I fitted the idle control valve up. It works, but is too small - It only lifts rpm by about 200 or so when it is fully open. It's off a 1.8L Toyota, so I guess that sort of makes sense.

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wow... I have to say, this is one of the NICEST EFI setups I've seen for ANY conversion. I had something very similar in mind for when I convert my Dart.

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1966 Dart GT
1968 F250
2004 Dodge SRT-4

You did an awesome job with this setup.

Any updates?

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DynoDave
1970 Plymouth Duster
1972 Dodge Charger Rallye
1977 Chrysler Cordoba
WPC # 12304

Looks can be deceiving...

After 6 months of EFI slantyness it's a mixed bag.

Pro: Super smooth, super responsive, fantastic to drive
Con: Flawed injector placement, cold starting is so-so (it's winter here), mileage is meh

I think the fundamental problem with my setup for city driving is the injector placement. In a nutshell I believe the injectors are too far away from the combustion chambers, and they fire straight down onto the intake runner floor. I think this is far from ideal when you have low charge-flow speed situations (i.e. starting and idle) through the manifold. I think that what is happening is that when the injector fires, it pretty much just puddles on the runner floor. I need to run the idle and low RPM maps very rich to get the driveability I want, which in turn kills the economy. Tune it so the AFR look good and she is a pig to drive. Fatten her up down low and it's a completely different story. I have chosen to make her drive well, given that I put 200miles/week on her commuting, so am living with the poor fuel economy (16-17mpg). I think this setup would be awesome for performance/high-speed work, but is not ideally suited for 5-15% throttle. Anything aboive that and the injector placement helps with good atomisation, which is good.

Where to from here? Well just last week I sat down with my mate and started planning Slant EFI v2.0. I will be ditching the existing manifold/tb/air-filter set up and replacing it with a HyperPak and 4BBL TB. The injectors and fuel-rail from the existing setup will be re-used, only this time the injectors will be closer to the head and angled to point to the valve. I've got everything I need except for the cable kick down required, so it should be reasonably straight forward.

So there you have it. I've learned a lot, and I think that will only help me moving forward. It's important to remember to put my criticisms into context: Everyone who has driven her has been impressed (even non car guys), but I think I can do better. When I get back from vacation in early August I'll start on the hyperpak - stay tuned!

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VE Safari - Have you had any success in the 2.0 conversion?
Just out of curiosity wanted to know how far you are with it.

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Mopar or no car.

Bye the way, who the F**K is Tu Ning?

Trying to find data on cam timings, manifold dimensions, etc on the various E specifications - having trouble finding any but the occasional and vague references in general articles!

This has been a great thread, and most interesting to keep tabs on. I can agree with your experiences very much. Your pros and cons coincide with mine for the most part. I definately have the same cold start situation, but have not narrowed it down to fuel. I have a new tank going in soon, which will eliminate the surge tank.

I also agree with your tuning findings. Economy is only so-so if tuned for power. For the most part, this parallels my findings when playing with carbs. The best carbs for power produced pretty poor economy. I got over 20 always with my Carter BBD. When I put on a stromberg from a 65 318, the car felt like a V-8 but the economy dropped to 15 MPG. The very best mileage was an economaster one barrel. It gave over 25 routinely, but really was a dog in the performance department.

So it seems that EFI is no magic bullet. However, you could change tunings more easily with EFI if you had several different maps for different operating preferences. I don;t see a way to change the tuning preferences without getting the lap top out though. There is a device you can get to change the feedback from your O2 sensor by turning a knob, and thereby lean it out on the fly. Just some thoughts there.

Keep us informed. I am especially interested in your start up tuning. Share with us the pulse width during crank at different temps if you would please. What size injectors are you running?

Sam

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That was meant to be a new thread - I ACTUALLY wanted to ask in this:

Are you using the distributor or an ecu controlled ignition system?

i think we can get the cold start a lot better when we swap over to a ford 3/4" idle motor, that will give us a good range of 1000rpm to idle up when cold if we wanted it to,

at the moment the injector angle and small idle valve is not helping at all,

ill get started on the hyperpack in the next week or so, once the injector pockets are in then it is just a matter of making a new fuel rail and some throttle and kick down linkages

i think the new injectors he has are 400cc but i would have to double check, the current ones are 305cc toyot starlet ones i had lying around in the shed,

what ecu are you running?? the microtech does things a lot different to most of the ecus out there,

Dale

Wow - it's been a while since I've posted here. Things have progressed a little recently.







I hope to have it all on the car with a new cylinder head in the next few weeks.

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awesome work

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1966 Dart GT
1968 F250
2004 Dodge SRT-4

VF- What manner of piston & combustion chamber have you in your SL6?
Are you aware of the "quench" principle where-in the pistontop stops appx.
.030 to .050 from(a flat portion of) the combust. chamber,squeezing the mixture into the rest of the c.chamber/flame front at great velocity.This burns
quickly & completly yielding more power,less emissions, less tendancy to ping/detonate,cooler running and more m.p.g..Unfortunatly the original SL6 piston( .180 down the hole)and chamber (wide open,lot of 'dead' area waiting to 'ping') was never modernized and SL6 enthusiasts are only now trying to upgrade this on a meaningful scale.
My point is now that youv'e installed a superior fuel delivery system perhaps
further upgrades are warranted in order to realise the full potential of your EFI
SL6 Warren@PDX.com

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"Faith in Science"

The new head has been shaved 050" and had some mild clean up of the combustion chambers and short side radius, nothing major at all. The rest of the engine is stock, save for the headers and MSD. This car is my daily driver and spends a lot of time in traffic, with the occasional road trip. Looking at my mileage logs I've put on 12,000miles since converting to EFI last year at an average of 17.1mpg - I would say 90% of these miles would be in commuter traffic, so a docile and tractable engine is more important to me than a strip performer.

Having said that, I am building another car whose motor I think would make much more use of this new intake setup. Unfortunately I don't have the funds to convert that car to EFI as well, otherwise i would. She will be running an aggressive cam, 10:1 or so comp + 390 Holley.

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Nice work, you and I look to be the only ones going down this rabbit hole, it will be interesting to see exactly what happens with this manifold with EFI... Personally I think you're taking the right steps, I wouldn't worry about Warren's comments, if you make too many experimental changes to an engine at once with a lot of unknowns sorting out the problems and what are causing them might kill off what would be considered 'too much of a good thing'... I already have my fuel map and spark map plotted based on what I know from daily driving a hyper pak slant for my EFI setup, and have had to be very conservative in making some guesses about what that setup will do when it hits the ram tuning stage on a dry vs. wet manifold...

Good luck and keep after it,

-D.Idiot

Make sure the fuel rail tabs are STRONG, the fuel pressure will pop the rail off the injector if the mounting is weak.

Cheers, Wizard