...but if you're actually trying to keep engine-damaging grit out of your engine, K&N filters are a poor choice and the hype used to sell them is mostly false. See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You most likely want the Weber DGEV. The D means it is a two barrel, the E is an electric choke (DGAV is a water choke). I believe that all 32/36 Webers are stock jetted at 140/140 for the main/secondary fuel jetting. Unless you specifically request someone to re-jet for you I suspect you will end up with 4 cylinder jetting.

The Weber has a bolt pattern that is oh so close to a Caret BBD bolt pattern--but it won't fit. Buy the funky Weber adapator plates--and use the Super Six manifold. Use a quality gasket sealer on the adaptor plates, but not on bottom of the carb itself. The fuel bowl whould face forward, watch that you place the PCV port in the proper location. The Weber 32/36 is a progressive carb, the 2nd barrel comes in with foot mashing the accelerator, it is a mechanical secondary. The 38/38 is an all in 2 bbl--it is actually designed for a 3.0 liter so think about which carb you really want.

The tricky part about the 32/36 carb is the infamous Weber "bog" that you WILL discover when the secondary opens up--proper jetting will make it go away. Bumping the secondary idle jet up will often cure boggy behavior.

Buy a Weber tuning book--although you might just do better surfing. I have two "tuning books' and they are pretty general in that they cover ALL Webers.

I used a Holley air cleaner adaptor (5-1/4") and did some welding and added a 4 bbl bottom to my existing air cleaner--some Bondo, etc and it looks stock. Don't bother with the cheesy Weber air cleaners--they are tiny and use some crappy clips to hold it the filter in place. The K&N filters flow well--because they don't filter all that well! Skip the hype on those things and see if you make use of a stock paper filter.

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Slanted D150

I will definitely post every detail of my purchase for the carb conversion. I'll post the specifics tomorrow night after work. I cannot call the tech line until tomorrow sometime. But for advance notice here I can safely say that Summit Racing has the best price and selection of odd carb adapters. And I must also witness here that the technical and sales people over at Summit Racing are kind and helpful. It's a fresh experience when considering the jerks I have encountered at Jegg's and let's not even mention Year One. I actually got into a yelling match with an apathetic and condescending sales guy at Year One over a speedometer needle. In fact, I have called Year One four or five times in the past few weeks and all of the people I have encountered were terrible to deal with. They seem to have an attitude that unless you have a '68 Hemi Cuda or '70 RT Challenger, you are wasting their time.

For the moment, here's a direct link to the 32/36 Weber DGEV carb:
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32_36_D ... 0.033b.htm

Weber Direct has the best prices I can find and a decent tech line. I have talked to them twice and they have been helpful although they will try to upsale you into larger kits. Just pass on the air filter. However, you'll need the linkage conversion kit that they offer. But the weber air filter looks cheap and even SlantSixDan here on the site says the stock Weber air filters are weak. I think they are made of a cotton blend of some sort. Reusable as they claim but it all sounds a bit flimsy to me. K&N makes good products in my opinion. I run K&N filters on both of my motorcycles.

My choices here at the end boiled down to either the Weber 32/36 or the Universal 350 CFM Holley offered at Summit Racing. Jegg's also sales the Universal Holley but is slightly higher than Summit price by $10 or $15 I think. However, the Universal Holley is really meant for racing applications such as certain dirt track leagues and what not. It even says it in the fine print of the catalogs. I am not by any means saying the Holley will not work for everyday driving. It's just that I'd rather not spend my time tuning the thing constantly. And also consider that the Holley also requires an adapter and the linkage would have to be improvised. At least Weber does have a linkage conversion kit available. And my friend who is a veteran car restorer and a high level hotrod builder even told me to go with the Weber over the Holley.

The reason I narrowed my choice to these two carbs is simply because they were two of the only actual "new" carbs out of the box I could find as opposed to remanufactured junk from the chain stores. O'Reilly Auto Parts had the best deal on both a remanufactured Carter and Holley OEM carb but when I say best price I mean nearly $200. And it had to be special ordered from their mysterious warehouse. Which actually means it is a dropship order from some Mexican shop that hammers out OEM carbs on a low quality assembly line at best. I figure what's another extra $100 to buy an actual "new" carb?

Well, again, I will definitely post every link and a price breakdown of my conversion tomorrow. The Weber set-up for just the carb and linkage conversion plus shipping will be a little over $300. And the adapter will be another $12.95 plus shipping. Add in gaskets and K&N air filter and I figure I'll be in and out of the deal for around $400. Not too painful a price as long as I have reliable performance in the end. I mean, keep in mind that I have a couple of friends that have paid as much as $800 for high performance 4-barrel set-ups recently on V-8s.

[EDIT]: Dan, posted while I was typing. I didn't know you disliked K&N filters. They work well on my Mikunis mounted on my motorcycles. But I'll read the article you posted. Thanks ...

Did I read right on another post, that Dan has new Carter BBD carbs?
????????????????????????

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Really bad news.

I was on the phone off and on all day with Summit, Weber, AdaptTech and a couple of others and it turns out the tech guys at Summit were confused and only have a Weber adapter for a one barrel configuration. But I had to call AdaptTech directly in California to double-check and when talking to the technician at AdaptTech he also revealed that they only manufacture a one barrel adapter because of a lack of demand. I even provided all dimensions and he cross-referenced everything and nothing came up. He was helpful but to no avail.

Also, the Weber technician I talked to the night before was wrong as well and today the technical manager talked to me and revealed that the other guy was mistaken and quoted me for a Jeep linkage conversion kit. In other words, Weber offers no linkage kit for Slant Six engines.

But I am still going to give it a shot. I want to simply tap new studs in the cast iron intake or either weld new ones on but unfortunately the manifold opening in 1 7/8 inches deep and the carb is 1 11/16 inches deep. Looks like I might have to have a machine shop make a spacer for me.

Yay! Kidding of course.

This could be a blessing in disguise, "forcing" you to rework a manifold completely and winding up with better carb orientation into the bargain; see this post.

And yes, I do have some new carbs I am going to put up for sale very soon — within the next couple days as soon as I finalise the list with detailed application notes — unless we want to wait for pictures, in which case it'll be several weeks down the line.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The Jeep 2-bbl to Weber adapter will get the Weber carb mounted on the Super Six manifold, but you will have to roll your own linkage.

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Joshua

Joshie225 is right the Jeep 4.0 or the 4.2 two barrel intakes came with BBD carbs and the adaptor will bolt right on your super six intake. Infact the carb that comes for the Jeep would be a good place to start because of jetting. Both the 32/36 and the 38/38 are offered for the Jeep engine so you can get either one already jetted close to your needs.



I have a brand new 32/36 electric choke carb that was bolted on and then the car was wreaked within a week. It looks like it is right out of the box. If I had a adaptor I could install it on my super six and tune it but I dont have one. That could be arranged though if you really was interested. I have complete assortments of all jets and 4 pairs of every E-tube they offer for the Weber two barrels. I plane to run Duel Webers on all three of my slant six cars but I already have three pairs matched up ready to go for them.


Myself with a super six I would do the 38/38 but the 32/36 might give a little better fuel mileage in town driving over the 38/38. I have never got to run a 38/38 so I really dont know how well they tune on light throttle & cruise but if there like any other Weber they should be able to tune well for it even though it might take some testing & tuning to get it there. There is no doute for me though that the slant six would make good use of a 38/38 after I seen how well they like a Holley 500 and this even on a stock /6. Although the 32/36 does quite well on the slant I just like to get all I can out of things when it comes to spending money.

One thing about the 32/36 is you could get a Offy duel intake latter and buy one more carb and have a duel Weber setup if you was to want to pick up some power, two 38/38's would be a bit much I believe for this setup unless it was full race. You see many slants even in a mild setup running duel 1920's or even duel BBD's and they love it. The 38/38 would be about equal to running duel 1920 one barrels so that gives a good idea of how they would respond to the 38/38, only the Weber would be able to be tuned to a much finer piont.


Either way getting the Weber bolted down to your intake is no problem, just get the Jeep two barrel adaptor.


Jess

I'm having a hard time finding such an adaptor online anywhere. Got a link?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The Jeep adaptor plate is what you need...as others pointed out.

Go Here:

http://www.carburetion.com/adaptors.asp

and you can learn all about adaptor plates, etc. What you want for the SuperSix is the Small Two Barrel adaptor plate--measure it to be certain (don't take my word for it).

The actual plate is here:

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/webern ... =99004.551

$30 and its yours. When you get the thing in hand find a flat surface and lay down some 120 grit or so sandpaper and give it a good "honing." These adaptors can be pretty rough at times. Dry fit it on your rig, figure out how you want things to lay out (i.e. the PCV port, etc). Once you got it figured out use some Permatex #2 (of equivalent) and put it together with the supplied gaskets. Do NOT use any goo on the carb bottom.

The point about the 32/36 v.s. the 38/38 is a good one. There is a 34/34 that is out there as well. If I had nothing but money I wouldn't mind trying them all out to see what they are like--I think most people call this fully tunable fuel injection! I like the idea of the dual 32/36 manifold--that would be fun and it would look pretty trick. I wonder how it would work on cold mornings though.

Got to love the internet--you can get smart on adaptor plates and other arcane stuff in a click of a mouse button.

Anyway, don't give up, the Weber will work. The linkage might take some tweaking--I needed a cotter pin secured pivot pin with a big flat head on one side for my Weber's linkage...I sawed off a ten penny nail and drilled a hole in the nail for the cotter pin, problem solved.

Otherwise the Carter BBD that SlantSixDan has will work right out of the box--just remember that the reason the BBD is replaced often is because it is a flogged >25 year old carb--apparently Dan's are new (??!!) so they should work just fine.

One last note--the Weber's SOUND great, even in a truck with a leggy A-833 O/D. I have some looonnnggg gears so it can be a little boggy if I don't stay in the torque curve, but if I drive properly that Weber just howls. I love it!


Sidebar:
I need to deep six my fully functional, but skinny exhaust system to see what that does. After the 2-1/4" exhaust pipes go in I suppose I am in for a head shave--I wonder if the larger valve game will do anything performance wise, but it can't hurt I suppose. Anyway, my Slant Six is a stock motor (sans the LeanBurn stuff) and the Weber made quite a difference. Now, I have no idea how it ran when new with the one bbl and a fully functioning Lean Burn System so what I deem an improvement might just be "stock" performance! I am pretty certain that the Weber is a little congested with the skinny exhaust system though, so keep that in mind for later improvements...

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Slanted D150

Will this work?

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/webern ... =99004.551

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vm

Ebay is a good place to find the adaptors also, plus they have pics and you can see how they work. They are kinda of a odd design and the meantion off taking sand paper and lapping the two parts is a good one . Lapping the two parts will help keep vacuum leak problems down but you must also be carfull with overtightening and not warp the two parts.




You should also know that Weber castings are differnt now than they use to be. The old Webers where made in Spain if I am not misstaking and the new ones, who knows. WHere the fuel line goes in seems to be a good clue of which casting they are, the press in fuel line is the new casting & the older one takes a screw in fuel line fitting. That may not be 100% acurate but I believe it is correct, but the best I can tell this is how to tell the diff. There are probably other things that show different but I have not spotted them if so. Well some castings do have Made in Spain on them.

I have some old & some new castings and I cant find any problems with the new ones, but some people claim they are not as good. I dont like the press in fuel fittings on the new ones, but I have yet to see one give trouble and it appears it could be machined and changed over to a screw in fitting if you wish to do so. I could see a race car with a lot of vibration causing the press in fuel line to give trouble over time. Also having the ability to change to dieferent size/style fuel line fittings is a plus .



Jess

I vote for the Autolite 2100. It has a noticable increase in power and mileage over a BBD. They require an adapter plate, but you need to be careful with them as they are made for Holley 2300's and the base plate are not the same between the two carbs, so vacuum leaks are possible.

Look for one with "1.08" on the main body. I like the ones with the 2 stage power valves (AMC V8s). Rebuild kits are around $30 and I use a kit for '75 AMC 304 powered jeeps. Jets and power values are readily available from Pony Carbs.

The electric choke works better then the water heated chokes, but both have a tendency to stay on for too long. But other then that, wonderful carbs.

Autolite 2100? Where can one find these carbs?

I'm interested...

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Well I picked up a Carter BBD off of eBay which I'll put in the dip and see how it does.

Autolite: I'd rather run a BBD with less power than a Ford anything, jk, it'd be worth looking into.