Anyone have picks of these cranks to show how to find if one is really shot peened ? Or even the rods that where shot peened, with a rod that has not been to show diff.


I just pick up a 63 yellow block engine out of 63 ton truck with big cast iron bell housing and hugh clutch. After taking it apart there are a few things that stand out about the engine but I am not sure about this crank. I have not cleaned it up yet so it may be hard to tell anyway, but one thing we noticed is on the center weight throw where you normally see a machined surface that has a shine to it, it has a mat finish instead of being real shinning, like something was done after machining. There is almost zero balancing holes on this crank at the throw interections, infact all but one spot its a big nub sticking up there with no drilling at all and the one spot that is drilled, is very light. Leads me to believe its atleast a crank that came out very straight, and close to being balanced right out of the box.


Something else we thought was odd, looking into the water jackets at the cylinders ( through a open freeze plug hole) this block looks like a brand new block with no corroasion what so ever. How does a 40 year old plus block look like a new casting in the water jackets ? The engine did come from a old farmer that bought his truck new and the body just got so bad they where taking it to the crusher when I saw the engine and ask to buy it. He said this truck never left the farm from the day they bought it, but it had been setting sense 1995. When I took it out it still had antifreeze in it, but setting for 13 years unstarted and the inside of the block looks like a brand new casting? I am almost afraid to let it set in dry air and the more I think about it I believe I will spray the water jackets down with a good oil to keep them unrusted. I have never seen a block that has been used for years look like this inside. I also have a 68 block that was a one owner and had been running all of its life, never set, and was claimed ( he even had years of docs & records ) to have been serviced well, the inside of this block does not even come close to looking as good as this truck block.


The block seems to be a thick casting as well, measuring between cylinder three & four shows to be .190 thou (with a drill bit) . With the out side across them measuring right at .590 thou. That seems to leave .200 thou wall thickness at the thin spots on this block. I am thinking a .100 over bore at this point. The block is a -1 if that really means anything. I have a 68 block that is a -2 that checks to be thicker than this one, so who knows. After I have the cylinders sonic checked if its really this thick I will bore big, but leave some room for freshing up latter. It would be nice to use the 4.6 ford pistons that are 3.550 ( or somewhere around there) with about a 1.2 cr height. Thats going to take a long rod, but for such a nice piston it will be worth it.


Also the rocker arms are heavier in this truck engine, they aprear to just be of better metal, and the beams are a lot thicker than any other set I have. Side by side they look just like any other, untill you start measuring cross thickness and looking at any lines, markings where it was stamped, it just looks like all lines are much more defind and exact, as if the stamping die was better shape, or the metal responded to the stamping better. I am going to weight them compaired to others and see if it shows any difference.


Jess

Shot-peened crank was standard equipment in the "225-2" heavy-duty truck engine. Also polyacrylic valve stem seals (not a big deal any more w/today's available seals), double-roller timing chain, and in the heavier-heavy duty versions, stellite-faced exhaust valves with positive rotators. No weld repairs allowed on the block from the factory. Higher standards for crank inspection. Never seen anything to indicate different rocker arms specced, but if nothing else sounds like you found an extra-good set.

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