I am running a Autolite 2100 on my super six right now and it is a good choice for a cheap carb that works good. Its performance is close to the Holley 500 except it has annulor boosters and is not as tunable without making modifications. Although mods are not hard if you already do mods to Holleys. It does a little better down at low RPM and cruize than the Holley 500, but at WOT the Holley 500 out performs the 2100 if you have enough engine to make use of it. Even on a stock slant the Holley 500 made a little more power at topend WOT than the 2100 but the drivability is very good with the 2100.


The best ones come on the Ford early 80,s trucks & cars using V8,s both big and small. The later models have a variable high speed air bleeds system that helps dial in the topend A/F ratio but the ones without this work good also. Some of the Jeep V8's and other AMC setups also have this carb. The one thing I dont like about these carbs is you have to go to ford to get jets, or one of the on line carb specialty places may have them but normal Holley jets dont fit them. They use air bleed systems much like the Holleys so if you already do the set screw air bleed trick on Holley's it would be the same size set screws for the 2100. The annulor boosts make the part throttle response on these carb great, but restrict top end flow a little. THey also will take the exact same power valve as a Holley so you can dial the power circuit in pretty good to.

The one I am runnning right now I have converted over to run on E85. I was able to dial it in with a nice lean cruise and the correct WOT A/F on gas or E85 with a few modifactions. For a cheap midway performance carb they are pretty good and will out perform the BBD. They also come in different size throttle bore sizes ( the throat not the throttle plate), you can look on the side of the carb and they are marked with the size.



Jess

Autolite 2100 = Motorcraft 2100. See here and if you don't feel like doing all the adaptation work yourself, check with this guy. — I conversed with him some time back and he seemed quite capable of putting together a package for a slant-6. The application details are quite similar to those of the 232 or 258 AMC Six he markets for; note that his comments about the Carter BBD being junk are correct in the context of the BBDs AMC bought from Carter, which had several problematic design "features" not found in the BBDs Chrysler bought from Carter.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ive had many BBD's myself over the years, other than occasional sloppy throttle shaft theyre good carbs; yet the Jeep guys despise them. Ive always wondered why.

The only thing I can think of is that not being on level ground may make them funky..............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Yeah, in my pursuit of Weber 32/36 knowledge I trolled several Jeep forums and most of them claim the Carter carbs perform badly when climbing, bouncing and constantly changing angles during off-road type of driving. Then I thought, heck, if the Weber 32/36 can handle that sort of abuse, it should do well for street driving atop a Slant Six.

Interesting read on that guy's Autolite carb site. I especially like his blurb about replacing Weber's as often as th Carter carbs. I think his comment about proper jetting, etc re-iterates the need for a wideband O2 sensor if you are serious about properly tuning your carb.

Perhaps you might want to put the O2 sensor in BEFORE you do the carb buy (I think you said your rig was dead though). I am looking at O2 sensors and associated A/F ratio loggers right now--I am moving into the mountains and I want to actually meter my A/F ratio instead of using a stopwatch and the butt dyno. I gave up "reading" spark plugs as a lost cause. You need a good run and a good kill to do it right, this usually ends up as a good way to get a speeding ticket while burning your fingers. Reading the funk at your tailpipe is just way silly. The Gunston Colour-tune plug is good for idle settngs, butI don't enjoy having my eyeball that close to an engine at 3500 RPM so that choice doesn't work either.


Anyway, regardless of what carb you choose see about puttig an O2 sensor in your rig. It would be very helpful if people here could post up jet settins, etc and the A/F ratios--it migh just save someone a few $$ on extra jets, air correctors, etc.

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Slanted D150

Weber VERY good - try the 36DCD - it has sequential opening butterflies - and is very tunable - even the main chokes can be swapped out

My conversion will have 2 on LONG ram manifolds

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars