Here is what I'm working with:
Daily driver 73 /6 duster with factory A/C, alternator type unknown, 22" radiator with fan shroud, 3 speed wipers.

I've installed:
50 watt amp powering 2 8" subs, pioneer cd player, autometer mini tach

Mods to wiring:
Ammeter bypass, rebuilt bulkhead connector, headlight relays, new headlight harness

I'm all about making the old slant run efficient as possible and I'm incorporating all of the best ideas from all over, so modification is just a given.

I'm planning on installing an electric fan setup (to keep it a little cooler and free up some HP) and the GM HEI upgrade (to take out the ballast resistor and some old wiring) in the next couple of weeks and I'm looking for some insight on gotcha's that I might run into.

I've read that the HEI unit pulls far more power from the system than the mopar ecu and I've surmised that the electric fan will put me over the top as far as what the wiring charging/system will be able to handle.
I know this might be causing a domino effect but lay it on me, I'd rather know now than after its all installed.
Thanks
Matt

I think you will need a higher output alt. I installed a 110 amp one wire GM unit which has worked well for upgrading the power. Dan had a link somewhere on the forum(do a search) for adapting the GM unit to the Mopar bracket. I made one, but plan on eventualy replacing my home brew fab with a nicer, more precision one.

You are definately on the right track.

Sam

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8" subs are way to small!

I am running a stock dual field alt from an 85 5th ave (60 amp I think) with the stock electronic voltage regulator, this should be what your 73 has stock. I am pushing a 250 watt sony amp in to 2 12" subs. I regularly have a 400 watt inverter plugged in to power a laptop. I did not bypass the factory 63 ammeter, I just ran heavier wire to it, and from it. I crank the engine till oil pressure shows, so when I allow it to start there is a heavy charge for the first few minutes, even then with the stereo thumping I have never had a problem. The key is to make sure every connection in the electrical system is clean and tight. Corrosion is your enemy.

Now when I was running the stock (for my 63) 40 amp single field alt system, at night when the bass hit at idle, the lights did dim a bit.

Mother Mopar engineered our cars well, the few things that weren't engineered well are easy to fix. The bulkhead connector is thew only thing that comes to mind in the charging system. GM parts are best left in the junkyard, or if you really insist, I suppose GM owners could use them.

TopHat

Sorry, not trying to hijack, but I don't get the need for all that base. I may be 47 but I still crank my Robin Trower "Bridge of Sighs" CD and I just don't get it when I'm at a stop light and the guy next to me has such a powerfull system not only his windows rattle but mine too.

Can you explain it to me?

Getting old I guess

Someone told the window rattler it was cool, and he believed it.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

It is so irritating

And odds are a system that loud was stolen. At least in the locations that I usually hear a system like that...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Every since I was young (I'm 41) I have had "overkill" stereos in my cars. Why such a big bass box? Because I like it. Yes I can rattle my windows, but I doubt it will rattle the windows on the car next to me.

TopHat

I like my system to sound good without making my ears bleed and my wallet empty..... back in the day my 75 duster had 2 MTX blue thunder 10's, 2 RF 12s, 4 jbl 6x9s and was running about 900 or so watts.... and I'm talking metallica NOT vanilla ice.... but that was before I had any kids and mortgage and noise ordinance violation tickets..

anyway, I have since installed an alt from a 86 chrysler something and it handles the stereo, 2 speed fan(tested only but not installed yet), headlights and wipers without dropping below 13.2 v at the battery.. woot woot... and with all of the stuff off it runs about 13.89 at idle and 14.80 when I rev it up. I also installed a second wire from the alt to the battery and added a new sensing wire for the voltage regulator as it was charging at almost 16v before I added the new sensing wire

When you are tempted to shake your head in amazement at sound sytems in cars you can hear a block away, just keep in mind it is a competitive thing, just like horsepower and racing. That's what makes it make sense. How much speed do you need? How much horsepower do you need? Outside of the competitive arena, you only need about 100 hp and to be able to keep up with traffic on the interstate, which is about 80MPH at the fastest.

Why do we want more HP and want to go faster? There are people who shake their heads in disbelief at us. We do it to beat the other guy. That's why they put big sound in their cars. Attend a sound competition sometime, and it will explain a lot.

Sam

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I am pushing 2 Visonik 12" subs with a 250W Sony amp, 2 Pioneer 5X7 2 ways, and 2 4" pioneer 2 ways, Sony headunit. I have a toggle in the sub box so I can turn it on and off whenever I want. I have less then $500 in the whole system. I also had 2 6X9 Infinity stock Mopar speakers hooked up, but I blew those up pretty quick.

Any given time I can be heard playing a large variety of music. Stuff like The
Grateful Dead, The Stray Cats, Cadillac Don, old NWA, AC/DC, Charlie Daniels, and once in a while some Iron Maiden or Megadeath.

I don't have it to be cool or impress anyone, I have it because I like it.

Oh BTW to get back on the topic of this thread, I just added an electric cooling fan with the new engine. The factory dual field alt is still powering everything just fine, though I may decide to bypass the factory ammeter for an after market one soon, just to have numbers to know better where everything is at.

TopHat

You can also collapse your lungs with too much bass. It happened to my nephew, and put him in the hospital.

Loud music lung collapse warning

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

You can get a 78 amp alternator that looks like and mounts like any other dual field, "squareback" Mopar alternator. Look up most any 79-87 Mopar RWD car or truck application.

I will admit at a stop light the unecessary bass that cuts through is annoying. Just like some inconsiderate hot rodders (reving engines all hours of the night, endagering others in street races etc...) that give us a bad image. You shouldn't be prejudice against all "sound" enthusists. Not all sound enthusists are inconsiderate, I'm not, nor would you ever know in everyday driving what power may be lurking.

In 1995 I was partner in a large (15,000 sq feet) auto service facility. I hired a parts manager who was in a club (low riders with sound systems). None of them were into drugs and all had ligitmate jobs. I sponsered them and let them work on their vehicles in our shop. I started to go to the meets (unfortunately most were won by drug dealers - with way more money) and began installs myself. They won quite a few meets. The fact that they were into something (other than gangs and drugs), took pride in what they built, were competitve and off the streets of Chicago was something to admire in itself.

So I'd have to agree with Sam in so many words "live and let live".
I'd also disagree with the disapproval of 8" sub woofers. It's the brains not the brawn in sound systems. One more thing, it is (was) SPL's (sound pressure levels) not loud music that can do the most damage-lungs, bleeding ears etc...
Dale

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1964 Dodge Polara 2dr HT /6 3spd man.

Points taken. And as I said I crank up my "Bridge of Sighs" CD or whatever else I have in myself as well.

I just thought it was all part of the craze to get the biggest system and then rattle neighboring cars' windows at stop lights.

i have been schooled and apologize.