The aluminum intake presents no drawback in summer or in winter. A phenolic carb spacer was standard equipment starting in '73.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Actually there have been a few health articles pointing towards aluminum in the diet or from frying pans being 'not so good' for humans in the long run (right up there with lead, mercury, cadmium, and teflon paint from non-stick pans...)... personally having driven both types of manifolds either is fine, the aluminum one is just a lot easier to install due to weight savings (which reminds me why the offy and clifford hyperpak intakes are much lighter than a stock super six stack...)...

Check your rear ratio, yours is an 'early' run car so who knows what the ratio is... the A-833OD got the 2.94, and the A-904 version got the stocker 2.76's... you may have either the 2.94 (most likely which is a good 'moderate' mileage ratio... I currently drive beater valiant with an A-230 and 2.94 rear...), some manual 3 spd cars got the 3.23 rear ratio, so you might already have a 'zippy' rear (in which case an A-833OD would be fine for an OD highway gearing scenario...)


Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

Yup. Few years ago they were talking about a link between aluminum cookware and Alzheimer's disease, but last time I checked I think that had turned out not to be the case. But I'm sure if it's not Alzheimer's, it's something else. I've been steadily getting rid of the teflon cookware. We bake our bread in cast-iron loaf pans now, and we use the cast-iron skillet. Once cast iron's seasoned, it's almost as nonstick as teflon. Plus, if some burglar breaks into my house, whackin' 'im with cast iron will work better.
+1. When I was a teenager and thought it was keen to spend hours bent over fenders, contorted up under dashboards and in all kinds of other consequence-free weird positions, it didn't matter. Now that the reality has sunk in that I'm not permanently 18, my back votes for an aluminum intake, every time!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I will try to check rear end today. 55 mph is the highest "comfortable" speed, anything beyond that and it really starts to buzz. Luckily (more by design) most of my driving is highway rush hour, running 25-55 relatively smoothly.

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1976 Dart Lite /6 3 Speed

Actually there have been a few health articles pointing towards aluminum in the diet or from frying pans being 'not so good' for humans in the long run I try to drink my beer from glass and not cans!

Check your rear ratio, yours is an 'early' run car so who knows what the ratio is... some manual 3 spd cars got the 3.23 rear ratio, so you might already have a 'zippy' rear (in which case an A-833OD would be fine for an OD highway gearing scenario...)

mine came with 3:23's max I ever got was 29.5mpg Check the tag on the rear cover for your gear ratio.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Call me crazy, but here's what I would do:

don't know how far you want to tear into the engine, or how much money you have to spend, but here's my ideal mpg build:

13:1-14:1 mechanical compression
Custom ground Atkinson Cycle camshaft (this would allow the above CR on regular pump at the expense of hp). Basically it gives you a greater expansion ratio and lower effective compression ratio by holding the intake valve open PAST BDC, allowing some of the air to get pushed back out the intake. This lowers the effective intake stroke and cranking compression ratio to allow regular unleaded. The Toyota Prius uses this technology to run 13.6:1 compression ratio on 87 Octane. Here's a wikipedia link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atkinson_cycle

I'd have the heads treated with some type of thermal coating to minimize heat loss to the head/valves and reduce the chance of pre-ignition due to hot spots in the cylinder head.
http://www.polydyn.com/cylinder_heads.htm

Because you'd probably see a rather significant power loss with the Atkinson Cycle camshaft and the lower effective displacement, I'd consider a turbocharger to regain the lost hp. The Squires remote-mount turbos are claimed to actually improve MPG, which from an engineering standpoint is believable, because they use denser, slower moving gases to spin the turbo, which should reduce intake pumping losses enough to more than offset the increased exhaust restriction. Here's the lnik:
http://www.ststurbo.com/

Finally, if you end up fuel-injecting it, definitely use a wide-band O2 sensor, maybe even one from the manual trans Honda Insight, due to their ability to accurately measure ultra-lean mixture ratios.

You probably don't want to, but if you made some aero-mods to the car as well to reduce it's drag, I don't see why you couldn't make over 40-45 mpg hwy, presuming the factory 36 mpg rating is reasonable. The Superbird would be a good place to start aero-mods from, as it had a lower Cd than the new C6 Corvette does.

Finally, I'd consider a different transmission, maybe a T-56 variant with that .50 OD. That would allow steeper gears without a loss in mpg, making the car more fun to drive with a lower-hp engine. Then you could even choose a short enough rear gear that would match the stock 1st gear final drive ratio in 2nd gear, and then just start out in 2nd unless you where racing.

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1963 Dodge D100, SL6 and 3-on-the-tree.
1961 Dodge D200 Crew Cab, ex-USGOV, SL6 and NP435.

Holy crap that is a lot of info!

I am going to go a little more basic first. I intend to maximize the current configuration, only going into the engine if needed. The backup plan is a finding a spare /6 for a build, that tries many other tricks, such as oil drainback and windage, coatings, etc. Turbo is very appealing, as means to have the HP when wanted, and utilize the heat for improved fuel atomization, etc. Fuel injection sounds like a good compliment to the turbo, and I have mental images of an intake manifold redesign, however unrealistic it may be

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1976 Dart Lite /6 3 Speed

Update:

I got the carb back. I had to do some surface cleanup between the base plate and main body, as there was some SLIGHT warpage around the holes that connected the 2.

Once assembled, I found that all but 3 of the screws that held the top hat to the main body, were stripped!! They snugged up enough for a test fire and start. After a little adjusting it started and sounded great. I spin around the block revealed it was much brisker, faster, and peppier. I also found out that the "accelerator pump rod" is totally missing in action. It appears it goes from an ear on the throttle blade, to the accelerator pump arm. I found one I robbed off a thermoquad, that might work. The car runs much better rebuilt, and I can't even image how it will run with an accelerator pump shot to get off the line.
The carb went back out to my brother shop ( I don't have tap and dies ) and should be back in a day or 2. I can't wait to drive it with a fully functioning carb!!

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1976 Dart Lite /6 3 Speed

One of mine ended up that way, because I was constantly trying to tune it.
After going through tuning two 1945's, I gave up.

I took Doc's and many others advice and switched to the 1920 Econmaster. It is allot quicker to get into and change the jets, accelerator pump, etc. You might want to pick one up from SL6 Dan before going too crazy. The 1920's are simple carbs that work amazingly well.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

When did they get the sink strainer under the 1bbls? 198???

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

"Sink strainer"...?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Soon....
I need to get the 1945 running first, so I can drive the vehicle. After I get it back roadworthy, I will investigate the other carb options.

I wonder if it would be best to convert to 2 bbl now, so I have enough air flow once the turbo gets in the picture?

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1976 Dart Lite /6 3 Speed

Yep I have found them in intakes in the JY on two different trucks. I snagged one. If I can find it I can email it to you.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Can you describe the device you refer to...?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Rug_Trucker, Was that with a stock engine? in what type car (the 72 Duster)? and which transmission (3 speed or 4)? overdrive?

Was that a one time situation? what is you average mileage with today's fuel?

What carb and #jet were you running?

Thanks for elaborating on the set up.

I am kind of stuck at 23.5 mpg average with my driving style and conditions (stop and go on the freeway, etc), automatic and 2.76 Posi. I tried a 3.23 for about 14 months and it dropped down to 21.5 mpg.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG