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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:11 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:30 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Cary, North Carolina, USA
Car Model:
Hi gang,

I've searched the forums but don't see any topics that are quite like the problem I have...

Car:
1973 Dodge Dart Swinger Special
225 CID, Manual 3, no a/c, no power anything

I drove to work yesterday morning. When I went to fire up for the evening commute, it wouldn't start. No noise, no clicking, nada. Secondary electrical components function (e.g, running, signal and interior lights, instruments and gauges, heater fan, radio and wiper motor...all work).

I poked under dash and reconnected a lead to the door/seatbelt warning buzzer that had been disconnected for years. Tried again and the ignition fired and I got the car started. Once home, I shut off the engine and immediately tried to restart. The ignition again was dead.

Working today, I sometimes could crank the engine but mostly it would not. I played with various elements in secondary electrical (disconnect/reconnect the buzzer lead, hold down the horn [after disconnecting it's lead ;) ]) and sometimes I'd get a crank but mostly not.

The car had been sitting for years until I pulled it out a few months ago.
The battery, electronic ignition control and ballast resistor are new.

Thoughts on this one?
Am I looking at a faulty ignition switch or should I look elsewhere?

Thanks in advance!
Lin


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 6:48 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:48 pm
Posts: 570
Car Model:
Does it have a neutral-saftey switch? If it does, I'd check it next.

Danny


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 7:00 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
I think in 1973 they had a seat belt interlock with the ignition. The idea was you could not start the car if your seatbelt was not on and fastened. That would not be the first place to look, but keep it in mind. After a few years the feds wised up and removed that reg.

This could be an ignition switch, a neutral saftey switch, or a starter relay perhaps. Maybe even a bad battery cable clamp.

Sam

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 1:55 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:04 am
Posts: 337
Location: Western Maryland
Car Model:
I have that problem in my 66 valiant.

seems like all I have to do is get out and rap on the starter a few times and it will crank again.

C

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-76 Cordoba, 360 4bbl
-68 Valiant, 273 2bbl
-67 Dart /6 4bbl, Leaning Tower of Power!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 2:59 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:48 pm
Posts: 351
Location: PDX, OR
Car Model:
it sounds more of a battery or terminal problem, if you got lights, but no crank, check the starter as well. and you have to tap the starter to get it to go, its bad for sure

_________________
'72 Valiant DD for over a decade-225-Disc brakes, big T-bars, big Sway bars f/r, carter bbd/super six, GM HEI, 2- 12" subs in trunk, 1000w amp...
'77 cherokee cheif widetrack-360-33x12.5 tires-no lift. keeps driveway dry-project/backup DD/mudder


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:02 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:30 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Cary, North Carolina, USA
Car Model:
Hi folk,

Problem solved.

It turned out to be a faulty clutch starter switch, the manual trans equal to a neutral safety switch (thanks 65Dodge100 !).

It looks like mother Mo didn't intend for this part to be replaced. It's actually bonded and clamped to the pedal arm with metal tabs, and spare parts searches came up empty. According to the wiring scheme, this switch is normally open so I disabling it by running a wire to ground from it's connection on the starter relay. Engine starts every time, now.

Thanks for all the suggestions. You guys saved me a lot of head scratching!


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