Hey guys, quick question for you all:

Are the ECU's (start-run modules) on /6's the same module that were installed on the LA V8's? They look exactly alike...

Just asking as mine is "bleeding" and needs to be replaced. I'd like to get something just a little better than stock. Thanks!

Yes

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

No difference. I ran the mopar orange ECU on mine for a long time and it worked well. Anything more than that really is a waste of $$$ on a mostly stock /6 that you are not gonna wind to high anyways .

Awesome. I was planning on using the Orange Box - the silver and gold are indeed overkill for most cars, not just /6's
I've got one in my Cordoba, and it works great.

Thanks!

EDIT: I just should have fished around until I read Aggressive Ted's sig - that would have answered my question

Speaking of reading signatures - Ted, I was planning to put an electric fan in my car as well - what did you use?

I ended up using the ProComp fan because it is the narrowest/thinnest 16" fan that I could find. They are listed on eBay.

Send me your email so I can send you some pictures, a fool proof wiring diagram and web info.

The reason I cam up with my own wiring is that the fancy ones you buy seem to not last too long. I burned up two in a few months. Mine uses a standard Bosch relay and temperature switch found on most all American cars. That coupled with Mr Gasket's thermostat readout radiator cap and you got a pretty nice setup!

By the way if you get the orange ECU get a MSD Blaster 2 chrome coil and use the resistor that comes with it. It is bigger and totally sealed and rated at .85 ohms instead of 3 ohms like the stock resistor. It will provide a full 10 volts to the coil at a 600 rpm idle. Coupled with some 8mm spiral coil wires, Bluestreak cap and MO-3000 extended tip rotor and NGK plugs gapped at .045, you get some pretty hot spark! Start ups are instant!

Since my Dart is a work car and fun car it never sees over 4000 rpm much, I usually am out of straight road by then. I cruise at 2500 rpm, 60 mph, but it will shoot up to 4000, 90 mph in a heart beat! The chrome box or HEI are needed at higher rpms although lots of MOPAR's at the track still use the Orange or Chrome box. I have seen allot of 10 & 11 second passes with those two boxes.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Can you use a blaster coil with the stock black box? What is the advantage/ difference to the orange ECU?

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

Sure you can. The orange box provides more spark at higher rpms so it is over kill for a SL6, but if your stock box from some low end parts store starts to melt, the Borg Warner box or the MOPAR Orange box is not a bad upgrade.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Good luck with a new orange box. I've heard bad things about them (like not lasting). Dosn't seem to be a problem with older ones though. In fact, the orange unit I had on my '70 Fury lasted almost 10 years. If you get a Standard (brand) ECU, I think you'll be fine.

My Black box is vintage Mopar, it came with the car as far as I know.

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

Eric,

I have new one that I ordered from Summit and it has been holding up fine over the last two years. Got 38,000 on it so far. ..... I do have a spare though. I didn't see any Chinese marking on it or the packaging. I have not seen any of these ever go out on any of my MOPAR's. Just the distributor pick-ups seem to wear out.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The only thing I'm unsure of is some of these ECUs have 5 pins, and some have 4 pins. Can someone explain to me why this is?

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

The extra wire is for the 'start' circuit on the dual ballast resistor, if you put a 4 pin module in place of a 5 pins you'll never notice a difference. If wiring EI from the ground up, it'll save you time not having to wire the 'extra' loop for the dual ballast resisitor, and can retain the old style single resistor.


-D.Idiot

Wow, nice inexpensive fan! I like that - I'll be PM'ing you shortly with my info. Amusingly enough, you answered all my ignition questions that I posted in another thread, too! Thanks!

The 5th pin is supposed to be used with the dual ballast resistor to bias the power transistor on the ignition module. 4-pin modules internally bias the power transistor. 4-pin modules can replace 5-pin ones no problem, but you can't put a 5-pin module in a car with a single ballast resistor.

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Joshua