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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 8:22 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:40 pm
Posts: 36
Location: So. Cal.
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I attemting to remove the heat riser that attaches to my intake on my stock exhaust manifold. Cant afford a header or durta duals, so i think I will modify mine. I dont like having my intake "heated up". I know i should heat the manifold up and keep it at a high temp while welding, my biggest questions are- Is trigger welding better in this application? Will the manifold be more prone to cracking now? What metal do i use to weld on? Thanks for the advise

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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 10:59 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:27 am
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A difficult job even for a pro.


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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 7:52 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2004 5:22 am
Posts: 1134
Location: Carrollton, TX
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Quote:
I dont like having my intake "heated up".
There are many who strongly contend that the fuel is atomized better by this heat...

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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 8:49 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:40 pm
Posts: 36
Location: So. Cal.
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In the past when I had some V8s dyno'd I picked up anywhere from 4 to 6 hp from putting ice on the intake. So iam not a fan of heat in my intake. I will be doing this tomarrow hope all goes well.

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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 10:15 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2003 6:43 pm
Posts: 976
Location: SoCal
Car Model: Toad Wagon
Howdy,

I brazed a shunt plate into mine (replacing the riser flap), for the same reasons you've given.

You may click on the photos link in my signature and go to the "'62 Super Six" album. A couple shots of it are in there.

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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 11:06 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:40 pm
Posts: 1533
Location: Seattle,WA
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old6rodder why did ya seal up the flapper?

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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 11:56 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2003 6:43 pm
Posts: 976
Location: SoCal
Car Model: Toad Wagon
Two reasons;

1, Over the years I've found that keeping the carb cooler seems to serve me well. To that end I refrain from heating it up in the first place. The shunt is fully sealed and helps in that goal as I can run an insulating gasket between the manifolds in lieu of a sealing one.
I also provide a cool air supply so it doesn't have to breath the engine bay air.
Those added to the natural cooling effect of the venturi keep the carb temp down where I like it.

2, The shunt I cobbled is curved to better match the existing manifold passage, and (hopefully) yield a smoother exhaust flow, than the flap did.

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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 12:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:40 pm
Posts: 1533
Location: Seattle,WA
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how is your driveablity with that mod?

is there any other issues with it?

i think its a great idea to simply the exhaust manafold and it would make my super six conversion easyer cause i coudl dump the flapper.

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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 12:49 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2003 6:43 pm
Posts: 976
Location: SoCal
Car Model: Toad Wagon
The driveability is quite good, I can run the top end for hours on the hottest days with no loss of carb efficiency. However I believe these are pretty much SoCal (read warm weather) mods, something mostly for desert driving.

If I lived where ice forms outside the fridge I'd likely keep and service the heating-up systems already on the car.
At the most I might make'em manually operated rather than automatic but it seems to me they'd be useful in Oregon.

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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 7:42 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:40 pm
Posts: 36
Location: So. Cal.
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Old6rodder, I could not have said it better myself, now like he said we live in So. Cal. so we can probly get away with this a little better. I took a look at you pics. what you did is exactly what Iam doing. I should be tig welding it today so we will see what happens. Thanks for the tips

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 2:22 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 6:50 pm
Posts: 196
Location: walton NY
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i would need nickel rods they come in a red box there for cast.. and a blow torch with a small gas welding tip you should hold it on till its cherry red then run a bead... im a certified stick welder...but ya its still a tough job..

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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 4:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2213
Location: Everett, WA
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Quote:
In the past when I had some V8s dyno'd I picked up anywhere from 4 to 6 hp from putting ice on the intake. So iam not a fan of heat in my intake. I will be doing this tomarrow hope all goes well.
With a V engine, the carb is sitting in the middle of a heat pump, so any cooling is good, with a inline engine the carb is 6" away from the heat pump, so any cooling, is not so good.

You don't need to block the top of the exhaust manifold, just removing the flapper valve is more then enough.


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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 5:12 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Heat is good for mileage.
Cold is good for power.

Which is why a thermostatic air cleaner is good; hot air during cruise, and cold air at full throttle..............

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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 6:24 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:40 pm
Posts: 36
Location: So. Cal.
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The welds came out great.Ive been driving the old dart for a week now and have no problems, and thats with a carb with no choke. This past weekend it was high 90's and today low 60's so its had cold and hot weather. Overall Iam very satified

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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:40 pm
Posts: 1533
Location: Seattle,WA
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i drive with no choke on my 1bbl and prolly a manual rigged choke on my 2 bll and after is warm it all good!

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