I just took apart a BBS and the Bendix/Stromberg carb and I can see where these have the advantage over the holleys (the BBS is fully disassemblable and has no blind passages/sealed metering block)... The stromberg is even more simple and it looks like it was designed to be able to knock the main venturi out and change it and increase the CFM rating with no major hassle... too bad there's not a kit with these major assembly parts in it...

LOL...

-D.Idiot

SL6Dan,

Could you help us out?

Thank you for looking up the specs.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

holley 1920 ain't the best one barrel around, is just the one maker that casted one barrels for more time and the parts avalibility kicks ass around the world. Go try'n find a needle for any carter carburetor outside the states and say 3 or 4 more countries: you're screwed up! the stromberg carb is WAY better than BBS's and Holleys. Now that I think about it, I've seen a lot of US made 1 barrel holleys with the detachable steel throttle base (that will be like you say about the BBS, fully accesible passages and such)

Anyway ain't a big dealie to pop some plugs, clean and repop close on a 1920... I'm amazed at how guys wich such an experience in fiddling with way more complicated mechanich issues frown their foreheads when it's time for poppin' and cleanin metering blocks and carbs.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Well said Juan!:D

It isn't that hard to do!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

If possible, it would be nice to see some pictures of these modifications on the 1920's. You know, what plugs to pull, what to do once they are out, etc.

I agree. It would be nice to See some of this. Guys You are doing a Great Job with this thread. THANKS
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Juan,

I had the Economaster off this past weekend and drilled the potted over idle bleed hole with a #65 drill bit.
When I fired it up my normal 750 rpm idle went to 400 rpm. Now you can hear the transfer slot working very easily. It sounds like a huge water large water fall in there. I was running with the idle mixture screw at 5.5 turns and I roughly set it at 2.5 turns. It sounds and feels good cold no bog, but after driving 70 miles this morning to work, it was very warm and acted very differently. It feels like a hicup or very slight bog. It may still be too rich. I am thinking I need to open the hole up a little more? or lean out the idle mixture screw some more.
I am not quite sure yet. The throttle is way more responsive now and hard to hold still. Any slight pressure change on the gas pedal makes the car respond right away. I am having to learn how to drive all over again. That little change made a huge difference in the way the engine responds.

I will play with it on the way home tonight to see what it wants.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

H'mmmm. You may want to try drilling a vacuum calibration hole:



This hole is for calibration of the power valve and vacuum advance. Some carburetors have it and others don't, but once it's there if you don't want it any more it's easy to plug...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ted, I've found that turning that little screw even a little has big effects on idle and throttle response. My engine still has kind of an uneven idle, but it seems like it wants to run all day at 70+ with no problems. It also pings slightly on steep hills now...though it dosn't on long freeway grades at speed. Maybe time to futz around with the distributer springs again....

Eric,

I have noticed the same thing that the idle air bleed has a huge! effect on idle quality. This Economaster carb I have (12R-7610 for 1968-72) has never had a normal idle mixture screw setting. It has always been very fat 5 or more turns to get it to idle smoothly because the idle air bleed was potted over.
Opening it up with the #65 drill really kicked the emulsion circuit in gear.

That little brass screw your adjusting is the idle air bleed adjuster. I am not sure yet where it should be set. All I know is that by opening it up some with the .035 #65 drill has made it run richer. Need to figure out the next tuning steps...............

I will take a picture tonight of the brass adjuster and send it to Dan.

What size main jet are you using now?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

A #58.

Eric,

I sent the pics to Dan last night. He should give us a heads up soon on the brass idle air bleed screw. On all the 1920 carbs I have, there seems to be a large well at the top, but in all reality you can't push any wire or drill bit in the idle air bleed location. It seems that Holley has plugged them off.

Now that I have opened up the idle air bleed Juan is suggesting that I try going up two sizes on the jet to balance everything out. If it isn't raining too hard tonight, I will pop in a #60 and see what happens.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Yup, I definitely think this screw you're showing me is the Holley 1920 version of the Carter BBS factory-adjustable idle air bypass, not originally intended for field adjustment and so plugged off after adjustment on the production line.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,
Do you have any books with specs on what this adjustment should be

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

It's not a question of specs. This screw was adjusted "live" (dynamically) on a flow bench at the end of the carburetor assembly line. It was not intended for field adjustment once the carb was built and out the door.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.