Hi there! My name is Martin, I´m from Argentina and I would like to ask you something.. you sure know a lot more than us in concern of automatic transmission (its a bad word here in Argentina ... they don´t know what they are missing).

I have a 2 1971 Dodge GTX (came here in Argentina from 1970 to 1973 with 225 slant six or 318 v8) with A230/4 transmission (Similar to A230/3 but modified in Argentina to fit 4 gears) Both mine are Slant Six and a 1975 Dodge Coronado... 225 with Torqueflite A904. So as you can see.. i´m a slant fan!

The thing is with my Coronado. I did a lot of work in the engine.. it pulls very good... revs very quickly... nice engine... the thing is that the transmission doesn´t allow the engine to rev when the shifter is in D. 1-2 shift is done at 2500 RPM and 2-3 shift at 3000 RPM. When setting the trans to 1 or 2.. the car goes very fast in 3000+ RPM.

I yet have an issue with Kickdown cable. I bought this current trans to Juan (argentinaslanter or something like that here) and he gift me a lokar cable. The cable is fine but it doesn´t fit well my current intake-carburator setup. I´ll show you in a pic:



I rotated the carburator 90 degrees in search for better fuel distribution. But now i need a longer cable so that it doesn´t turn sharp. I will work on this in the next days.

I also bought some books regarding Automatic trans. One that is blue and black cover... 727 torqueflite handbook explains that the most critical feature in shifting is... governor.

Are any of you using different governor than stock? Do you have any idea of how can i make the trans shift at 5500 RPM at full throtle? I have no trick shift kit (or so i think... i bought this trans being told that it had american parts... but that doesn´t mean trick shift kit)

The engine should be good to about 6200 RPM. There was a lot of slant six racing here in Argentina in the 80´s... and there are lots a old gearheads that assure the job I did in this engine is good up to 6200 RPM. I did the same things people still do in not so important categories, where they push the slant to 6700 RPM in tracks. Circuit racing, not drag. So far i pushed it to 5600 RPM in 1... it really went fast and smooth (good balance job).

Any ideas will be appreciated! Thank you very much!

Saludos, Martin! Wow...that's a very shiny engine compartment! What is the surface treatment on your intake manifold? It looks chromed...?

Of course the transmission's internal components, such as the governor, must be operating properly if the transmission is to behave correctly. But much more common than an internal problem is an external problem; kickdown linkage or cable and lever geometry is very critical to proper shifting. This gets tricky to make right when non-factory configurations are used such as the 90°-rotated 2bbl carburetor. It can be made to work, it just takes more adjustment and adaptation. You may want to look at this post for a link to an alternative kickdown cable setup that might work better for you.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the quick response!!!

It is kick down problem... at least I must solve this first as you say. Will band adjustment help too? I´ve never done that. I don´t know if I can find a socket to place in the torquimeter for adjusting. Do you have a picture of that socket?

Do well configurated kick down cars with healty engine allow 5500 RPM before shift with a standart trans?

Thanks a lot for the comments of the compartment... it took a lot of work. Both Intake and Exhaust manifolds are chromed. I had to polish the intake! But.. no pain.. no gain... I had a lot of parts custom made for this engine.. its very sweet. I´ll show you in another theard so that we don´t contamine this one!

Thanks again!

More like 4000 rpm shift points........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Well.. that´s a start.

So standart A904 Transmision with everything right should shift at 4000RPM al full throttle. Thanks!

Do trick shift kit change this? Or is it just a Governor issue?

Thanks!

Lengthening the kick-down rod should be all you have to do to make it shift later.

The socket for the band adjustment is an 8 point (or 12 point) instead of a 6 point. If I remember correctly, the size is 1/4". By testing with a torque wrench, I found that you can get the correct torque by using a 1/4" drive "screwdriver" handle and tightening the adjuster as hard as you can with one hand. Then you back off the adjuster acording to the book (1.5 turns if I remember correctly).

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

Thanks Chuck! Nice Darts!