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 Post subject: brake and other issues
PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:40 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:30 pm
Posts: 109
Location: Eugene,Oregon
Car Model:
hey guys i have a 74 duster i just did a rear swap and change out my front brake line, before i did the front brake line it felt like the back bakes where doing all the work now it feels like the front is doing all the work does anyone know what could be going on also i was wondering i want to change out my ball joint duster boot (bushing whatever you want to call it ) will this affect my alinement of my car also what do you guys think of a place call performance suspension i was think about get there stage 2 kit for my duster here is a link for it http://www.performancesuspension.com/gmachine.html

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:07 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:35 pm
Posts: 1044
Location: Maine
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Whoa! Please use punctuation marks!
:lol:

As for your brakes, perhaps they need to be bled again? A little trapped air can really cause you grief.

The suspension kits are nice, as they give you everything in a single package, and once you've installed it all you shouldn't have to revisit your front-end for quite a while. You will need to align the car after installing the kit. You'll also need a press (or a friendly garage or machine shop that has one) to press out the upper control arm bushings, etc. Do one side at a time so you have an example to look at as you put it back together! This is not a terribly difficult project, but it sure looks weird with everything out from underneath the wheel well!

I personally used a kit from PST on my '68 Dart, but others on this site probably have more experience with the different manufacturers.

-Mac


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 Post subject: Need two cars...
PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:33 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Do one side at a time so you have an example to look at as you put it back together! This is not a terribly difficult project, but it sure looks weird with everything out from underneath the wheel well!
If you're going to do it yourself, you'll need a manual and some tools. Luckily you're pretty close to some good slant guys in your end of the valley, if you need the bushings pressed in and out, I know Ceej has the jigs ready at his press (you'll have to PM him to see if he can help out). If you get a shop to do the work it will cost a bit more... I just used a PST kit and all the parts were good, except the strut busshings were crappy Norris Mcquay, and I had to pay extra for swapping to the C-body tie rods... You'll also have to factor in an alignment at a reputable shop (no Les Schwabs, etc...)... My duster's alignment is done (took a couple of hours for them to align/lube the chassis), I'm having them pull my driverside axle shaft as the bearing is now weeping.... :(

Sadly like everything once you 'get' in there you could find other things that also need attention (worn brakes, loose steering, etc...)

good luck,

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:06 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:30 pm
Posts: 109
Location: Eugene,Oregon
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hey can i do my ball joint bushing with out getting my car alignment

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 4:52 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2930
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
What do you mean when you say "ball joing bushing"? Ball joints are sealed non repairable units. If they go bad, replace the whole part!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:34 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
ARe you talking about the rubber boot that seals it?

Sam

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:28 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:30 pm
Posts: 109
Location: Eugene,Oregon
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that is what i am talking about

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:35 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
You have to break the ball joint stud loose from the spindle to change the boot. I would recommend an alignment afterward. You might get away without it but if it were me, I would do it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 7:00 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2930
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
I honestly wouldn't worry about just that boot; with the age of the car if you give them a few shots of grease at every oil change theyll be fine. Those usually blew out within a couple years anyways. BUT if you must, you won't need to loosen any alignment adjustment point to replace that boot, and the shank will only fit so far into the tapered seat in the spindle so if that were ALL you were doing, that by itself would NOT change your alignment; now to replace the ball joint, yeah, I would definitely at least have the alignment checked. It never hurts to have it checked at least, because do you know for sure that your alignment is right, as the car sits now, before you do any work to it? Definitely if you're gonna have the alignment checked (or corrected) wait til any/all front end work you plan on doing is done before going or you'll need to make multiple visits to the alignment shop which won't be cheap. Though unless you are planning on replacing it all anyways, a trip to the alignment shop beforehand, might help determine WHAT needs replaced, sometimes its easier to check out a suspension on a lift.That is, as long as you have an alignment guy that you trust, NOT to write up a bunch of BS just because of age of the car alone, or because he's on piecework pay scale that writes things up just to pad his paycheck!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:33 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:30 pm
Posts: 109
Location: Eugene,Oregon
Car Model:
hey guys i have other question i swap from a 7 1/4 rear end to 8 1/4 rear i have the part part from the car it came from is there any difference between a 73 dart and a 74 duster bother have front brakes the master cylinder look bigger not sure also have the control valve also how come i tell it the master cylinder had a brake booster or not

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