Hi Dan, The IGN is running to Ballast. Should it be there? Should it be on "HOT" side with key just to on position? My diagram shows it there but does not specify "HOT" or "OUT". Thanks Ed

Which side of the ballast resistor is the regulator's IGN terminal connected to? Pull both terminals off the ballast resistor. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position. Whichever of the two ballast resistor wires has line voltage, that's the one that should be connected to the voltage regulator.

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Hi Dan, wire from IGN is in right place. I will go pick up a regulator tommorrow. I want to thank you so much for all of your time and advice. I also want to thank all that have given us tips,advice and the time to help with this issue. We will keep you updated. Thanks again, Ed & Jeremy

Hi everyone, latest update. I installed a new Volt reg today. Same problem multimeter registers 11.4 when idle. I switched back "BAT" wire from Alternator to "BAT" connection at starter relay. Wire,according to shop manual, should be hooked up to bulkhead connector "B". Now I have 13.4 at idle and 14.5+ at about 1000rpms. So I am now getting correct charge but wire is not where it should be. My stock gauge still registers discharge but I get alot more movement to charge side. Dan is right I have alot more wire tracing to do because gauge in car should be in + side. I'll keep everyone updated as I go. Any thoughts on it possibly being the ignition switch? Thanks everyone we never would have gotten this far without you all. Much appreciated Ed & Jeremy

D'oh! Where are you picking up this 11.4v reading? Across what two points?
OK. When you connect the alternator's output (B+, BAT) stud to the starter relay's largest threaded-stud terminal, you're connecting the alternator's output directly to the battery. That's because there's a wire that runs from that large terminal on the starter relay, down to the large terminal on the starter, and that's where the battery positive cable connects. There's nothing the matter with this, electrically — it just means your ammeter gauge will not register charging current. I'm beginning to wonder about the health of your new/used replacement ammeter...and, as you say, the wiring.

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Hi Dan, I have this little voltage gauge that plugs into lighter socket. I know probably not the best tool but it does work. Along with my multimeter the current register the same. About the wire going to BAT on relay my gauge does move as I drive. It just doesn't go into charge side but it moves quite a bit. I just noticed also that when I brake the gauge in car moves quite abit to discharge. There is a wire that junctions with Black lead to Amp gauge in car, that I'm sure are there to register a pull on current. I wonder if lighting wires or switch may be the culprit. I can't get over how wiring the correct way, BAT on ALT to bulkhead slot causes car not to charge properly. I checked this with multi + my little socket tool. As soon as I moved wire to relay VIOLA meter registered 13.5 to 14.5. This one is puzzling me to no end. Thanks ED

Yeah, with the alternator connected directly to battery (via relay terminal), your ammeter will register discharge, but not charge.

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Hi Dan, The gauge in car does go towards charge direction as rpms go up. It just doesn't go past middle line. If I turn lights on it goes to 1st line in discharge at idle but as I bring up rpms it goes almost halfway back to middle line. weird. Thanks Ed

Anything left of centre is the discharge zone. Anything to the right of centre is the charge zone...as far as the ammeter is concerned. What you are seeing is normal for how you have the system hooked up at the moment.

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Hi Dan, Thanks again for all the info. I am going to take a break from wires for a day or two since theres more wires than I have hair now. I picked up a spare amp gauge today and I am going to use it to wire just inside of engine bay to bypass certain parts to see if I can narrow down issue.. I'll keep you updated. Thanks again for all the info and time. Ed & Jeremy

Ed,

In your travels through the wiring harness, did you trace where the other wire from the ammeter goes?

What bugs me is that someone bypassed your ammeter, then they bypassed the entire dash harness.

I’m thinking they had a charging problem and by-passed the ammeter. That didn’t fix it so they ran the alternator wire to the starter relay. What ever problem they had, you still have. That’s why hooking the wires back up won’t fix it.

Danny

Hi Danny, Yes I traced other wire. It is the red wire,large, that enters from slot marked Z, on wiring diagram, out of bulkhead connector under dash. In engine bay side of bulkhead connector it is a dark blue wire with tracer that goes to starter relay. I am really leaning towards the starter relay or bulkhead connector. There is one discrepancy though. On wiring diagram where large red wire connects to amp gauge it calls for a red with tracer wire to access circuit breaker. There already is a red with tracer wire coming from fuse block and intersects with the Black wire that goes to other connector on gauge. Do you think I should run another wire from red point on gauge to same spot on fuse block as other red with tracer? Thanks for your time. Ed & Jeremy

Ed,

I don’t have a wiring diagram for your car and I don’t know what that extra wire from the ammeter is. I don’t think it has anything to do with charging, though.

I don’t think the problem would be the starter relay as long as that original wire is connected to the same place that the alternator wire is now. All it has to do it touch the wire going to the battery. When the alternator BAT wire goes to the ammeter, it’s destination is still the starter relay. It is only making a loop through the ammeter instead of straight from the alternator.

We already know that it will charge if the wire is continuous to the starter relay. (That’s how you have it wired now.) You’ll have to check the continuity of the wires to and from the ammeter.

You could also by-pass the ammeter again to rule out a faulty gauge if that’s easier. And/or run a new temporary wire from the ammeter to the starter relay.

Do you know how to do voltage drop testing? This link is for checking starter cables but it’s the same for the wires you are working on.

Danny

If the wiring to the bulkhead connector was changed, it is possible that it was because the connectors overheated and were ruined. In that case, unless you replace the connectors (and the plastic in the connector has not been melted), it will not make a good enough connection.

There are usually 3 wires hooked to the amp gauge on the cars that I have seen. The only wire that should be connected to the plus side of the gauge is the wire from the alt. If there is another wire connected to this terminal, the gauge will not show that current.

I don't have a '66 here, but I can go look at a '66 Valiant for the exact route if you can't get this sorted out. If you get really stuck, you could drive it up to me and I'll fix it.

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Hi Chuck, Thank you so much for the offer. I will try to do more testing by this weekend. I''l keep everyone updated. I don't see any signs of a meltdown at bulkhead. If I can't figure out how can I contact you to take a look. Thanks again its very kind of you to offer. Also I want to thank again everyone for all of the time and effort that has been put in to help us out. Ed & Jeremy