Here's an easy one for you guys:

Can someone tell me for sure (or tell me how to find out) if the lifters in a 1970 225 are solid or hydraulic? I'm constantly told they're hydraulic, but it sounds almost identical to the L6 of similar size in my truck (Land Cruiser), which has solid lifters.

Just want to make absolutely sure, since the valves in this thing need to be adjusted and I'd rather not do it with the engine running. Just makes me nervous...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

A '70 motor came with solid lifters. Open the oil cap and look at the rocker arms. If you see adjusters, they are solid. Hydraulic rockers have no adjusters.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Oh, I guess that's pretty easy to figure out.

Me = dork

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

yeah, I've adjusted valves before: hydralic when runing, and solid wngine off. I don't understand how to use a feeler gauge when the engine is runnng. Arem't there somne cold numbers that work?

this is very disturbing

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1967 D100 /225

Some of us catch on slow, and some of us don't.

It's not hard. See Here. Many have done it before, so can you.
For gross/rough adjustment on reassembly, sure. For final adjustment, no.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,
This is excellent. This is the kind of instructions that work for me. I had never done any mechanic work on anything until, I had bought a VW bug. It needed a clutch and I was broke. A friend loaned me the How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive book by John Muir. With the aid of that book, I had become a fairly competent parts changer. For reasons that I will not get into here, I have not tinkered with anything much for over 10 years. I thought that I would never bust another knuckle under the ol’ shade tree.

I’ve read quite a few of your posts, maybe not all, but quite a few, and I think that this is the finest. There is great detail. You discussed each move more than once with appropriate editorial comment. A little bit of humor. But maybe most importantly, you impart confidence. You tell me that I may not get it right the first time or the last time, but that there is an acceptable error of margin.

I will print up your instructions and follow them. The instructions in my Chilton are way lame. I even the advice about getting a spare rocker arm assembly. Just makes it easier for me.

After I adjust the lash with the engine hot, can I check the gap when it is cold and use that number to set them cold?

How often should the valves be adjusted?

Thanks for giving me a link and not bitchin’ me out for not using the search.

Pat O’Brien

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1967 D100 /225

Some of us catch on slow, and some of us don't.

Terrific! Use them in good health.
Oof. Trial by fire!
Sorta like quitting drinking coffee or listening to disco. You'll be back, sooner or later.
That's me, inspiring people to adjust their valves...or inspiring them to kick my teeth down my throat.
We all have to start somewhere. I still remember my first-ever valve adjustment. I overlooked the sequence change in the middle of the engine, where there are two intakes next to each other. The engine ran poorly and made a lot of noise, because half the intakes were at 0.020" and half the exhausts were at 0.010"! I called Doug (Doctor Dodge) all in a panic and he talked me through it. I spend so much time on this board primarily in an effort to give back to the community.
Ooh, yeah, see my instructions for the best way to use a Chilton or Haynes manual. Seriously, you can really bollix-up your vehicle trying to follow the incomplete/incorrrect instructions in those books. May I make my standard three-book recommendation? Of course, you substitute the year and model of your vehicle when buying the Factory Service Manual.
Unfortunately not. It won't be a valid setting. They really do need to be adjusted (and checked) hot.
If everything's in proper order (top end oiling is good and all the tappet adjustors are nice and tight in their rocker arms) then 20,000 to 25,000 miles isn't out of line. If any of the tappet adjustors is loose, you'll get to do the job again and again and again, tightening the clearance at those valves with loose adjustors until you fix the loose adjustors! If you run an unmodified pre-'72 engine hard on no-lead low-test gasoline, your exhaust valves will eventually recede and require the clearance be loosened to bring it back into spec. But if everything's in proper order, they tend to hold an ajustment pretty well.
Truthfully, it's easier for me to recollect a word or phrase I used in a post and toss off a 1-liner ("See thread here") than to just tell someone who doesn't remember the post to go search for it!

Pat O’Brien[/quote]

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.