I had a tranny pan causing me leak after leak. I would bend the flange, and it would leak somewhere else. Enough was enough, so I got an aluminum pan, that holds two extra quarts. I put it all together. That was tough being so close to the pan, with my car on ramps. That spacer was a booger to get on there. But everything fit the way it should have.

I put in 5 quarts of fluid. And then ran it through all the gears while idling. I could feel it hit every gear okay. So I backed it off the ramps, and drove it down the street. This is where the nightmare begins.

I am waiting for it to hit second gear, but the rpms keep climbing, and there isn't a shift. So I stop the car, and check the fluids. Low, so I add another quart. Still low, and ended up adding another quart and a half to make it full. I ran it through the gears, and all seems okay. But I put it in Drive, and again it sounds like it just sticks in first gear. So then I pushed the button for first gear, and it down shifted. HUH????

Okay, so this time I start off by putting it in first gear, and when the rpms get high, push second - no shift.

So I am getting baffled. Having a deeper pan, is there something I am missing here? Would this require an adjustment that I am not aware of?

I seem to remember there were a couple of other things that needed to happen with this swap and it was all covered in a couple of pages in an old mopar action article... wish I remember which issue...

-d.idiot

For the transmission pan and filter issues particular to pre-1964 transmissions, see this thread. SOunds like you might've tried to install a '66-up (single-hole) filter on your '63, starving the rear pump for fluid and causing improper shifting behaviour.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I do have the canister. But when I opened up the tranny pan a few years ago, I noticed a filter in there. I go to the Kragen site, and ask for a filter for the 63 Dart, and I get the same one that was in there.

But you do have something there. The filter that came with the larger pan, I only remember one hole. I just looked at the one I took out of there from Kragen, and it has two holes. So that is indeed the problem. So now I have to get that original filter, and make a hole in the filler block and gaskets. That should open up the second hole.

Thanks.

Wouldn't you also need to drop the oil pickup because the bottom of the pan is lower?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

The instructions didn't say to do that. I got the Summit pan- Summit SME-1010R If you go to their site, and lookup 904 transmission pan, you should see that. Where it tells you to check to see if it fits your car, no year is listed. But looking at that picture, it does show me I only have one hole in there now. Whereas the previous did have two.

You do want to extend the fluid pickup. The good-quality deep trans pans come with an extender (which is only good for the '66-up single-intake setup). The Summit house-brand pan, probably a generic Chinese item, doesn't come with an extender.

Me, I'd probably do it over with the late Chrysler pan, the late Chrysler gasket, and the proper 2-hole ('64-'65) in-pan filter. And I'd get rid of the in-line canister filter; it's gotta be long since plugged up by now.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I don't mind the cheaper pan. I have no problem with the pan. I have a problem with the Summit SUM-G1893 filter kit they gave me with it. If you look up the pan, the application doesn't have a year. It looks like it is good for any year. I looked at other pans, and the suggested part had this kit. I look at the application there, and it shows it is for 62 on. But as you can see, only one hole. Summit has a problem there.

So if this pan isn't leaking, what is the problem with me removing the spacer and filter with one hole, and skipping the spacer, and installing the filter with the two holes. Sure, it doesn't go towards the bottom of the pan. But does it need to?

Secondly, I want to get rid of that canister, but haven't seen a solution for the gap it will leave, once I remove it. A rubber line sure wouldn't go well there. And the steel line and couplers are hard to find. Any suggestions there?

By "filler block" do you mean a spacer between the valve body and the filter, used to lower the filter? If yes, then that is all you need to do. Open the second hole in the block and gaskets, use the two hole filter, and you should be good to go.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Yes, my mind is a little blank at nighttime. That is the spacer between the filter and valve body. It is an aluminum block with three holes for the screws, and one hole for the front pump.

So you say I can drill a hole in the spacer, and use the two hole filter. I was hoping I could drop the spacer, and just use the two hole filter. I just don't know the need for putting the filter down so far. Like if it is a pressure thing or not. I would prefer not using that spacer, as well as prefer not having to drill it. So what is the purpose of the filter extension?

Splash and aeration will likely cause your trans pumps to suck air under some circumstances.
You could certainly use a rubber line there, as long as it is the correct kind of rubber hose. Plain old fuel hose obviously won't get the job done; you need the extra-strong reinforced variety specifically intended for high-pressure applications like power steering and automatic trans fluid. Or, you could make up a whole new trans line.
Any hydraulic-line repair service ought to be able to make you an appropriate section of hardline with the right fittings on it if you remove the filter and take it to them.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Okay I guess I will be drilling the spacer and putting a new holes in the spacer gaskets.

I'll have to do some local yellow pages research to find a place to make the line.

I have raced my car w/o that spacer in it for a long time and nothing happened.

My trans guy never puts them in a car that doesn't at least run in the mid-11's.

He was a Chrysler certified trans tech for years and works for Griner Racing Transmissions now.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Then why bother with a deep pan? I use a deep pan, with the extended pickup, and run the fluid at the add fluid mark, hot.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

For the extra fluid capacity.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.