What's Twiggy going into?


CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

That's not a slant 6..... it's vertical.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

That's 'cause you're looking at it wrong. Lean over to the right. A little more...a little more...

*CRASHkaTHUD*

...a little less...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

At this point, it looks like Twiggy will end-up in the Dacuda.
The Dacuda is running pretty good but I am starting to see some oil "muck" in the coolent.
May-be a head gasket starting to go or may-be the trans. cooler in the bottom of the radiator has a small leak... ???

The motor oil is not milky and the engine is running fine... so I will keep beating on it to see if anything bad shows it's self. Nothing like having a back-up engine ready to swap-in.
DD

Perfect.

Doug, you seem to be doing what a lot of us play at in bench-racing sessions: Take the best parts from different years, massage them a bit, and build what the factory should have.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

The cooler leak in the Rad would be the easiest thing to conferm. Heck, you have a few well built slants, what would a rad. swap take???

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

Yes, that is what "hot rodding" is all about.
I am to the point where doing the "factory stock" stuff is boring... even some of the performance builds are getting pretty routeen where you get known results from a known set of parts.

Need to keep pushing at the edges... there is still lot's to be learned in using turbos and EFI on the SL6.
DD

If I am going to pull the radiator out of the car.... I will keep going and swap-in a different engine! There are not that many more bolts if you think about it.
DD

You sound like me, the engine in my car is rebuilt. But its kinda a stock rebuild. I have a new head waiting that has new guides, shaved .100, valves and a little porting. My son wanted me to put the new head on, I told him if I was going to do that I would just pull the engine and install the block that is setting on a stand, fresh built with .040 pistons. Might as well gain all you can if you going to tear into things. I wanted to do a few more things to the new engine on the stand before I run it, I told him we would just wait until we had the new bullit finished and do a engine swap. Much easier than a head change anyway .



Jess

I agree, an engine goes together so much better on an engine stand. That is when you have the best conditions and most time to be sure everything is done right.

Speaking of getting all the little details ready...
I made-up a special die cast aluminum thermostat cover to hold the end of a mechanical water temp gauge.



This is the first time I have made one of these using the die cast cover and these do not have much of cross-section to tap threads into. I ended-up using a good amount of epoxy on the thread (I was able to get about 1 complete thread "turn" in the thin housing wall) and put extra epoxy on both sides of the fitting... it looks like it will seal and hold-up.
DD

Doc,

Can you share some of those performance builds in your "BUILD Sheet" format with us?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

We are talking about 30+ years of SL6 engine building...
Many different combinations of 170, 198 & 225 formats, "hashed" many different ways... economy, street performance, race and even some marine build-ups. Too many to list here.

May-be you can dig-up the engine build-up combination thread we started and I can add a SL6 build-up of group interest, to that thread.
DD

Doc,

I found the thread and reposted to it.
Let's move the discussion about interesting SL6 engine combinations to this other thread. Thanks!
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... uild+sheet

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Good work finding that other thread, I will post to it soon.

Anyway, back to the aftermarket temp gauge for the Dacuda.

I knew that installing the new temp gauge would take way to much time, and it did. I made a nice little holder and set the new gauge between the speedo and the large dash mounted vacuum gauge found in the 66 B'cuda's.

In the end, the new gauge installed nicely but now I have to figure why there is a difference between the factory's dash mounted gauge reading and the reading on the new gauge. I guess it is more of a question of "which one is right"? Best to know that answer before installing an all aluminum engine into the car.

It is nice to now have a gauge that has some numbers on it and I did manage to get the backlighting on the new gauge to match the color of the rest of the dash lights. As an added bonus, I also got the backlight for the steering column gear selector display to work, the darn steering column needed a better ground path.
DD

I swapped factory temp gauge sending units and fixed the dash mounted gauge error... it only took 2 senders to get the two different temp gauges I now have, tracking together.

It is interesting to note that the low reading sender has been in the car for years and was producing gauge readings that were a good 20 degrees lower then actual. The "take-away"... Check your gauge accuracy!

The first sender I switched-in was better but still seemed a bit low, maybe 5 -7 degrees. The next sender installed is in "lock step" with the after market gauge and "spot-on" as far as hitting the running range at 160 and operating at the thermostat temp. (180) This is the next line up on the 66 B'cuda's temp gauge.

My next test will be to use a cooking thermometer to see if those numbers check-out.
So many little details...
DD