is it just to reduse the coil (pos side ) of the coil? (MSD blaster 2)and if i change coils will i still need it with electronic ignition.

The ballast is use to allow more current to flow through the coil primary during engine start then reduce the current when the engine is running so that the coil is not overheated and destroyed.

I'll leave the second part of your question to someone else who knows more about the various possible configurations. I don't think it's as simple as just changing the coil.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

If you're using anything but HEI (or another ignition system that specifically calls for no ballast) then you need to carry on using a ballast even if you switch coils.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

i am using the electronic mopar ignition (factory stuff), but am using an MSD coil, an according to their tech, I only need a ballast with points on this msd coil, I asked them if i need the ballast with the mopar electronic ignition using their MSD blaster 2 coil, and he said NO i can run 12v to the coil continuously.. no need to reduce the voltage.

so that brings me to this post,

so if MSD blaster 2 coil can run a constant 12v then i should be able to remove the single ballast. According the the mopar ignition wiring diagram the module gets 12v so it doesn't need a ballast either.

thanks for your replies

The MSD coil may be able to take direct 12v, but the mopar ignition module can't.

The mopar ignition module switches the current from the coil to ground. If there's too much amperage, you'll destroy the ignition module. Without the ballast you're going to get to much amperage thru the module.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

What the guy was probably trying to say was that you need to run their resister WITH the factory resister if you have points. You can run it without the EXTRA resister with a factory electronic ignition. What that basically means is that to run the hotter coil with points you have to cut its legs off to keep from burning the points. It will not really be any better than the stock coil, but there will be two resisters to cause trouble.

The ballast resister adjusts current to compensate for extended high or low rpm, as well as at start up. This also keeps the coil and module from burning.

As already pointed out, you need it unless you have a module designed to run without one.

ok thanks, i wasn't for sure why I would need the ballast if the coil was able to run on 12v, I didnt know the wire running from the module to -(neg) side of the coil needed to be reduced from the ballast,


thanks for clearing that up, now i can see why some of you switched to the GM module, I love reliabliity of the mopar module but seems the GM module would allow more spark to the ignition so to speak, well guess i need to work on trouble shooting why my GM module(s) didnt work with my ignition swap..

TY