hey I am doing a GM module/mopar ignition conversion on my 68 dart, here is the problem, no fire, but if i remove the dist and turn it by hand it will light up my timing light. so assume the ignition is firing when thishappenss, the dist is also NOT grounded at this time (how-ever ) the GM module is


here are my parts
rebuilt electronic Dist
MSD blaster 2 coil
new blue streak cap/roter
new wires

GM moduleNAPA tp 45 module, and a new module from autozone

Heres how its hooked up

C=Neg side of the coil
B=pos side, and batt source Im getting 12.65 Volts ( batt volts)
W= pos lead of pick up coil (orange wire to the dist pickup coil)
G= neg lead Blk wire to the pick up coil
the ballast is bypassed to get 12v at the coil
things i have done

I have tried switching the pickup wires.

I have tried switching modules

the module is grounded,

I am getting 12.65 V to the module on the B term, but even on the Neg side of the coil i get that reading as well??
I even swaped coils

I HAVE unhookedeverythingg and tried it again and again, I looked at two diagrams and they are the same,

I just cant seem to figure out why it will light up the timing light with the dist out of the car and hooked up. But will NOT light it up down in the car, oh the dist is turning in the engine..

anyone have any ideas?

I know its a GM module but it tucks up nicely under the dist.

I have also been told i shouild run the ballast with this setup to..

thanks for your replies

How is the module grounded ?
Ive got mine by running a wire from the module to the ground of the alternator. I would probably say others would tell you to move the module to maybe the fender.
I dont know too much , but am learning , I hope you figure it out


Dave

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

When you measure 12.65v at the module, what're you measuring across the battery?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

hi ty for the replies, the module is grounded with a wire running to the body of the car, , plus it is mounted under the dist on an aluminum heat sink, the 12.65 volts is from the battery, the battery has been sitting about 3 wks, so im sure the Volts have droped some, I do have the same V reading at the battery as I do the coil and module @12.65 which should be plenty of Volts to crank up the ignition, what is strange is when the dist is removed and still conected, it will fire if i turn it by hand, the dist is touching nothing but my hand, but when i install it in the engine i get nothing, i know the pick up coil is new, but could it be defective?

This may be a part of the problem. Body sheetmetal grounds are frequently of poor quality; ground your electrics to the alternator housing or the battery negative terminal.
But what's the voltage to the module while you're cranking the engine? Under starter load, the voltage may be dropping below what the module needs in order to fire.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

well i have tried it again, the V at the module is 12.65 with key on, and drops about 1.5 V when i try to start it, which isnt bad i think for the old 68, i even charged the battery up some.. I even grounded it (module) to a better place, still nothing I even tried a new module again.. re-wired it again and nothing.. I have exellent connections and wire..

anyway im done, i wired up a mopar factory harness with a FBO box and MSD blaster 2 off my other car, and it fired up the first time..

I may try this conversion again someday, cuz i do like the idea of hidding the module out of site..

thanks for the help fellas

The "module out of sight" trick with it mounted to the underside of the distributor works fine on V8 engines with the distributor up top, but I'm uneasy about this module placement with the down-low distributor of a slant-6 engine. Too much risk of road splash and such. And I have to wonder if your module wasn't maybe grounding out on something adjacent...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

yes i like the out of site trick, and please dont boot me, cuz it is a 68 dart v8 318, I know this is a slant 6 site, but a few people recomended that I come here and ask you fellas, Do you think it could be possible the used module I had checked could be bad, as well as the new one? the pick up coil is a new one that came with the rebuilt dist, and the module is right under that on the dist (outside) could the pick up not be compatible? or could it give off a signal that interrupts the module? I do want to try this gain, I know it has to be a simpe solution. is there anyway to check a module with an ohm meter?

thanks again

It's possible. The first one I tried in my conversion went bad, but then it was not OEM, either. A quick swap to a used AC/Delco part fixed it.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

thank, I had them both checked again and they supposedly are good, maybe I will NOT mount it under the dist.. and try it again

thanks