Ok fella's. Tom has the rod design finished and is getting them in the works. Part number will be dh7005behb6-a and should be hitting the shelves in 14 weeks. We've got the ok to put the flat top pistons into production. I think we're looking at about the same time line for those. We went with the 7.005" length and .901 pin diameter. The design weight is 644grams...which is far ligher than the 760gram o.e. piece.

Interesting! What material are these to be made of? What'll they cost? (I fixed your image link, BTW)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Those look nice.

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obliquely-inclined state of mind

Those look pretty!

I assume these will have floating pins (bushed).

I am in for a set of rods, pistons, and rings when they are ready. Now, which block should I use...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Nice! Wish I hadn't just built a new engine...

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vm

As Lou says looks good. Im getting close on ordering a full set up.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

thanks for the fix on the link. Dammit Jim, I'm a piston designer, not an I.T. guy

Anyway, yep, the rod is 4340 steel. Very fine tolerances, very strong, Bushed, etc.etc. Tom's the rod guy, so I'll let him field any questions, but you can expect a very nice piston to match. I put the parts request in to include our Steel Nitrided, Napier XX ring pack. Extremely high tech. I asked for .025 and .045 oversizes to match the 1/2 mm incremements the rings are made in. We're making them light, yet with thick lands. Our full on 4" nitrous pistons are .250" thick in the crown, but .180 is all that people need in reality with this smaller bore. We're going to thicken the lands though considerably, which is the usual point of failure. I've got a skirt shape on them that will reduce rock considerably. And oh, yes......I think you'll be very happy with the combined price of the pistons and rods. As soon as the pistons are near completion, I'll report the part number. Also, you will see it in the new catalog that is released at PRI/Sema. -Brian Nutter-Wiseco Piston

Brian
Thanks for taking the time with us head cases.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Brian,

Thanks again for the detailed update. These sound like great pieces.

Two more small things:

1) Just to confirm - you will be putting valve reliefs in for valves up to at least 1.76/1.50"?

2) When you say 0.025" and 0.045" oversize, is that over a stock bore? Knowing how far the Slant blocks can go, I start my overbores at 0.060" and many people go to 0.140" over. I would suggest starting at 0.045 over (metric) and go up from there to accomodate the conservative folks and the more radical.

Thanks again for your consideration,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

last I spoke with Brain he was in for the valve reliefs that could lower compression and accommodate larger valves. Its almost time to sent off the block for machine work "A" comrades?? I will start with .045 over for the street motor but wow can a slant handle the .140 over bore???

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)

Doc

Would this rod make a 260cid build a bit less complex less grinding etc - looks like a lower profile compared to stock rods

Fanie Gerber

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

The 4.500 (4 1/2) stroke SL6 is really tight in the crankshaft pocket area, that is why I tell people to go with the 4.440 instead, that .060 difference save a bunch of grinding work.

As for how the new rods will fit with a longer stroke, it is really hard to say with-out mocking it up in a block.
The main interference points are at the bottom of the bores and just below the pan rail, on the non-cam side.

You will always have to do some notching at the bottom of the bores with a stroker but the rest of the block grinding will depend on how wide the big end of the rod is and how the bolt heads / nuts are designed. In any case, small head, 12 point bolt heads / nuts should be used in order to get as much room as possible.
DD

Lots of people do 0.100" over, and several have done 0.140" on race motors, even w/o hardblok. I have heard of 0.180" over, actually, but I would think you'd need sonic checking or a lotta luck.

So, is 0.045" over the biggest piston they will make? I can deal with that, I suppose, but I'd rather go bigger, like 0.085" (still metric).

Keep us updated!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The piston manufacturer will want to stay with established metric sizes.
We are working in the 87.5 to 89 mm range.
There are a lot of modern day engines that have piston / ring sets in that size range so we are in pretty good shape, availability wise.

Here are the metric sizes and the decimal conversion: (rounded)
87.5 mm = 3.445
88.0 mm = 3.465
88.25mm = 3.475
88.5 mm = 3.485
89.0 mm = 3.504

The SL6 starts with a 3.400 bore size so we go .045 oversize when moving to the 2.2's "standard" 87.5 size.

I'm not clear on what Brian is trying to tell us with ."025 & .045" oversizes unless these are "file fit" type rings for the 88 mm (.020 o/s) and the 88.5 mm (.040 o/s) 2.2 sizes.
DD

Lou I think that maybe the middle ground i did say to Brian lots of street slants sit around .060 over for the extra cubes. I think he may have more up his sleaves in different sizes. I told him to start with something at 3.430 and go up to 3.50 for the racer boys but we'lll see.

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it's like a vw, sounds like a million miles an hour but goes really slow. (for now)