OK, here's what I've got. I had the slant in my 82 pickup re-built with a Comp Cams K64-247-4 cam kit. I also had larger valves installed (1.70 / 1.44). I also swapped from a 1bbl setup to a 2bbl setup (manual trans so no kick down linkage issues).
Now that I'm fianlly around to trying to get it running, I can't get it to idle smoothly. Since I needed the exhaust repaired anyway, I had it towed to my mechanic for some exhaust work and to see if he could get it running better. Well, he tells me he had to back the rocker arm shaft mounting bolts off about 2-3 full turns to get the engine to smooth out. Since the rockers are stamped steel and non-adjustable, what are my options? Will adjustable rockers off a previous model year work? Should I be getting shorter push rods? I'm guessing with having to back off the mounting bolts that much, rocker spacers or a thicker head gasket aren't really options.
If I need to go with shorter push rods, do I just have my old ones cut down, or is there someplace to buy new ones?
Thanks,
John

One other quick question, just on the off chance, I know it makes a difference on the oiling, but what if I screwed up and put the rocker shaft on backwards? Would that cause the problem?

Sounds like too much lifter preload is causing some valves not to close completely. The best way to fix that is shorter pushrods. Adjustable rockers won't work as there is no provision in those rockers to oil the lifters. Putting the rocker shaft in backwards might starve the valve gear for oil, but then it would be noisy.

What I would do is get an adjustable pushrod so you can determine the proper length. Adjust the pushrod so it just takes up the slack and add to that length the amount of preload Comp Cams says to use with their lifters. Then send the pushrod to Smith Bors (www.pushrods.net) and have them make you a set.

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Joshua

Thanks for the info. Sounds like I'll have to get someone to help me determine the correct length pushrods. I can't afford to do this too many times.

I know it's been a while, but finally figured out the problem. I had another thread going about tunability and vacuum leaks were suggested. Well, turns out it's a little trickier getting the Dutra Dual exhaust lined up properly to allow the intake and exhaust to seal up properly. Took me three tries, but it appears I have it now. Still gotta fine tune the choke a bit more, but I think I have the timing and idle set pretty close. Oh yeah, with all the leaks and stuff, I went ahead and put in a new set of plugs afterwards and that helped even more.
Now I gotta get my power steering box leak fixed (input shaft seal).

I love this old slant 6 truck. With the 3.55 gears and the 4 speed manual w/OD, I can spin the tires if I want and should still get decent mileage on the highway. A few more things to do like the above mentioned repair before I drive it very much. But if I could get 20MPG highway out of an old 76 Aspen wagon with the Super Six and 3 speed auto, I would hope I can achive similar with this truck if not better.

OK, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm trying to get back on this thing.
Seems to run fairly well once warmed up. However, here's what I've got going on.
From info gleaned from this site, I discovered the 2bbl Carter I purchased from a rebuilder in AZ actually sent me one for a 318, not a slant. Got a proper carb for a slant. Got the parts to do the HEI upgrade, but want to get the engine running right first.
Here's my problem, my vacuum signal at idle kind of jumps around a bit from 15-17 in. I had brand new exhaust put on from the manifold on back including the muffler. Spray testing with carb cleaner around the carb base and intake-head surface doesn't reveal any leaks. However, I get a whistling noise from my PCV as the ball jumps all over the place.
Fuel economy sucks as well (only 10-12, actually worse than my 82 1-ton 4wd). Would really like to start driving this on a regular basis and park the 1-ton.
Any advice on what to check next would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John

I would check the hose on your pcv if you are hearing a whistle that is a leak and from what I have always been told the ball inside is suposed to bounce in there if not it means it is plugged

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Nothing beats a slant six
1987 D150

There is no ball in the PCV valve, but there is a shuttle. It should not be bouncing; if it is doing so, it's because your vacuum is fluctuating, which accords with what you've seen on your vacuum gauge. 17 inches of vacuum is not enough — I think you have a vacuum leak, and given the difficulty you had getting things to seal, I suspect you may need a new manifold-to-head gasket. It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions. Are you running an aluminum or iron intake?

I kinda cringe to have to bring this up, but how certain are you that Comp sent you the cam you actually needed, wanted, and ordered? On numerous occasions they have sent wrong camshafts (solid-lifter cams for hydraulic-lifter engines, hydraulic-lifter cams for solid-lifter engines, grinds other than what was ordered, etc.) and even if you catch their screwup, they tend to deny it or try and cover it up — they've gone so far as to tell people there's really no difference between solid and hydraulic cams.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm running an aluminum 2bbl intake.
As far as the cam goes, I had the machine shop that did the work install it and degree it. I put the head and manifolds on. The paperwork shows the cam I had them put in and I have no reason to doubt this outfit as they have a pretty good reputation around town.
So, I need to try replacing my manifold gaskets again, huh? At least I've had some practice at it so it doesn't take as long as my first time (only time bragging about that sort of thing is a good thing. ).
I'll have to try ordering some of those gaskets. Kind of expensive, but if they work better, they'll be worth it.

Which aluminum 2bbl are you running? Is it the kind that has a prominent weld bead at the upper perimeter of each runner, and a slightly reverse-curved #4 runner? Or is it the sandcast type with a perfectly straight #4 runner?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'll have to double check in the morning, but I believe it's the one with the prominent weld bead.
Is one known to have more problems than the other?

Yes The welded one is know to have leaks. That being said you can fix the leak with epoxy sometimes.

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Well, with decent weather again and finally a free weekend, I'm back it this. Putting a proper slant 6 BBD on had definitely helped the plugs. Not nearly so dirty or carboned up anymore. I hosed down the entire intake manifold with carb cleaner and can't find any spots that make any change in engine RPM like there was a leak.
I decided to do a compression test for whatever that would be worth. How should I interpret my findings?

#1 ~ 122 psi
#2 ~ 137 psi
#3 ~ 137 psi
#4 ~ 130 psi
#5 ~ 122 psi
#6 ~ 129 psi

You look fine on your compression readings. No Problem there.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered