My 63 Dart GT 6 was running fine for the past 4 months and 1500 miles since I replaced the electromechanical VR with another one which solved an out of control overcharging problem. Today all was normal for 5 miles and then could not restart. Also, no radio, wipers, heater fan, etc. Only the dome light worked so I assumed that the ignition switch bezel needed tightening. Somehow I ended up with the ignition cylinder in my hand and the switch dropped behind the dash.

For my next trick I tried the headlights -- which I should have tried before messing with the ignition. No headlights! So I presumed an almost dead battery. But my meter read 12.8 volts and also 12.8 volts between the positive at the starter and the negative battery post.

For my last trick I connected my Acura's battery to the Dart battery. Dart headlights bright and shiny! Also, the engine cranked when I put a jumper from the positive to the starter motor.

So, my guess is that despite showing 12.8 volts, the Dart battery has died prematurely due to the out of control overcharging prior to swapping in the good VR. Yes? I sort of hope that it flunks a load test since otherwise I'm baffled.

I can pop in a new battery and I may be able to reconnect the ignition cylinder to the ignition switch behind the dash. However, I'm likely to do more harm than good if I try to reinstall the switch, cylinder and bezel in the dash because of all the wiring behind the dash -- arms too short and likewise my mechanical aptitude. Years ago I drove my car to a locksmith with the ignition switch, cylinder and key on top of the brake peddle, but I'd hate to do it again. Help!

I would remove and clean the battery cable ends and battery posts - especially the negative side. From your voltage tests you have voltage. As you say, it could still fail a load test. Though, I’d think it would still juice up the headlights with good connections.

And they sometimes pop when you hit the starter.

Danny

Yes, clean the battery connections.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

In my 70 Nova, I had an ignition switch go out a few years ago. It started out, I would have a dead battery, and nothing would work when i turned the key, however, when I would get a jumpstart from someone, it would get enough power to start the motor. After time, a jump wouldn't help out, and it would be just dead in the water. I bypassed the ignition switch so I could drive it for the time being, and then I kept it that way, because it doesn't bother me, and its kind of an anti theft device.

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1963 Dodge Dart -225 Slant 6, 904, 2.76's, 18.84 @ 73
1970 Nova 12.53@108
1970 Bug 15.38@87

i had a similar prob, i cleaned the bulkhead connector at firewall and yay, i was good

Itl looks like my 4 month old so-called "good" voltage regulator failed and cooked the battery. Despite reading 12.8 volts, there was nary a drop of water in the battery. After filling it up and chargong it overnight to 13.8 volts, the Dart fired up immediately. My meter shows that the VR is sending 16 volts continuously to the battery even though the dash ammeter is at dead center. After 2 miles the battery was up to 14.5 volts.

So, I'm done "saving" money by buying $15 VRs from Kragen (failed in 1 year) and Ebay (failed in 4 months). A "Made in the USA" Eichlin VR 32 can be got for $59 at the local parts store which supplies all the best repair shops. The counter man says it's "top of the line", but what say you? I prefer electromechanical to electronic since lots of the electronics are meant for 60 amp alternators and,among other things, I have no idea if my alternator is a 60 amp. Has anyone used one of these?

An elecrtonic regulator doesn't care what the output of the alternator is. It will reduce the current flow to the field as the battery comes up to full charge. I have had good luck with the VR-706 electronic regulator available at most NAPA stores. In another post, Dan mentions the VR-1001.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster