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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:25 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 7:44 pm
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Location: New England
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This is self evident, but took me a while to discover. Right when you start up, everything is still cool, and you can wet your hand and feel around for a manifold leak. After it heats up, not so much.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:20 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I im new here, but I have heard that noise before. I think it is a bent rod. A few years back my grandfather had a 76 dodge pick up with a 440 and it made somthing just like that. I told him what I thought it was, so we pulled it apart, and sure enough, two bent push rods. Thats just my opinion. It may or may not be that. Just look into it if all else fails.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:59 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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I was just about to tell you about this little trick, but terry beat me to it.
If you don't have a stethoscope, use a short broom handle or dowel rod. Place one end of it on the spot where you want to listen, press it firmly down, place the upper end against your ear, cup one hand over the rod, and cover your ear with your cupped hand, with the rod against your ear. The cupped hand magnifies the sound transmitted along the rod's length. Move the rod around to various locations to listen to every component - valve train, block above each cylinder, bell housing, etc.

Good luck with the search,
Jerry

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 4:46 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Sweden Motala
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Is this an "untouched" engine, or have you put in new pistons?
A wristpin may have come lose.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 9:04 am 
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Quote:
If you don't have a stethoscope, use a short broom handle or dowel rod. Place one end of it on the spot where you want to listen, press it firmly down, place the upper end against your ear, cup one hand over the rod, and cover your ear with your cupped hand, with the rod against your ear. The cupped hand magnifies the sound transmitted along the rod's length.
This is the right stethoscope substitute for mechanical noises (clunks, thunks, etc.). For non-mechanical noises (whistles, squeaks, suspected exhaust or vacuum leaks, etc.), use a piece of hose. One end jammed in your ear (small hose), and the other end moved around to wherever you suspect the leak might be.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:16 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:18 pm
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Location: British Columbia
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funny thing is my sl6 just started a light knocking sound at cam speed recently. I think my problem is a worn bearing since the sound gets quieter when the engine is warm and after a fresh high viscosity oil change.. Just hope its not a wear issue.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:26 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:27 am
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Location: Rawson,Australia
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Midi wrote:
Quote:
I am in the same boat with you russ mine has gone out also.
(from Manifold Gasket Part 2)
so - you have decided/found that the elusive noise was only a blown manifold gasket?
thats good to hear. :D
it certainly sounded like one to me from your video.

regards,Rod :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 8:56 am 
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Quote:
funny thing is my sl6 just started a light knocking sound at cam speed recently. I think my problem is a worn bearing since the sound gets quieter when the engine is warm and after a fresh high viscosity oil change.. Just hope its not a wear issue.
Could be the fuel pump — try unbolting that and running the engine to see if it still knocks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:04 am 
MiDi what's the status? I'm back from my trip so I can come over one day if need be.
PM me if needed.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:01 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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It sounds exactly like mine a few months ago. It sounded great, until suddenly it started knocking.

It was the loudest just after starting or when hot, With a stethoscope I tracked the sound down to just above the oil pan rail. When I disassembled it one connecting rod bearing was completely gone and the crankshaft looked like this:

http://s537.photobucket.com/albums/ff33 ... 250035.jpg

It took a few weekends, but in the end a rebuild turned out to be a good idea. I found a few other things worth fixing. Like this:

http://s537.photobucket.com/albums/ff33 ... 210002.jpg

http://s537.photobucket.com/albums/ff33 ... 220027.jpg

http://s537.photobucket.com/albums/ff33 ... 280045.jpg

http://s537.photobucket.com/albums/ff33 ... 180026.jpg

It really does run better now, with new bearings, crankshaft, valves, piston rings....etc.

http://s537.photobucket.com/albums/ff33 ... 250001.jpg

I hope you have more luck than I had.
Roelof


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 12:33 pm 
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check this out:

http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n212 ... 000501.flv

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 1:36 pm 
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Supercharged
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That's kinda cool. He can stall the engine by hanging one of the intake valves open.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 1:39 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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it seems rather "dry", not to much oil :?

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Lasse
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Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
7 1/4 3.23


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 2:20 pm 
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Rob or MiDi will be up in a bit to tell you why.

At least the crank can keep time with the radio now.

We'll be rebuilding the engine, unfortunately MiDi's Dart isn't going anywhere soon. :cry:

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 2:25 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 9:47 pm
Posts: 526
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Ouch.

Killing a cylinder with intake valve held open shouldn't have engine stall out on /6.
I can keep my 2.2 4 cyl going with one cyl out.

Could be oil pump had ceased to pump?

Cheers, Wizard


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