I'm gathering a lot of information from this site. thanks! Getting it now and using it for the future of my 1971 dodge dart 4 door (sleeper)

Need to know what size headers will fit my 225. I heard there's a few diff. kinds of headers or something, wont work on all applications. I found a cheap set, and i'm wanting to buy them, but want to know what to ask about them, for my vehicle.

Also am interested in a camshaft. what's the stock specs for my 225 camshaft? how much is too much for my stock engine.

Thanks again everyone! "dart on"

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71 Dodge Dart Custom 4-Door. 86K original. A/T. Blue with white vinyl top. Blue interior. 225 SL6. 1 barrel, new fuel pump, autolite platinum plugs, fuel line upgrade, new shocks, new drum brakes and hardware, A/C, all stock

I believe the stock specs are around 234 duration??? Yeah, ok it's been a while. However, I can answer the second question. I run 270dur with .44 lift. My suggestion would be 264 duration with .46-.48 lift should be a pretty good cam grind. The Erson one I know is very popular, but never ran it myself. Custom grinders like OregonCam will give you a great deal on stuff like this.
To tie in with this thread does anyone know anything about roller cams for the six?

Schneider does

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

The good stock cam is 244/244/26 .406 lift intake, .414 lift exhaust...

There are a couple of good street grinds if you search around on here if you are not changing your rear gears and torque convertor...


Roller Cams for the slant are not to be had, the Cox Brothers had a few billet blanks made and with the hefty price tag of $1200 each, they didn't make many of them... (Doc brought one up when he visted, the base circle was .6...) Doc experimented with using a cast blank and had it austempered but it got 'lathed out' and became a pile of bits in the oil pan...(you can do a search on here, I've on the search for this subject and this is a real $$$ thread)... The cam will make gobs of power, and the lifters are easy to get, the problem is making a blank, getting it sent to someone who can grind a good profile on it and not having it get lost in shipping... another thing that complicates matters is having a positive stop on both ends of the block to keep the cam from walking, the timing covers isn't the most stable and the rear cam retaining plug isn't the best either to keep the cam from having 'zero' walk....

Good luck to both of you...

-D.Idiot

I wouldn't go with a bigger cam until ignition, carb and exhaust were upgraded. Then if you want to keep the stock torque convertor, stay with something along the lines of the Comp Cam 264S,
ADV DUR 264*
.050 DUR 220*
VALVE LIFT .440
bowl port the head and have it cut .040-.060 while your installing the cam.

The problem with the roller cams is getting a blank with a oil pump drive gear. Like DI stated, Cox Bros had some made at one time.
If you run an external (belt drive) oil pump, the drive gear is not needed, then most of the larger cam companies can grind a roller cam for the slant six. Use a BB Mopar roller lifter like the Comp Cam 829.

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Slant Cecil

I have a hard time understanding a recommendation for a Comp cam, given the many problems with comp cams (wrong cam sent, wrong cam ground, oil holes sloppily drilled or undrilled, nonsensical lash specifications, etc.) and given the helpful, accurate, fast service on well-thought-out, properly-ground cams we've been getting in the Erson group buy.

But I agree with Cecil that there are other things better upgraded before the camshaft.

As for which headers to pick, my answer would be "None, get Dutra Duals instead."

But have you planned out a comprehensive set of goals for this car yet?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

goals for now are stock bottom end. super six package. nothing to blow my pocket book, but something i can reliably drive everyday.

future would be a racing 225 of some kind. not now though, too many other projects

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71 Dodge Dart Custom 4-Door. 86K original. A/T. Blue with white vinyl top. Blue interior. 225 SL6. 1 barrel, new fuel pump, autolite platinum plugs, fuel line upgrade, new shocks, new drum brakes and hardware, A/C, all stock

I personally like the the isky grind, but all in all, for $100 I can send my cam to OregonCam and get the profile I want. The cam is small potatoes from what you listed above. I would take off the head and have it cleaned, shaved .1 and take a die drinder and do some matching. Yeah, it's alittle more money than the Cam, but the engine can stay in for now and that head will be borderline done for street application.

Also, thanks for answering my question you guys! I'm in the process of making a couple sets of roller rockers, and if I can find a good CNC shop I plan on having them cut other stuff. The only thing is I will cut stuff dependant on popularity and say "here's what I got if people are interested" no discussion on stuff untill some are made.

Keep working on specificity in your goals. The better you plan ahead, the better and less costly will be the result. See this post .

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I've never had any problems with Comp Cams in the past. Great custom master profiles. Good Power.

I think Cecil was just trying to give a 'common' example of how much cam you can get without having to buy some special items (stall convertor)... the 264 is pretty 'plain', the Erson buy would be a better deal.. I know some people have had some bad dealings with comp, the Beater Valiant has a custom grind in it from them and the oil holes were in the right place and so far it hasn't grenaded after quite a few 4500 rpm power launches. They do have a fairly wide library of lobes... I have 'scribled' a few of their mopar only lobes into the book, for such a day when a Roller Cam would be a 'possibility'.... but much like parts in the auto industry things are getting hit and miss in many respects...


good luck,

-D.Idiot

Charlie???

Yes, "along the lines of the CC 264S", a common example. Not neccessarily a Comp Cam product. Any OEM replacement or aftermarket part can be flawed, not just C omp Cams. Buy what you think is best and inspect it before installing.
Anything bigger than 220* @ .050 duration while trying retaining the stock converter and/or high rear gear will yield poor driveability and a high degree of frustration.

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Slant Cecil

Sorry Charlie..



I mean Cecil... man I'm getting old enough to have CRS... that ain't good..




-D.Idiot

Dan,
there were problems with some of the Erson cam blanks as well. The oil feed holes in the cam had to be modified. See the Twiggy build-up about page 4 or 5. Has anyone else checked their cams when installing them and found similar problems, or was it just an isolated incident? Hope it was an isolated cam blank but it still bugs me to have to modify a new camshaft that was not made right to start with.

Rick