ok i am thinking about adding nos to my 225 after i build it and have all my head work done how much do you think i could run without messin up some thing inside

_________________
1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

I believe slantzilla says 100 should be no problem at all, Right Zilla?

_________________

wow that sounds like i will be breaking land speed records with that lil six

_________________
1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

RPM proportional nitrous controllers allow for greater power gains than fixed on-off systems. Progressive control allows for a fixed torque gain rather than a fixed power gain. People usually break engines by hitting the button at too low an engine speed or by using too much. It's really the same thing in both cases, excessive cylinder pressure. You can use twice as much nitrous at 4k RPM as 2k RPM because at twice the engine speed you are only admitting 1/2 the nitrous per cycle and progressive controllers allow for this.

Most nitrous controllers I've come across are time based rather than RPM based which is fine for a drag car, but not so good for a street car. Say you're racing from a roll. If you're already at high RPM the engine can swallow a lot of nitrous, but a time-based progressive system can only ramp up the nitrous according to it's timer settings. It might take 3 seconds before you're at full power with a time based system, but the RPM based system would deliver full power immediately.

There are also very fancy systems that have gear dependent nitrous delivery which is good for traction limited applications. FWD comes first to mind.

_________________
Joshua

so how much could a controlled like that cost

_________________
1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

Depends on what you buy. Lots of products out there. Check Jacobs Electronics, Nitrous Express and others for RPM based progressive controllers.

_________________
Joshua

cool thanks

_________________
1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

Would that be New Old Stock parts? If so add all you can! (sorry.... those that have seen the Laysons thread will know where that came from) Just make sure taht they are REAL Chrysler parts not counterfeit!

A good tune-up is a ton more important than a nitrous controller, especially at 100 horse. I can tell you from personal experience that a 100 shot won't hurt a motor as long as you have your timing right and proper fuel pressure. 150 is dancing with the devil, but will live with care.

I've had the same bearings in mine since I started spraying and they still look like new. I used to launch the car with the juice hooked to the horn button. People swore I was going to knock the crank out, but the bottom end has never been harmed.

All the nitrous controllers in the world won't keep the head gasket in a Slant if you try to go over 175 horse. Pistons are in harms way too.

1/2" head studs, O-rings, and copper gaskets will hold up to about 220ish, but that's a lot of work for a street car.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

one more question i will be using cast aluiminim pistons from summit racing 60 over will they hold up to it

_________________
1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

If the tune-up is good they will be fine. If you run it into detonation, nitrous rich, or fuel rich they will not last. Neither will forged though.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

so do i mess with it to get it right or what i found the system i want but i got to get the $$cash$$ first. i have been looking all day

_________________
1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

Nitrous is not "plug and play". Just like any type of boost you will have a learning curve. Do you know how to read plugs? You will have to read them after every blast when you start out.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

like looking at the plugs to see if they are fauling or what

_________________
1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

With N2O, you will be looking at the plugs to make sure the ground electrode did not get melted-off! (that mean it's too lean )
DD