Hi folks,

I'm changing the (canister style) oil and filter in my ole 63, 225 Dodge .

I pulled the old filter out and noted that it was quite dry on the outside and there was not much oil on the inside of it either.

I had expected it to be soaked.

Also? the canister was totally void of old oil.

So, my question is:
"Is this normal ? "

I'm wondering if possibly a filter bypass or check valve is stuck ?
Or, after sitting for those few weeks, the canister/filter just drained out completely ?

Oh yeah, the dipstick showed full. Not overfull.
But who knows? it may have been a little low last time I ran it ?

Another comment:
No mechanical oil pressure gauge (yet) but the 'oil-light' does go out when the engine fires up.

Thanks for your advice in advance !

_________________
~Spider
1963 Dodge D200 w/225
______________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness and third,
common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison

How tall is the stand pipe?
The standpipe is about the only thing that would keep the oil filter full and from draining back down into the pan.

If you go to a regular oil filter, try a Wix 1806. It has a built in standpipe and will keep the filter full at all times. I am running 0-30W Mobil One which can drain back fairly quick. With the 1806 I get 50 pounds pressure right away in the morning with out engine noise due to a lack of oil.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

How dry is "dry"? The antidrainback valve on your oil filter can may have degraded after this many decades in service. On the other hand, if the oil pressure warning light turns off quickly when you start the engine, even from cold, even after sitting for awhile, then you haven't got a problem.

Ted: The standpipe you're thinking of is not applicable to this filter setup.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, the warning light does go out quickly.

To answer your questions Dan....

How dry (regarding the inside of the metal canister)
Just a light film

How dry (regarding the pleated outside of the oil filter)
Not bone dry but close to it.

How dry (regarding inside the oil filter)
Not dry, wet/black dirty oil visible thru the filter end openings.

(the whole filter hardly dripped any oil as i pulled it up out of the canister.)

Please explane antidrainback valve.
where is it?
Is it built into the filter or the steel canister ?

Thanks !

_________________
~Spider
1963 Dodge D200 w/225
______________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness and third,
common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison

It's built into the steel can, below the "floor" of the can visible from up top. To inspect it, you'd need to unscrew the can from the engine.

But here again, if the oil pressure warning light's turning off quickly when you start the engine, then you haven't got any significant problem.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok, thanks SlantSixDan !

I intend to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge (and keep the warning light too) as soon I get the oil cleaned up, timing (getting a new/used damper to replace the one that fell apart) and adjust the valves,
new hoses and a lot of other minor things..
The old "road draft tube' was gone and a couple of feet of heater hose was it's replacement and it was sludge-clogged up, thinking of re doing that with a PCV valve and a hose to where? only one intake nipple inlet on the intake manifold and thats used for the vacuume advance can.
Original air cleaner=gone.
Just a little aftermarket chrome "hat" with no filter in it.
It sit's on a 2Bl carb w/ an adopter. No good, right? (plugs are soot-black)
But I do have a one barrel (rochester) to replace it with..gonna rebuilt that.
Like i say ? lots of little stuff to do. But I have lots of time (retired) and little money. So, at least time is on my side.
Well...sort of.........
My health is good

Again thanks.
A great forum and you "informed sl6 experts" sure know your stuff.

_________________
~Spider
1963 Dodge D200 w/225
______________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness and third,
common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison

Good idea. THat'll give you a clearer picture of the oil pressure behaviour at startup.

Tune-up parts and procedural recommendations are in this thread. And here's the valve adjustment procedure.
All '63s had PCV from the factory. Sounds like a previous owner removed yours and fashioned a road draft tube (kinda, sorta) from heater hose.
Argh. Problems! The vacuum advance needs to be hooked up to the appropriate port on the carburetor, not to the intake manifold. And the PCV would've originally been ducted with a rubber hose to a nipple on the carburetor's throttle body.
Urf. Sounds like the previous owner liked to do things "half at a time".
Right.
Not a correct carb — there were a few Mopars that used Rochester carbs, but they were '70s-'80s V8 models. If you're interested, I do have a correct carb for your car in stock.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan for taking the time to help me. The links will come in handy for sure. And I appreciate your carb offfer (more on that below)
Your answers have cleared up most all my questions.

More good news..
My son-in-law has just found me a Holley 1920 1BL carb.
He says it's the right one for my engine. I think he is right ! I also remember reading a post in here referring to the Holley 1920. Can you verify ?
It has the ports for vacuum and PCV !!! And looks like it came off a recently running engine, kinda fresh-greasy on the outside and the hoses are flexible and just snipped off. If it is correct, I will get a rebuild kit (hopefully available ?) clean it up and use it.
So that should resolve the "Where to hook up the PCV and vacumm can lines" question...good.
Than I will just need a PCV valve and a grommet for the valve cover and worry about the carb linkage when I install it. One thing at a time for me.
So, wow ! with all this information and the parts I'm gathering ?
Just may get this engine running like it should in the not to far off future.

Again , THANKS !

_________________
~Spider
1963 Dodge D200 w/225
______________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness and third,
common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison

I thought the 63's had Stromberg carbs, but the I thought the /6's all came with "spin-on" filters.

Holley 1920s, Carter BBSs, and Stromberg WA3s were all factory-installed on 1963 slant-6 engines. Which car got which carb was to some degree a function of the model, its equipment and specification (rod or cable throttle, small or large throttle bore, standard or taxi/fleet-lean calibration), and beyond that it was whichever came to hand when that engine was being assembled.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.