I'm getting the all the odds-n-end together to assemble my Slant when the shop is done with the machine work.

Should I get new main cap and connecting rod cap bolts, or can I use the original ones?

While we are on the subject, what about the head bolts. Can I use the originals or get new?

Thanks for any and all replies.

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Bill

'60 Dodge Dart Pioneer

Vivian

those are all available from ARP. I believe we have Doc to thank for that.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

Yes, ARP has all the needed fasteners but you can re-use all of your current bolts, as long as they are still in good condition and your build is not too aggresive.

This advice applies to stock and "mild performace" applications.
As you start to get into more HP, replace the con rod bolts and have the rods re-sized.

If compression gets over 10.5, use the head studs and more torque.
High RPM, blower, turbo, NOS.... put the main studs in the bottom and have the mains "align-honed" - resized.
DD

Thanks for the info guys.

Not going real aggressive, just the standard Slant treatment...oversize valves, bored 0.060 over, 266/254 cam, Offy 2X1, Dutra duals, head/block work aiming for 9.0 to 9.5 compression.

Priced out the ARP sets. I'm sure they are worth it but they don't give 'em away.

Time to clean and inspect the original bolts.

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Bill

'60 Dodge Dart Pioneer

Vivian

With what your talking about on the build, I believe I would go with the ARP rod bolts. All the rest I would use stock. It would be best to get your rods resized anyway as long as you have a good machine shop around that knows what there doing.

The weak link in these engines are the rod bolts and although the engine you described does not sound like a lot, there will still be much more pressure on the engine and chances are it will want to peak around 5400 to 5800 RPM. This is enough RPM to warrant the better rod bolts with such a long stroke crankshaft. If you do get the ARP rod bolts the rods will have to be resized for sure. These are well worth the extra money, but they do have to be installed correctly in the rod, and torqued according to ARP's instructions.


Although I must admit I have used the factory rod bolts at this level and beyound. But when you start getting a bit of money in a engine it pays to atleast try and protect it from killing itself.


Jess

Point(s) taken.

I broke down and bought the ARP rod bolts. Call it a $50 insurance policy.

Thanks, All, for the input.

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Bill

'60 Dodge Dart Pioneer

Vivian