I was just reading about some inline six that converted to stud rollers. Has anyone contemplated this? What would it take? I don't have anything to measure this week, but BB (1.5 ratio) would probably be fine. Also, there is 4.0L shaft rollers availble which are a little spendy, but what do the other inline guys use? Just trying to get the ball rolling on some ideas, I know T&D has a group thing going and I'm not trying to offset that at all. However, I'm in college and up to trying new things if they can work, so a $200 set of chevy stuff would be pretty cool. Wes

A slant uses the shaft for oiling, so I don't see how you could use stud mounted rockers on a slant

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Unless you use Doc's spray oiling system. Or set up a spray bar or ?
Just keeping you creative.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Actually I was thinking something along the lines of squirters like the new hemi uses to squirt the underside of the pistons. If you place those on the perches where the shaft would mount. Does that make sense? Anyways that should take care of the oiling and not have to heavily modify the oiling system. So the next would be drilling and tapping the head, than finding the correct length ratio. I'm thinking the 1.5 ratio should work cause it's the longest. Also the 4.0L has studs so you could probably steal those if we could get away from the v8 style.
Anyways side note doug had metioned a while back that the stockers are great pieces, and compared to all the stamped v8 style I defintely have to agree.

Shaft rockers are technically one of the best arrangements available. Why would you want to use something inferior such as a ball and stud? Those things were adopted for one reason only, cost.

_________________
Joshua

Yeah, same question as Josh asked: Why would you want to convert from superior shaft-mount rockers to inferior stud-mount ones?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

For stud-mounted roller rockers................

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

If you are bent on sbc valve train why not look at shaft mounted Jesel rockers for a sbc. You will still have to oil them.

I giggle every time I look at slant rockers.....with a piece of crap that works so well...why look at other crap?

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I agree with Sandy here. The rockers on a Slant are not a weak part. I've made thousands of passes with Slant powered cars and so far the only rocker issues I've had are when my high zoot rollers have killed pushrods. My good motor has been faster than 90% of the Slants on the planet with an $85 set of RAS rebuilt stockers. They didn't even want a set of cores back.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

By oiling thru the push rod using AMC lifters and hollow push rods.

_________________
Slant Cecil

Thats the way to do it if you where bent on going this route, although you would spend more money than it would take for a good set of T&D,s.

The shaft setup will run rings around the stud setup. people that have stud setups are always spending big bucks to get to shaft setup. Rollers are not much benefit as far as power. Ratio is really the only reason you have for even changing the slant rocker arm. Yes there is a little less friction with roller which could help wear in a high RPM application more than anything, but with slant rocker setups lasting 2 to 400 thou miles its hard to beat them.


You can mess around with pushrod lenth, and shaft height and get a better ratio out of the stock arms. True valve lift at the valve has measured only 1.4 ratio on four different engines I have checked. Some say they are around 1.4.7 :1 but after lash and pushrod angles you only get 1.4 ratio worth of lift at the valve. So you can expect X size camshaft to be alot smaller than it advertises to be. Take this into account when grinding a cam and give it the most aggressive lobes it can have and your ready. The srings will still live because the 1.4 ration is making it easy on them even with a aggressive lobe.



Unless you already have a set of stud rollers, by the time you get them working I bet you will spend what it takes to get a good setup, plus the time involved, plus possible bad rocker geometry with the nightmare of trying to keep them from spitting out the pushrod at high RPM from it being a stud setup.



Jess

Well, reason for this conversation is that the parts I accounted for and an extra 10% of cost is still cheaper than the T&D kit. The hope was to get the cost low enough where I could do a write up cause a few people have wanted these as well as I but don't have the money.
I read through and see now that the shafts are superior. However, I still don't follow the same lines as they do. Were building sixes that don't see but the high side of 400hp, but the big block they were comparing does 7000rpm. The next build I'm doing will call for some sort of Roller Rocker, and in my expirence they (along with the ratios) help dramatically. I would agree it's harder to notice as in Slantzilla's case cause the slant does have a good design. So this is still up in the air, how would the oiling happen. This is probably a general question but would putting T bars in where the oil cam up through the shaft to spray in the rollers work? Also, people haven't addressed the issue that oiling was a problem with the old design. I havent see (or can afford) the new T&D's yet, also if this really falls through I would like to try casting a set and heat treating them, I'm just worried they won't hold up as billet one's will.
So to reiterate, this option so far is cheaper. It should give you rollers with better ratios. I think I conquered the oiling problem with a) idea metioned above (could you hone more down the engine/year that would come out of?) b) spraying oil that would come up through into the shaft with squirters that would send oil to needed area. Thanks for all ideas and input.

And how do you get oil into the lifters?

_________________
Joshua

So yeah the oiling shouldn't be a major problem especially now that i remembered that the oil comes from one major perch. So I can essentially build an oiling system not far from what Doug had to do for his roller rockers from this spicket. The oiling will drip over the main bearing and the end bearings. I haven't done studs for a while so I assume that dripping oil will work, any thoughts against this? Jeep 4.0L's have stud rockers that will be longer than the sbc and some one did a conversion on a 4.0 with big block rockers so I have a couple options.

Is there enough meat in the head to hold the studs?

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.