Bringin the thread back since this is a cheap project I want to get done soon after I get home...

Just for clarification, you didn't have to cut the floor pan at all to install yours? You say they're flat against the rear floor pan, so did you weld them to the floor pan at all either?

When you were done did you feel any noticable difference at all when driving?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Connectors are not welded to the floor pan at all.

I have not driven the car yet. Hoping to have it out next weekend for some shake down runs on motor only at US 41, then hit it with the hose in a couple weeks at RT66.

We put the same style connectors in my Duster when it was on the street. It was noticeably stiffer.

Since I put slicks on the car I am trying to keep the poor thing from getting twisted in half.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Sweet. I've got a buddy back home looking for some scrap tubing he can swipe for me, then I just gotta find someone who can help me weld 'em in.

How exactly did you support the car when you welded them in place ? Was it the same as it is in the pics you took when you narrowed the spring mounts? There's a frame lift at the auto shop on base back home, but I want to be careful that I don't support the car in a way that causes it to flex at all and bugger up my installation.

And I just noticed Sandy's post asking the same questions I did earlier. Somebody slap me...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

The car was on an old single post hoist and supported on 4 corners.

We did my Duster on a drive-on hoist. It was sitting on all 4 wheels when we did it.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Is your housing narrowed? How far "in" did you relocate the spring perches?

Thanks

Good stuff. They've got drive-on hoists at the shop too, so once I get my doors fixed and realigned, I'll go that route. From the research I've done, it seem the doors are the best indication that the car isn't sagging when it's on a lift, so I figure once I get them fixed up and aligned right, I'll know if the car is good when it's on the lift.

I just saw that Magnum HP sells connectors cut and contoured to the floor specially for 2-door A-bodies for less than $200. Made by US Car Tool. I'm going to take a look at the floor pans on my Duster and if the sheet metal's in good shape, I'll use those instead of tubing. Seems to be a much more elegant (and stock looking) way to go, as long as my floor's in good shape...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I actually saved the entire floor pan out of my '74 with partial subframes so I can pattern a couple of sets out of 2x2 or 2x3 tubing from the local scrap vendor (so far I got two 7' lengths of 2x2 tubing @ $12... and these wont be invasive to the floor pans as well as having enough space over the top or wall stiffness to drill/burn open the slot for the e-brake cable on the drivers side)

food for thought...

-D.Idiot

A friend and I used 2x2 tubing on my car. Slit the floor, slid the tubing into the rear frame rail, welded all around.

I don't think it is that invasive, or will really even be that noticeable under carpet.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Yeah I'm still keeping the 2x2 tubing option open for just those reasons. Either way, I'll be grinding all the crap off the underside of my car so painting it with Rust Encapsulator (not converter, just a sealant) from Eastwood, section by section...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Stock width housing, springs went in 3" per side. I had one of the MP relocation kits that we used.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I just drove my car after finishing my subframe connectors. I used 2x3 box, .090 wall. I did some fancy cutting of the box, bringing it down to approx 1.5 tall for rear portion, and welded it back together.

The car is noticeably firmer, quieter, and stiffer. I had big torsion bars upfront, and this seems to mellow them out.


The only hard part of this was rerouting the e-brake cable. I fabbed up some pulleys on the inside of the connectors, and it works better than the original cable routing.

It took me some time to do this, but so far, it seems worth the effort.

Greg

Last fall I used this one, it bolted right up after a few cuts around the rear torque boxes. I did have to move the emergency brake cable under the drives foot pan an inch so it passes above the new bar. These connectors can be welded in as well. The car is stiffer.

Oh, performed the install with suspended by jack stands. I recommend using a lift.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I welded in some 2" (X1/4"!) square tubing as subframe connectors in my 67 convertible. Then we welded on some perches to the outer edge of the connectors, and attached a 4-point roll bar. Part of this was because I have flipped a vehicle once, on Storrow Drive at rush hour . Also, this car was rusty and patched together, and I thought the roll bar would keep it all headed down the road in the same direction. Slantsix Dan advised me not to bother, but I was determined.
The end result was that the car felt like new. All the rattles went away, and it felt like the suspension was taking up much more of its intended duty. I also attached shoulder belts to the roll bar. Now I feel like the car needs heavier torsion bars and springs. I'll post pictures when I figure out how.
I also installed the US Cartool connectors on my fastback, because it's in better shape, and the connectors almost look stock, went in easily, and work well.

If I would have had the $$ and the time to go and fetch my car from Florida after the install GregZ (MagnumHP) was going to test fit those rails on my Duster. I was in the process of moving back to TN when they were getting ready to do a trial fit.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

[quote="wjajr"]Last fall I [url=http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mopbod111whe.html] used this one[/url], it bolted right up after a few cuts around the rear torque boxes. I did have to move the emergency brake cable under the drives foot pan an inch so it passes above the new bar. These connectors can be welded in as well. The car is stiffer.

Oh, performed the install with suspended by jack stands. I recommend using a lift.[/quote]

Do you know if those will fit a 65 Dart? or the wheel base is shorter?
I see that mopar sells 111" and 108" inche wheelbase subframe connectors and I'm not sure wich one will fit my car.

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Martin Zappettini
1974 Dodge Polara RT 318cu.
1965 Valiant III Coronado Slant Six 6-Pack (soon!!)