Wayne?

What was the dimension of the steel you used for your subframe connectors? Super clean install!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

HI CJ: I am here at the office so might have to "wing it". They are 3/4" X either 2 1/2" or 2 3/4". You can use a die grinder and cut three of the four sides of the frame "pocket" where the bars will slide into. If you leae and don't cut the bottom of the pocket and cut just the top and both sides, you can then "fold down" the metal exposing the pocket area. Leave the bottom intact ....the new piece will then slide into the frame pocket area about a foot. There is a frame piece that is inside the pocket area that will stop the new piece so when you get there, that is the farthest it will go into the pocket. Then you can cut a couple of 3/4" holes on either side of the frame pocket and "button weld" on both sides. Then the area around the front piece that you cut the three sides on, will allow you to weld there also. The piece that is folded down and still attached will let you weld it on the bottom side of the new piece of frame connector. When you die grind the three sides of the existing frame pocket and fold it back, you will get a idea of the maximum size of the connector that will fit into the pocket area. I think it will be either 2 1/2" or 2 3/4" Three inch is to wide...Most metal shops can order you a "stick" of whatever size you need. I think I ordered a 10' piece and that did both sides. Using the flat connector, there is no need to have to "pound" up the bottom of the floor pan..it fits almost perfect along the floor pan. Up front, use some 1/8" stock and after you test how far the connector will go into the newly opened pocket area, you can then mark where it will weld onto the trans. mount using some flat stock. You can actually weld up the portion of tht flatstock to the connector before you weld it in place at the rear. That way you have a good 360 weld and then just have to weld onto the trans mount. Give me a call if you can't figure out...(530) 345-4222 from 6:00 am to 8:00 most mornings. later, Wayne

Thanks Wayne!

For some reason I was thinking they were 1" x 2-1/2"

I'll be starting on the '63 over the next few weeks, and would like to build up a set like you installed.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Hi CJ..I think you are right...Most likely 1"..I will get under the car today and get back to you...PJ would like to use as many photos of Woodburn as you can get her. Could you/Richard/Andrew/Josh et al take lots of photos to be added to the killer bee website...thanks, Wayne

We'll get it handled! If I'm driving it'll be hard to do. Perhaps we can talk whoever goes out early into zapping a bunch of photos.
First round ought to be Glenn Terry. What's that bounty up to anyway?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Hi CJ: They are 1" X 2 3/4" and easy to slide into the frame "pockets" Can't wait to see your "new ride"..photos available for the website? Later, Wayne

I can get 1x2 or 1x3 from my local supplier.

Where did you find the 1"x2-3/4" Tube? What wall thickness did you use?

I may go with the 1" x 3" and not cut it into the rear frame rail. Just cut it to the contour and weld it up.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

HI CJ: You can almost get the 3" to slide into the pockets. You can always weld it in place along the underside of the floor pan to give it a some extra strength. I went to a local machine shop and they ordered it for me. I think you can find the 2 3/4" as it will work best and fastest for installation. It only took us about a hour to do ours..good luck, Wayne

Wayne do you have any pics of how this finished out? I was going to buy the MP pieces for the 67 A bodies and cut them up, but would like to see your tube setup as its probably a bit more economical and easier to install

thanks

MJ

My versio of connectors, goes through rear floor. Didn´t cost much and was easy to make