Look under "Avocations" sub heading:

http://www.systems-engineering-associates.com/papers

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

Lots more:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

Even more (specific to the filter type we use on our slant-6s)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'll stick to the K&N 3001 filter. It's the same one (same part even) that I use on my Toyota and the welded on nut makes it handy as I'll get out when changing my oil.

Just to share, one trick I do to save myself an oily mess when pulling the filter is to take a sharp punch and put a hole in the top of the filter, tapping the punch about 2" into the filter with a hammer (to make sure the anti-drainback valve is punctured) and letting the oil drain out of the filter for about 15-20 minutes while I wait for the pan to drain. Since the filter has an integrated anti-drainback valve, I removed the post and valve from my oil pump, so all that's there is the union for the filter.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

There are some interesting notes on that filter in the page I linked (in a nutshell, as it were: you're buying an expensive repainted Purolator PureOne with a nut welded on — good filter, but overpriced).
The filter's antidrainback valve and the oil pump's standpipe and check valve do not do the same job — the filter's valve prevents the oil draining "backwards" through the pump and oil pickup tube into the pan, while the standpipe and/or check valve prevent the oil draining "forwards" through the oil gallery and eventually into the pan. Though with an engine and oil pump in good condition and a good-quality filter, you may not have a significant enough forward-drain issue to require a check valve. More discussion here, here, here, here, and here (filter w/built-in standpipe).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yeah I saw that. Thing is, I rarely ever see Purolator filters where I live. I see K&N stuff everywhere thanks to the ricer crowd's mentality of "K&N INTAKE AND AIR FILTERS ARE THE BESTEST". I won't mess with K&N's air filters (had one in my Toyota, didn't do anything but make my wallet lighter) or intakes, but I definitely like their oil filters.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Dan,

I didn't see the "Mighty" brand listed. That is filter that collapsed after 50 miles of driving and wiped out my engine two years ago. When "Mighty" checked the filter they said it took 70 lbs. pressure before the bypass valve opened.
No contaminants from the engine were found in the oil test. It was a new oil change with a new filter.

Needless to say, I hand them a WIX filter and the Mobil 1 oil.

I wonder who makes them and how they compare?
Russ's email no longer works, I tried sending him an email.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Casting around the net, it looks like Mighty filters are made by Champion Labs. I'm guessing it's probably the cheaper "E-core" design discussed at length in Russ' report. His e-mail may or may not work, but in several prominent places near his e-mail address on his site, he asks/tells/begs/pleads/orders readers not to send him "What about xxxx brand of filter I didn't see on your page, are those any good/who makes them/what can you tell me about them/will you test them?" types of questions.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Mighty used to be made by Purolater. That was, maybe 10 years ago. I had to return a Mighty filter which had a hole rusted thru the shell to Purolater.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Although they work good I heard they have very little filtration and let a lot of dirt and other things in your engine.

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

What can someone do if their slant uses an oil filter cartridge instead of a spin on? Are any cartridge filters better or worse than others or do I need to change it to a spin on filter?

Danny

I was going to bring up the replaceable-cartridge type filter. I have one of these kicking around somewhere, haven't seen it in years. If I were you, I'd keep it! The replaceable elements are still very easy to get (I'd use a WIX/NAPA Gold).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I like the NAPA 1806 with the built in stand pipe. I just started using it recently and found that my worn out engine builds oil pressure twice as fast on start up.

TopHat

That's exactly what it is. Letting more air in at the cost of filtration. I took the K&N air filter out of my truck before running the risk of scoring my cylinder walls (the price of parts for rebuilding an old Toyota engine is something I DON'T want to fork over).

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me