Alright so I've got the Super Six intake manifold now but I need everyone's opinion on which is the best 2 barrel carburetor for MPGs? And if anyone has one I'll be a buyer as well. The only ones I know of are the Holley2280 (i think) and the Carter 2425. Well let me know. Thanks everyone!!

never heard of a Carter 2425. Usually people use the Carter BBD as was stock orig equipment on Super 6s back in the day. PM /6Dan; I think he's got a few nos ones in his stash.

The 'exact' fit is the Carter BBD for the super six... the next best fit is the Carter BBD for 318 applications and the Holley 2280...

-D.Idiot

p.s. 0-2425 is the casting number on the bowl of most BBD's and is not related to what the BBD was used on, the brass tag attached to the bowl screws will tell you that (something like 8137S)

I run a Weber 32/36 DGEV. Nice and tunable (a benefit and a curse). Sort of expensive if you buy a new one. Designed for a 2 liter 4 cylinder but re-jetted works nicely on an I-6. A Carter BBD in good shape will simply work out of the box (assuming it is a Slant flavor). The BBD is a stock Slant thing, works, is well documented, and is inexpensive.

Which carb to run is sort of an emotional question--if your carb is properly chosen and tuned for the application you shouldn't really notice much of a difference between Carters, Holleys, Webers, etc. They do all drive a bit different in my opinion however...

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Slanted D150

How can you tell if the BBD carb if for a slant six? Going to a swap meet tomorrow hoping to find something usefull.

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

Hello friends. I am in the same boat as 72DartSwinger. My car is dead over at my friend's shop and he wants it out of there as soon as possible because he does restoration work and needs the space. In a nutshell, I need to buy a new carb tomorrow and do not know what to get. I simply want to buy a reliable carb with reasonable performance and avoid all remanufactured options from national chain stores. I am leaning towards a 32/36 DGEV Weber but I am open to all suggestions. I almost jumped on the 350 CFM Holley from Summit Racing but it is more expensive than the Weber and I am not the biggest fan of Holleys in the first place. Do you guys think I will get what I am looking for out of the Weber 32/36?

The number on the brass tag attached to one of the carb screws will be 8136S,8137S,8177S... among the numbers... the throttle plates will have no holes drilled in them (like the 318 carbs), and the choke plate unloader has a different form than the 318 version...

-D.Idiot

A Weber 32/36 DGEV works pretty good on a Slant Six. I strongly suggest installing a wideband O2 sensor and associated metering (a voltmeter will do in a pinch). Tuning any carb while observing the air/fuel mixture will make life so much easier. Depending on what car this goes in, the throttle linkage work will be easy or not so easy. Mine is in a truck with a throttle cable--this was easy.

If you want more performance (in place of economy) consider a Weber 38/38 carb--it is a 38 mm two barrel with both barrels opening at the same time--in time I may get one of those to play with perhaps. If you shave the head, swap camshafts,etc and are looking for more power (instead of economy) the 38/38 Weber is probably what you want.

If you get a Weber 32/36 check the float setting first thing--regardless of what anyone says. Take the top off the carb and measure the float setting. Also, check your jetting--remember that a stock 32/36 Weber is jetted for a 4 cylinder--you WILL need to re-jet it for the Slant. Will it work on a Slant when jetted for a 4 cylinder? Yes, it will. Will you like the performance of a Weber 32/36 when it is jetted for a 4 banger? Probably not.

A place to consider starting for jetting follows:

Main Idle: 80
Main Fuel: 160
Main Air Corrector: 190
Secondary Idle: 70
Secondary Fuel: 160
Secondary Air Corrector: 170

The above works for me although I must confess that I still tweak it. One thing to note is that you need to learn to "shift into" a Weber carb--they are performance devices and like to be driven as such. I have found that you want to wind your engine up and make certain that when you shift that you keep the engine at the appropriate rpm to stay somewhere in its torque production band. I drive an A833 O/D in a truck...basically this means that I use only 3 gears most of the times. The Weber is pretty flat when I use O/D, until I am at the 75 mph level, then it is pretty sporty, but then so is the ride quality of the truck! I need a numerically higher rear end gear ratio if I want to stay in O/D anywhere other than on dead flat roads.

Take any jet settings at face value only--what works in my rig may not work in your rig. Gasoline oxygenation levels are constantly being adjusted, also, "local" blends of fuel have varying oxygenate levels in them. I have noticed instances where I have driven a long distance and fueled up (out of state) and then I began running lean. Obviously, that fuel was a different flavor of gasoline that my carb wasn't jetted for. This is one of the many reasons that fuel injection is nice to have (the downside is it isn't trival to put it on a Slant Six).

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Slanted D150

tirol, thanks for the informative post. Looks like I will go for the Weber 32/36. A friend of mind (where my Dart is currently stored) is a car restoration export. He also builds outrageous hotrods. I mean seriously outrageous hotrods. He's going to help me with the carb installation and tuning. He actually agrees that the Weber is best for my daily driving application. As he says and I agree, Holleys are good for racing but not the best choice for everyday driving many times. Of course there are exceptions, but I have personally found Holleys to be a bit sensitive. I am basing this opinion off of a Holley 4-barrel I once had on my old Challenger and also a Holley I had on a 1972 Cutlas Supreme. I eventually opted for Edelbrocks and loved the Edelbrocks. Also keep in mind that the two carbs I just went through were both Holleys. As far as the 38/38 goes, I think I have enough cam for it but with an automatic transmission I might drown the motor a bit. If I had a manual transmission the larger Weber might be the right way to go. Because I am assuming that the Weber 32/36 is staged. Right? Or do both barrels open up immediately? Again, I know next to nothing about Webers on a Dodge Slant. I have seen them on Jeeps, Harley Davidsons and a wide range of imports such as Triumph cars and MGBs. And most people like them. I once had a Weber on a AMF era 1200CC Harley Sportster. And that motorcycle was a piece of crap. However, the Weber did bring it to life a bit and stopped me from fouling plugs constantly. Thanks again.

Jump!! Get Weber 32/36.

I have one also and It is giving me wonderful opporunities to tweak that I could not do with crappy holley 5220 on my 2.2.

Cheers, Wizard

The Weber 32/36 is staged ( progressive throttles). The 38/38 would be a good choice and I dont see it giving you any trouble but the 32/36 might get better fuel mileage on the town driving. I really like the Webers but you can get into a little bit of money buying jets. They have six jets plus emulsion tubes and accel squirter that can be changed which gets a little costly, but it does help to dial them in very good which allows economy plus performance.


The same thing can be done with the Holley, its just not as easy as changing jets. I did get 24 mpg out of my Holley 500 after modifying it to be tuned and power was better than any other two barrel setup I tried. No bottom end power problems, infact it had the best bottom end power and would leave pulling out with a quick stab with no bogs or dead spots. The Weber 38/38 should be able to do the same with the right tuning and if one carb was what I was going to run it would be the carb I would pick. The 32/36 carbs are what I am going to run on my duel carb intake.



Jess

One last question before I squeeze the trigger on my credit card and pay $300 for a Weber 32/36. What is the difference between the following submodels of the 32/36 carb family:

1.) 32/36 DGEV Weber Carburetor (The one I think is right for my engine)
2.) 32/36 DGAV Weber Carburetor
3.) 32/36 DFEV Weber Carburetor (listed as direct replacement for Holley 5200 Models)

These are three electric choke models of the 32/36 group. And I want an electric choke on my engine. My only question is what are the specific differences between these three carbs? Jetting I assume. Anyone know for sure?

Thanks ...

How are people bolting these to their intakes? redrill the super six intake?

Im looking to put a BBD on a millage master 170. Would these progressives be a better choice?

CrAlt, Summit Racing's tech line told me that they have a billet aluminum adapter for the 32/36 to bolt to the 4-bolt 2-barrel Super Six intake. It's an AdaptTech part and costs $12.95. Problem is that I need to call their tech line back tomorrow during business hours to double-check the manifold bolt measurements. My intake came off of a 1978 Diplomat and the measurements are:

1 7/8 front to rear
4 1/4 side to side

The tech guys assured me that they have the right adapter and have sold them for this exact Slant Six set-up numerous times in the past.

Also, K&N makes an attractive and quality air cleaner for all 32/36 Weber carbs. Pictured below:



Direct link:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produc ... oduct=3812

Note that the Weber 32/36 plus a half inch tall adapter will really raise the height of the carb configuration. Pegasus Racing offers two different heights. Obviously Jeep set-ups can handle the 3.25 inch tall air filter but a stock Dart hood might do better with the shorter 1.75 inch version. It is part number 3812-1.75. It is $59.99 but the cheaper cotton filter Weber sales is around $25.00 to $30.00. I think the extra money is worth it for a K&N filter. Just my opinion.

Cool. When you call back see if you can get the summit part number and post it here. Im sure others could use that info. Who seems to have the best price on the carbs themselfs?