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 Post subject: Ball Joint Work
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:23 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:38 am
Posts: 202
Location: Medical Lake, WA
Car Model:
Any advice on removing the lower control arm press in ball joints on a D150 truck (1982)? What about the upper control arm thread in type ball joint? I have all the tools to push in/out a press fit ball joint, the thread in monsters appear to require a big honking ball joint socket and lots of grunt. Should I even bother with the thread in guys or should I just spring for new upper A-arms and take the easy way out? I will be able to douse these with various flavors of penetrating oil, etc for weeks for what its worth. I imagine that hanging a dead chicken around my neck and mumbling various chants might help too...

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Slanted D150


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:45 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
I like to do the upper threaded B. Joint while the A-arm is still bolted in position... that is the best way to hold it. A large / Strong 3/4 drive impact wrench also helps but a long pipe slid ont a breaker bar also does the job.
I do not know much about the lower "press-in" BJ used on the trucks, all the pass. car BJs I work with bolt-on.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:51 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:19 am
Posts: 470
Location: SC
Car Model: 63 Dart 81 D150
The lowers are pretty straight forward, if you have pressed any ball joints before it will be easy.

The uppers aren't bad to do. Scrape the road crap away, and soak with your favorite penetrating sauce. I STRONGLY recommend the proper socket, its only $40 or so, and using a pipe wrench really sucks. Any decent 1/2" drive impact gun will take them out. If they are really tight, work them back and forth for a while and keep soaking them. I have even removed them with my Snap-On 1/2" cordless gun. If you are using an impact, you can do them in a good vise, if they have to come off the truck anyway. Use a good spring compressor, don't count on the shock to hold togeather.

Good Luck

TopHat


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 Post subject: Lol...
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:47 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
Quote:
I STRONGLY recommend the proper socket, its only $40 or so, and using a pipe wrench really sucks. Any decent 1/2" drive impact gun will take them out.
The 'quality' socket are only made in 3/4" drive now... and I think Ceej and I can attest getting the BJ out with a 3/4 wrench isn't too bad as long as the factory didn't cross thread/cockeye the thing in...

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:09 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:38 am
Posts: 202
Location: Medical Lake, WA
Car Model:
Thanks guys for the tips. A 3/4 drive socket it will be, if only because that is the only breaker bar I own. Ummm, somehow pipes find their way on to 1/2 drive ratchets for smaller sized wrenching...don't tell my high school shop instructor!

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