First, I will apologize for this not being slant six-related, but it is help we need with my son Aaron's newest project. Most of you guys know our complete story of his first car, the slant six "DARTSTER", so I don't feel too bad asking for help with this one. Besides, I wouldn't ask, if I didn't think ya'll would have some good information. We got PLENTY of help on his Dart build.

So, here I go... Start-up time is fast approaching on the '74 Gold Duster Aaron is building. A few more minor issues to resolve, then we will be ready to crank up his new 360 (there, I said it).

Yesterday, I talked to the mechanic that rebuilt his Holley carb. I asked him for suggestions on a break-in procedure. Since Aaron and I have only been involved in one previous project (his slant six Dart Sport), I need to do a little investigating to lay out a game plan for this new engine's initial start-up.

Well, here it is --- give me your best list of things to do to prepare for breaking in his new engine, leaving out no minor detail. Spell it out as clearly as you can in the correct sequence, including all warnings and "oh, by the ways".

We have a '85 360 with:
Cylinders bored 0.030"
Lunati Voodoo mild cam with dual-coil springs and lifter kit
Mopar M1 dual-plane intake
Holley 3310-4 (750 cfm) 4bbl with new electric choke kit on 1" spacer
New stock electronic ignition components (ECU, volt. reg., coil)
Original distributor
Dynamax headers

If any other information is required, let me know. We are really getting excited to see it getting this close to completion.

Thanks very much,
Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Are the valve springs single with the flat damper or really two round wire springs? What rings were used? How were the cylinder walls finished? Has the radiator been cleaned? Is the carb known to work well? Is the distributor set to fire #1 and not #6? Do you have an oil pump priming shaft and 1/2" drill?

You need to make sure all systems are go (timing, fuel and cooling) so that you can fire the engine without extended cranking and get it over 2000 RPM right away to break in the cam. You need to keep the engine over 1500 RPM for 20 minutes and vary the engine speed between 1500 and 2500, maybe a little more. Different speeds load different portions of the cam lobe so don't stay at one speed. Low speeds load the nose more and provide less splash lubrication which hurts cams and lifters.

Prime the oil system with a 1/2" drill and the 3/8" hex shaft. Most 3/8" drills are too wimpy and too high speed for the oil pump load. Wrap the priming shaft with tape where it passes through the intermidiate shaft bushing so you don't tear up the bushing. You can also rotate the engine a turn or two by hand while priming to line up the valve gear feed holes in the cam to get oil to the top end. Check for oil leaks while priming.

Running higher speed with no load makes it run lean so you may want to turn the idle screws out a bit from lean best idle so you don't end up with glowing headers.

Change the oil and filter after breaking in the cam. After the cam is broken in take it for a drive and use moderately heavy throttle to build cylinder pressure and seat the rings. Avoid high engine speeds though.

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Joshua

Don't guess I know what you mean on this engine...
The bottom of the distributor shaft has a flat "blade" that fits into a flat "slot" in the top of a gear that is driven by the cam gear. The bottom of this slotted gear has a shaft that drops down farther to drive the oil pump. I didn't think I could prime the oil in this engine like a GM motor. Am I missing something?

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

On the LA Mopar engine, you have to pull-out the oil pump / distributor drive gear / shaft assembly and then use a special priming shaft to reach down and turn the oil pump.

Prime the oiling system then re-install the drive.
DD

Do you know what the spring pressure on those dual valve springs might be? That can make a difference in break-in procedure. GENERALLY with dual valve springs, its recommended that you remove the inner spring during the initial cam break-in (first 20 minutes of running- see below).

Here's what I'd do:

1) Prime the oiling system with a power drill and priming shaft (available from places like Mancini racing.

2) Re-install the intermediate shaft and distributor.

3) Remove the inner valve springs, reassemble rockers, and put on valve covers using the reusable type rubber gaskets.

4) Use a good quality regular old oil (don't screw around with single-grade oils or crap like that). Consider adding a can of GM Engine Oil Supplement to aid cam break-in (I assume you coated the cam lobes and lifters with special camshaft lube upon assembly).

Make sure all fluids are full, and everythings connected right. Have a fire extinguisher handy.

5) Start her up and hold the RPM between 1500 and 2000. DO NOT let it return to idle. Keep an eye on the pressures and temps, have a helper watching everything under the hood and holding the extingusher. Run the engine at 1500-2000 RPM for AT LEAST 20 minutes. Do not shut down unless there's an overheat or pressure loss or fire (obviously!)

6) Shut down, change oil and filter to whatever type of oil you plan to run. Re-install inner valve springs. Look for leaks or abnormalities.

7) Drive normally, except try not to hold a single speed for extended periods for the first 1000 miles.

I like to change the oil filter an absurd number of times during break-in (like every 500 miles or so until ~2000 miles) but its not necessary.

_________________

Run the cam in as per above advise.
Then take it easy for 500 miles keeping an eye oil temp, oil pressure, listen for odd noises etc.
Then, take it out and race it.

_________________
Richard (aka Fingers)