Yes. I have an MSD Blaster II with the resistor (MSD #8203 kit) installed on the vehicle.

I bought the MO-3000's on line at http://www.dmauto.com and yes they are the tan ones. BTW they fit snug on the shaft. Not like the ones you buy at the auto parts store.

_________________
'72 Duster (Performance 360)
'83 Ramcharger (Performance 318)
'80 TrailDuster (360)
'80 D-150 Truck (See Below)
CompCams 252S, Holley 390cfm, Offy manifold
Ported, Polished and Gasket Matched
P4286813 Springs,0.040 Overbore,
0.090 Shaved Head

bwhitejr,

How does your truck perform?
After your rebuild has the power level gone up dramatically?
Did you recurve your distributor?

My rebuild and tuning results have been amazing! It feels like I have a 318 under the hood, not a SL6.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ted,

I have been driving my rebuilt SL6 since Dec 2005. And yes, it is much improved. The engine needed rebuilding since it had 224,800 miles when I decided to rebuild it (father son project). I am currently chasing down a low speed idle problem. It will idle a little rough (not much) just not smooth and purr like I think it should. I have been telling myself that it is the fact it has a 4-bbl and it just suffers from poor fuel atomization. It has been 11,00 miles since it has been rebuilt so it probably need to have the valves lashed. The lash settings for the CompCams I have is like 0.010I and 0.012E, which I think is entirely too tight. (Anyone have better settings for this cam?) I read the post about relashing the valves, but still don't know what "feel" is right. Yes. I recurved the distributor. I still think there is performance that I haven't tapped into yet. After all it is a truck and is heavy relative to these A bodies everyone has.

BTW I have owned this truck since November 1979 and driven it ever since. It is a lifetime truck, not many can say that about their vehicle.

bwhitejr

_________________
'72 Duster (Performance 360)
'83 Ramcharger (Performance 318)
'80 TrailDuster (360)
'80 D-150 Truck (See Below)
CompCams 252S, Holley 390cfm, Offy manifold
Ported, Polished and Gasket Matched
P4286813 Springs,0.040 Overbore,
0.090 Shaved Head

bwhitejr,
Since my cam is the same profile early on I asked Doc about this same question because I was not happy with the idle either at those settings. He suggested that I try .012 and .022. After several trials/tests that is what I ended up with. His thought was that more seat time would help out the torque. Doc was right! My Dart weighs 3280 pounds which is not light by a long stretch but I can bust the rear wheels loose with the 904 automatic and 2.76 posi rear at will. Between the long lash times and the distributor recurve I picked up alot of punch and a super smooth idle.
Give the relash a try and I bet it will smooth out.

My SL6 was at 384,000 when it got bit by a bad oil filter that collapsed and would not bypass. So my first two rods #1 and #2 squeeked do to lack of oil at 60 mph........they were pretty black when I pulled them. My tranny has 385,000 on it now and it still shows no signs of giving it up.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I decided to re-visit the re-curving. In view of the all new wires, plugs, cap, rotor.....

I pulled the distro and took a look at the springs. The primary was a red/orange one. and it seemed to be the same (tension and size wise) as another green primary spring I had. So I put the red/orange primary and a doctored secondary (big loop, with travel just shy of the end of max travel).

With initial at 16* or even 18* I couldn't get the thing to ping. My choices (easy and less easy) are change to UR-4's from UR-5's or run 87 octane gas instead of 89 octane.

I am running a 9R governor and a 11R vacuum can.

bwhitejr

_________________
'72 Duster (Performance 360)
'83 Ramcharger (Performance 318)
'80 TrailDuster (360)
'80 D-150 Truck (See Below)
CompCams 252S, Holley 390cfm, Offy manifold
Ported, Polished and Gasket Matched
P4286813 Springs,0.040 Overbore,
0.090 Shaved Head

I would go to 87 octane and UR4 plugs. Mileage and power would likely improve a little, although it may be hard to notice without careful measurement.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I run the UR4 and 87 octane with no ping using 16 degrees initial, 16 degrees mechanical and 20 degrees vacuum at 2500 rpm.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Same here. I ordered two and they're both the correct, tan long nosed rotor. The NAPAs here are still having trouble getting them, but it seems the parts ARE working their way back into the system. I oughta order a few more just so I've got a stockpile of 'em...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me