Hey Guys~
I was removing the old water pump from my A100 225 when I twisted the head off the last bolt I've tried a vice-grip...channel locks.
This only meshed the threads. I'm trying not break off the remaining bolt...or I'll be using the "EASY OUT"(easy off?). My next step would be to heat it up and put a pipe wrench on it(big teeth)~grip!

Anybody have any good ideas here?

Thank You! Buzzin Half Dozen

Hello!

Wrung off studs and bolt are as common as iron in good ole slants. My take may differ from the other slanters, but I don't even waste time any more with any thing other than drilling it out and re tapping, regardless of where it is. I use left hand thread drills. When you replace the removed object, use antiseize. Drench the stub with something like "Knock er loose" and let it work overnight, first.

You don't need to be scratching the machined face of the block where the pump sits, and you stand an excellent chance of scratching it or a head, for that matter, if doing a stud by grabbing the remnant and trying to rotate it with a gripping device. Your device would have to be absolutely parallel with the face of the block to avoid a gouge with your gripper as it rotates.

If you have never drilled one out, it is a skill you may want to develop. Practice it on some kind of junk you either chisel off a bolt from or wring one off in. Lots of discussion re technique in the "Search" here, and the drill and tap doesn't even take 1/2 hour.

rock
'64d100

I like to use my cutoff tool. Its easyer to start the drill bit on the flat surface.
Caution though as Rock says BE CAREFUL when cutting off the stud or bolt.
I dont have heat available so this is my only good option.
My02
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Use a punch to locate the pilot hole, then use a little drill bit to pilot for a bigger bit. Take your time. Breathe in breathe out.

Have an arc or MIG welder? If there is enuf of a stub hanging out to try to grab with a pipe wrench or maybe Vise grips then there is enuf to weld a nut onto that same stub so you can try to take that bolt out the conventional way with a socket. Don't worry about mashed/twisted/lack of thread. For these purposes it won't hurt to grab, say a 3/8"(thread size) nut to slip over a 5/16" diameter stub. The only thing is that you need to be sure to get good penetration so the nut doesn't twist off easier than the bolt broke the 1st time. I don't have any sort of luck with the drill it out and retap method. Even if I do grind the end flush it seems I can NEVER get the drilled hole exactly centered and I drill a bit into the casting; the only time this works is if when I drill and the digging action of the bit grabs the stub and works it loose. This is especially true on something that I don't have 100% free, clear, and unobstructed access to the area

And a right-angle drill chuck adaptor similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-22-8 ... B000BYEJ02


Or a right-angle cordless like this:
http://www.oneplustools.com/drill/p240

can make it a lot easier to get in tight spots.

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Use Kriol on the threads. It works like magic! even on broken off taps.

I use stainless steel bolts with Never sieze compound. That way they don't rust in place.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

This was on a 1974 Dodge 360V8, but might be relevant.

I snapped the heads off the bolts trying to remove the water pump at 120k miles - nothing, but nothing worked to get them out. I finially cut the water pump to pieces from around the bolts.

I found the bolts (sans pump) were finger loose in the block - the pump had been made with holes significantly SMALLER than the bolts' diameter - the factory had forced those bolts in there, stretching the metal of the (aluminum alloy) water pump. After I had the pump (pieces) off, the metal relaxed and the bolt wouldn't even fit in the remaining half-cylindrical groove.

My parts place even took back the various pump fragments as core w/o complaint. It had been a family car since new, so I knew the pump was factory. If you're in the same bolt, get out your chisels. Good Luck!

I VERY strongly second this. for a while I thought I was the only one who even knew about this stuff. I have a gallon can in my garage for the sole purpose of using on old bolts a couple days before removing. If the fasteners are salvageable they always get antisieze or threadlocker...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

That is not an uncommon problem with small block Mopars, and 302 Fords. You are lucky, you didn't have to butcher the timing cover. The steel bolts freeze in the aluminum timing cover and/or water pump, not in the steel block. Been there, done that many times.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225