Started up fine and then the fusible link blew out. Replaced it and checked all connections(tightened the one I thought was faulty), but it blew out again as soon as the battery was hooked back up. What's the best way to trace the short?

Use an ohmmeter. Remember that when measuring resistance you want to have no power in the circuit (Battery disconnected).

Put a new link in, then connect the ohmmeter between the plus and minus battery cables. Set the meter to a low range (x1). You should see infinite resistance if everything was working ok, but instead you'll see a very low resistance, probably just a few ohms, due to your short circuit.

Now start disconnecting things until the resistance path goes away (the meter or display jumps to infinity). Start with the big things... alternator, starter and relay, etc, and work your way down to the smaller things (like pulling the bulkhead disconnects, etc).

Remember to keep your doors closed, else the dome light will give you a reading on your ohm meter that could throw you off the path. If you have an underhood light (available in 73???) unplug the bulb as you are testing. Headlights, parking lights, cig lighter, all turned off.


-Mac

In addition to Slanted Opinon's info above, I might suggest you pull all the fuses from the fuse panel before you start. If you have a shorted condition with them all pulled, you'll have to track it down or repair it before proceeding. Then install the fuses back into thier proper places one by one to see if any of the "secondary" circuits have a problem.

(It sounds like you have a "primary" circuit problem. Maybe the ammeter lead shorting out under the dash?)

Roger

thanks guys, tracked it down

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That's it? "tracked it down"? You're not even going to tell us what was causing you grief?
C'mon.....you might help the next guy.

Roger

Yes.. let us know!

After I pulled the fusible link, I noticed that another spade was looking a charred, which was the alternator charging wire. Followed that around, and found that it melted to the AT filler. This was just after I replaced the head, timing chain, and a couple other things, so the bulkhead connector was jostled around. Its always something simple. Thanks again.

Does anyone know of a place to get brass spades?

I've had luck with both NAPA and Waytek getting the pins.

The brass spades you're after are Packard 56-series unsealed terminals. They come in plain brass and plated varities; the plated ones are more corrosion-resistant.

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