I'm planning on having the '66 slant ready to go by the time I install it so all I have to do is turn the key when it's in, but I'm still trying to make up my mind on what carburetor I want. I have the option of using the freshly rebuilt Carter BBd that I got with the engine, getting the Weber 38/38 DGES Jeep kit, or going with a Motorcraft 2100 (351 CFM version) that already comes with an adapter plate for the Jeep intake manifold (ie: should share manifold/carb bolt patterns with the Super Six manifold I have).

I'm leaning toward the Motorcraft at this point, due to the fact that it comes with an electric choke, the adapter plate, requires less fiddling around for the initial setup, and also costs about half as much as the Weber kit would. And as the icing on the cake, I can get a matching air cleaner with a snorkel that can easily be made to fit the Motorcraft, as opposed to the cheesy little POS gauze based air cleaner that the Weber comes with.

Thoughts?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Yeah,

Bag the Weber and go with a Barry Grant.....oops that was not an option was it.
Does the Motorcraft have the hub and spoke wagon wheel venturi????
If so, that would probably get you the best mileage over the BBD.

The Weber parts are too pricey for what you get. My buddy went that route and regretted it.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Never heard of the Barry Grant option. Details?

I'm not sure of the venturi style of the carb. For reference, here's a link to the guy I'm thinking of getting the 2100 setup from: http://tinyurl.com/4tuttv

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I've also been trying to decide between a Weber carb and another 2bbl.
Weber makes good carbs, but for the money involved (which is usually an issue for me) I would go for the Motorcraft if it were me.
I never cared for those funky little air cleaners either.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Webers are nice, very tunable. You get what you pay for--I am assuming the higher priced Webers you refer to are NEW. Something to be said for that. I have a Weber 32/36 and like it. The only thing I would suggest regardless of the carb you choose is to install an O2 sensor so you can see what your Air/Fuel mixture looks like, both at idle and fully loaded. A logging instrument would be the best--you can tune a carb without this but you will spend a bunch of time doing it...

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Slanted D150

I like the design of the Autolite/Motorcraft 2bbl and 4bbl carbs. Good booster design and function. The only problems I ever saw with them was the choke. Since you get an electric choke with the kit it should be fine.

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Joshua

http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=5a

I've never used one, but I hear mixed reviews...

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vm

There've been a few Motorcraft/Autolite 2100 conversions reported here on the board, all with very satisfactory results. See Kesteb's, for example, here.

I've definitely read and heard more about Demon carburetors causing problems than bringing solutions.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Jopapa,

The guys out here really like them over the Holley 350 and 500 two barrels.
The Holley's are real good too. Many run them. They both give good performance and mileage. The Barry Grant is a little more refined than the Holley and more adjustable. When running at the track you can guy dial them in to get the last degree of power. They are super easy to work on and make changes quickly. I like their design allot.

When I go to a 4 barrel manifold, the Barry Grant is what I will run. My son has his back barrels turned off so he can drive on two for mileage then turn the back barrels back on for the track.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Kesteb's conversion is what prompted me to research going Motorcraft in the first place. I like how clean he made his set-up too.

I'm thinking I'll go with the Motorcraft. The water heated baseplate is a big plus too, that I had forgotten about...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Actually, I wouldn't touch the water heated base plate with a 10' pole. Heat the manifold, not the carburetor. If there is any possibility of carb icing then heat the intake air. Ford used those stupid heated base plates as FE motors don't have an exhaust crossover. I'd never seen so many heater hose clamps in my life until my friend Jackson brought his 390 powered '66 F250 into auto shop.

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Joshua

Pricey Yup over here the set of 36DCD7's for my weber job wil cost R9000

about $1225 inyour money tracked down a nice set witch I am rebuilding

for $200

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

I agree with Joshua about the water-heated baseplate. That heater won't do much to vaporize the fuel but putting (or keeping) a hot-spot in the manifold under the carb will vaporize any fuel that falls out of the airstream and puddles on the intake's floor.

Heating the entire carburetor will cause percolation problems. Instead, heated air to the carb will help to keep it from icing if it's a problem.

Yep, I can't think of a good reason to heat the carb. The existing manifold heat supplied by the exhaust manifold should be quite adequate. If you're running headers or some other exhaust setup that won't heat the intake, Frank Raso (see above) has a very nice hot-water manifold heater available.

Choke problems can easily be forestalled (nyuk nyuk nyuk ) with either an electric choke conversion or a manual choke.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Jopapa,

My dad had the water heated carb and it would vapor lock bad. We would get stuck many times waiting for it too cool down. Didn't do a thing for mileage. Bad design....keep the carb cool as possible. Just run the hot air in the snorkel only and manifold heat. In fact the aluminum intake warms up so much faster than cast iron. It is real nice in the winter months. Start the car, kick down the throttle, put it in gear and go. I am doing 50 mph in about 3 blocks with no fade on power like the cast iron manifold.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG