It is always interesting to take apart "give away" engines.

I know this one will be fun... based on the backwards dents and holes in the oil pan.
So, do you think the con rod bolt(s) broke or are the bolts / nuts still together... but with the rod it's self split in two?

Place your bets... I will pull-off the oil pan this weekend and take some more photos of the damage.
DD



And, a close-up shot:

Lower part of con rod is still attached to crank with bolts.

Damage caused by whipping action of the lower part of con-rod.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I'll second that!

TF

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Even in moderation i am excessive!

Same here But what bothers me is that there is a nice imprint in th oil pan of the bolt side of the conrod - it looks as if the rod bigend and all came down.....

as if the whole lot gave wayon one piston alone..

BTW tracked down one of the RSA Charger power units - was reputed to give 190BHP and had a head with more flow and a std 9.3 cr with a better cam will report back

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Im not sure about the bolts.... It looks like it ran for awhile maybe til it ran out of oil??? Be interesting to see the main bearings.
Good thing is this may be resurected most would just give up.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Whatever broke first, I bet it made a lot of noise. I hope he was in a mood to enjoy it, and not too bummed out by the inconvenience, or cost of replacing it. If he/she was looking to replace the engine anyway, maybe it was a thrill. If this was their only ride, and on a tight budget, then it was probably heart break.

That being said, I think the engine ran dry, the connecting rod bearing seized and then snapped the rod about two-3 inches above the journal. The broken but still attached end end then whipped around and caught in the pan. I assume no damage to the block, since you posted no photos of that. If the wrist pin had failed, it might have come through the side of the block.
Or maybe not.
Sam

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All I know is that's the cleanest running Slant Six I've ever seen.

... and the car gets great MPG, when you are pushing it!
DD

A little JB weld and the oil pan is clearanced for a nice stroker crank now.



I wander if the cylinder wall is still intact? Did the rod break just because it broke, or did something from the top help it out? There is a chance they just run it with a rod brearing so loose that it finally broke one rod bolt and when the cap moved out on the one side then thats what was hitting the pan. But it looks like the rod snaped and what was left was swinging and got the pan. As long as the block or crank is still usable its a worthy salvage.

Was this engine in something getting run a little hard, or was it just a daily driver that let loose?


Jess

I am with emsvitil on this one, the rod broke and is still attached to the crank.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

This engine was rebuilt sometime in the past, it has .030 oversize pistons, that all look good from the top. Needless to say, number 6 piston is not moving and my guess is that the #6 piston skirt is also busted-up.

The story that came with the engine is that it was rebuilt "stock" and installed in a daily driver car. The engine blew-up, the car was "parted-out"... the engine sat for awhile and then offered to me for "parts".
DD

Oil Pump drive gear failure caused the problem!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

It looks like the con rods shot right through it, haha... but who knows, maybe ceej is right
Another idea is someone decided to stab a hole in it. but probably not.

My first guess would be that The # 6 piston went up and never came down again, that the pin was yanked out thru the bottom of the piston. Then the rod hammered a hole in the cylinder wall and broke itself.


I also vote for the big still being bolted to the crank. Maybe the rod is still in one piece, and the bottom parts of the piston got under it and damaged the pan?

Has anyone seen rod bolts fail on one of these that was not due to improper assembly?

Since the big end of con-rod is so close to oil pan, and wasn't tightened properly could have loosened up and pounded the pan and rod also finally failed?

Cheers, Wizard