This is the trans that I'm building for my '67 Valiant. It's going to replace the 3-speed manual for improved consistency at the strip and to handle the rigors of the new nitrous breathing engine. The only part of this job I'm actually doing in the kitchen is clean the case.

This is the first automatic build I've attempted. The slant core was $40 as it was supposed to be a good trans, but had a broken torque converter. I bought a A998 core for $10 so I could upgrade the clutches and planetary gears. The A998 guts have 4 disc clutches and 4 pinion planets rather than 3 clutches and planets. Unfortunately the A998 front clutch drum was eaten up by the kickdown band as the band was completely devoid of friction material. The kickdown band strut was laying in the pan along with a good pile of metal shavings.

It looks like I'm going to have to make, borrow or rent some tools to do the rebuild as getting the clutch packs apart will take tools I don't own. I already made an adapter for my slide hammer to pull the front pump. I'll likely farm out and bushing replacements.

The plan is Borg Warner clutches and a TransGo TF-2 shift kit. I'm considering a kevlar kickdown band. Any other tips or hints?

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Joshua

I could, but use the utility sink in the laundry room.................


Although I did this in the kitchen

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Hum sounds like my engine in the living room trick.
Josh
Keep us posted with pictures and any "tricks" or pit falls you find along the way. You might want to talk with Woody B on the forum here as he is REALLY good with TF trannys.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I once assembled a whole motorcycle in my parents family room.


TopHat

My landlord would sh*t a brick...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Joshie225, there are some lube tricks for the front pump support and the rear support that are suppost to help the parts last better. I dont have exact info on this mod but if you do a search on google I think you can find it. It may even be the same mods used on the 727. There are companies that sale these parts already modified if you wish and they have the bushings replaced as well, ready to install. One of the trans builder companies sale a book with the info on how to mod these trans and improve there performance, and mainly durability. I believe it is this company that does this.
http://coperacingtrans.com/


Also pay close attention to the front drum assy, it seems like there is some small diff's when going to a 4 clutch setup and there may be some clearance problems with contact at the drum to look out for.


Running NOS you might consider the billet servo parts for low/rev and then a 4.2 ratio second gear band level. Also the bolt in sprag would be worthy of such a build.


Use air pressure to test all the fluid ports/passageways so you can look for leaks from interenal cracks in the case before spending your money to build this case.


There is several of the rings/seals that they require upgraded pieces for a performance build, I believe the book I mentioned explains the why and where for these.


I use to do performance builds on these tranny's but its been 20 years sense I have touched one becuase I ran all stick tranny's after awail. A lot has changed and the book, plus the people at the link I pasted will help alot. If you have not bought the parts kit yet there kits are very nice stuff.


Jess

I don't have utility sink so the kitchen is it. Good thing it's not an enameled sink as it would not have done well.

I need a day off this week so I can go into Portland and get the parts I need. My trans building buddy said to use Borg Warner clutches and a solid snap ring in the high gear drum instead of the wavy one. He warned me that it might be a bit harsh going into reverse with the solid snap ring, but I can cope. Aside from a complete overhaul kit I'm thinking Trans-Go TF2 shift kit, kevlar kickdown band, all thrust washers and new front pump bushing. What else?

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Joshua

TFs usually have a lot of end play in them so I try to take most of that out.
(Thicker fiber washers or double-up 2 thin ones)
DD

That is what happens when you run a TF w/o kickdown linkage.

Make sure you take pictures of it that you can post whenever anyone asks if you can run one w/o kickdown.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

wow josh i hope your wife is ok with you doing that in her kitchen

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

I did mine in a bedpan full of stoddard solvent in Fopars gravel driveway.

You kids. Need all the comforts of home!

CJ

Miiii-yy 904 Clutch pack has as many as yoooo've got!

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Ceej, you have no idea what's comin'.

Actually, CJ is the only one that knows the whole story. Everyone else can wait and learn.

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Joshua

I'm so looking forward to seeing you launch!

Go Josh!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I went to Portland today and got trans parts. Got a rebuild kit with Borg Warner clutches, big bag of gaskets and seals, a Trans-Go TF2 shift kit, new front pump bushing which I had pressed in, and a good 4-disc front drum.

Now that I'm full of pizza it's garage time. I'm going to put the clutch packs back together with new frictions and steels then maybe reassemble the pump.

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Joshua

Make sure you use a Factory service manual and set the clearance on the clutch packs. If you need to take up clearance you might get away with using an extra steel spacer. Also, many transmission shops have varying thicknesses of steel spacers to use as shims.