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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:57 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2007 3:14 pm
Posts: 59
Car Model:
i followed the instructions on how to do that HEI conversion by using a 77 electronic distributor, tossing the ballast, upgrading to a Blaster2 coil, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I'm using a Hei module from Autozone p/n DR100. I keep on having to replace the module because it keeps failing. I've got the original positive wire running to the positive side of the coil and then to the "B" on the module. "C" runs to the neg side of the coil which also has the tach input. the other 2 wires are running to the dist. The car will run great for about a week and then the module is no good. there has to be something wrong with my wiring for me to have burned 4 of the modules.

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'66 Barracuda super six turbo??


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:09 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
What kind of heat sink do you have? Is the module well grounded? Why are you buying cheap Chinese parts?

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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 7:09 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24786
Location: North America
Car Model:
Definitely make sure your heat sink is adequate (how exactly is your module mounted? Did you use the heat sink grease that should've come with it?) and also make sure your module is grounded cleanly. What's your charging system look like? spiky/fluctuating voltage is hard on modules.

I went to autozone.com and I see that DR100 is garbage from Duralast, Autozone's private-label junk from the third world. Could be all you need to do is buy a better module made by a real company (Standard/BlueStreak, Echlin, ACDelco, Wells, etc.)

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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 2:52 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2007 3:14 pm
Posts: 59
Car Model:
the module is mounted to the fender and i did use the heatsink grease that came with it. I went and picked up a new module from napa the echlin brand. However still no spark. The charging system has a fairly new voltage regulator, the electronic type, and it holds a steady 13.5 volts when running.

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 1:34 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:47 pm
Posts: 445
Location: Runge, TX
Car Model: 1974 W100; 72 Dart
If you have not done so, run a ground wire from one of the screws that holds down the module. You can tell which bolt to use, because it has a raised 'washer' just for grounding purposes.

Also, I used a piece of Aluminum to create a heat sink for mine, don't know if the lack of such a piece would lead to you constant failures, but its worth a shot.

Double check that you have your coil wired in properly and not reversed anywhere.

Have you tried reversing your leads to the dizzy?

sb


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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:26 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 8:40 am
Posts: 94
Location: Orlando, FL
Car Model:
There are 2 types of heat sink (thermal) paste, some that conduct electricity and some that don't....MOST don't conduct electricity. Run a ground wire.. Oh and thermal paste on top of paint is a waste of time. even if it's bolted to a "small" piece of aluminum it will make a world of difference.

install a 1700v transistor with the wrong kind and you find out real quick.. :)


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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 3:51 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Car Model:
Have you tried adding a relay so that the HEI module and the coil are both getting full voltage from the battery? I did this after I burnt out my first module and haven't had a problem since.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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