I just picked up a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil for my slant, and the directions say I have to remove the ballast resistor and bypass it. How do I go about doing this? Do I just leave it in place? Any help is appreciated, thanks.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

conect the two wires together off the resister. I'm not too sure on a 4 wire resister, (one side to the other side straight across)

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Same principle, straight across on both, the one side has a 'loop' for the start/run circuit... if he has a 4 pin module it won't matter much anyway...





-D.Idiot

Ok, it is a 4 wire, but the two wires on the left side are connected, im guessing thats the loop? Do I leave that on, or remove it?

(Rough resistor rendering)

wire 1 - wire 3

wire 2 - wire 4

So I would connect straight across (wire 1 to wire 3, 2 to 4)?
wire 1 and 2 are connected.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Leave it on and jumper/splice the wires just like you see them connected to the ballast resistor... (if you have a 5 pin EI module you will need to keep that upper/looped circuit for now)

-D.Idiot

Only bypass the ballast if it's a 3 ohm coil.

If it's a 1.5 ohm coil, you still need the ballast with 4 or 6 cylinders.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Its a 3 ohm coil. I will try it and see if it works...

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

I just got done bypassing/installing everything, and I turned the ignition on but did not start it. Everything checked out... untill I turned the key to see if it would crank, and it clicked, and then nothing. Did I do somthing wrong? I connected the wires like I was told. Did I do any damage to my electrical system? Any help is appreciated.

It is a 4 pin ballast, I will try to post pic later.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

What do you mean it "clicked, and then nothing?"

Did the starter turn the engine over?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I am enjoying watching this thread because I had some of the same questions when I was first doing Pertronix.

Since you starter didn't crank over the engine, clicking is a good indication of a weak battery, dirty battery terminals, or dirty connectors. YOu could also have a wimpy ground of block to body. Run a battery cable from a tranny or bell housing bolt to the firewall. The better electric and starting system you want, the better ground you need.

rock
'64d100

I figured out what it was...

Stupid me, left the pos. batt cable loose and it wasn't getting a good connection.

Took it for a test drive, and another problem came about.

I had bypassed the dash ammeter sometime ago and installed a "safer" ammeter under the dash. I just took it for a test drive, and one of the cables going to the ammeter, melted. Could this be from me bypassing the ballast? I understand that ammeters are not very safe anyway, and tend to do that.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Not unless your ignition is drawing enough power to arc weld with.
Correctly engineered ammeters and their wiring don't. What size cable is your ammeter wired up with?

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Its wired up with either 10 or 12 gauge wire. Its whatever the stock wire is.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Thanks guys for all the info. I really appreciat it. Every thing is working fine now, it turnes out one wire was grounding out on the gauge, but I started a new thread about a ammeter condition I have had for some time if you want to see it.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30425

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels