With the head we have to work with, a step-dish piston would be the going setup for quench, plus keeping the CR in check. Most heads are shaved that have had work done to them ( .100 most of the time).


Jess


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 1:09 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Hi Jess,

I agree with your assumptions about the step dish piston. I would ask that we have the option of opening up the dish, to accommodate turbocharged engines, such as the one that I am building.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 1:14 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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also, I have two, stock heads. If you want casts of those, I am happy to provide them.

( Yes, I have four heads at home now, for one car. If anybody in SoCal needs a good one to start with, let me know.)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 7:42 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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I told Tom that I am working on the castings. I am sending him one of a stock untouched head and one of my modified head. The big difference is I didnt take .100 off my head. I called Tom to get the compression with a rod and not machine work. I do belive that they can take all that under account though. I should have it done this weekend.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:21 am 
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Mopardemon71 Does your modied head have os valves if so which? Just making sure we are on the same page.
Frank

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:30 am 
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If it is of any help at this point, I have a new bare head just out of the mopar box. If you end up needing another casting I could take one.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:00 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Yes it does Frank. 1.72/1.50 sbchevy and the finished cc will be around 58 to 60 cc's. I have a stocker next door (different guy) and it always seems that I run out of time. Or is that just me. So, I went to do the casting today but the guy doing my head was busy with his 600 CID chevy :shock: . maybe by friday.

Anothersix, If it has valves and all you could do it. Im catching hell with trying to get my buddy to get this done.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 2:36 pm 
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bump

any ETA? I am ready to bore, and I need to pick out pistons.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 4:42 pm 
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Gerald and I have started talking about building an engine for "Turismo 225" and this discussion with Doc's price comparison on preparing 198 rods puts me in the "I'd be interested too!" category...

And thanks Tom for taking an interest in us "Dare to be Different" kinda guys!

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 4:32 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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gmander I am tring to get this done and it is coming along. You can pick any bore size you want really and tell Tom he will have his hands in this and keep you specs were you want them. I myself am going .040 over. What you really want to know is the piston face shape right? As to the compression these rods and pistons will make right? With my head I'm looking at 10.1/1 with flat top pistons. My cam is only going to .501 lift so I'm not sweating it to bad and if i need more I'll get valve reliefs put in. You can also get the rod at 6.900 to lower the compression to.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 7:22 am 
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Thanks again for your and Tom's efforts. If feasible, I would offer the rod in 6.75" length (close to stock 225, for stock piston folks at a bit more comp than stock), 7" length, and 7.15" length.

The 7" gives you a setup for 198 rod folks with 2.2L pistons or Chev 2.8L pistons at around 1.59" comp height.

The 7.15" gives you access to other factory style pistons such as the 2.4L Mopar at 1.4" compression height.

There are also a TON of sport compact pistons (Honda, Mitsu, Nissan...) in our bore sizes with 1.18-1.28" comp height. This would require about a 7.45" rod for a zero deck motor. :shock:

Just some thoughts here...

If I had to pick one length, it would be 7".

Thanks again,

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:41 am 
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I notice that a LOT of people seem to be looking for 198 rods for buildups. At $200+/set for rods that need to be rebuilt, a set of new billet rods for a reasonable price seems like it could mop up this business.

Lou

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