This is for a 1967 Barracuda upgraded to Electronic Ignition Also, I'm cheating a bit...it's got a 273, not a /6.

I know this is such a basic problem, but I'm kinda stumped. I've suspected that my battery wasm't charging, so I pulled off the NEG Cable while running & yup, the engine cut out. I've replaced just about all of the elec. components, so I'm not convinced the issue is parts-related, but who knows.

The simple answer would be 'a bad alternator'. But I just replaced this one, so I'm thinking a bad wire, or a wire connected incorrectly to say the Ballast Resistor (4 prong), or the wrong Ballast Resistor, Problem w/ the ECU, etc. Also, I have the older style, black-box Volt. Regulator - is this one OK w/ ECU?

I have hooked up an elec fan, fuel pump & a tachometer recently, but don't think these have any bearing on the alternator...or have I put too much load on this? I'd actually love to go to a newer style alt.


Any thoughts? I am not the best when it comes to electrical, so I'm relying on you smart guys out there.

Is your voltage reg. for a point ignition, or an electronic ignition? I am not the best with electrical, so just my .01 cent.

Also, is your alt new, or reman? I have read bad things about reman alts.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Hiya man.
The Alt is a REMAN, so it could be the culprit. But I'm of the philosophy that if one goes bad, it might be the part. But if a 2nd goes bad, maybe there's an outside reason for 2 failures.

As for the Volt reulator, I dunno, it was a Points-Type Ignition & the VR did stay as it was pre-ECU.

Note: I also have an ECU upgrade on my D100 w/ the same VR from the points-ignition days. On the D100, I have no charging problems.

That's one reason I am suspecting wiring - I am also considering the wiring block @ the firewall. I did have to by-pass this for my ignition switch (thick, red wire w/ fusible link).

I had a wireing problem with my car not to long ago, and SL6 Dan told me "dont throw parts at the problem, buy a factory manual for your car, and diagnose the problem." So I did, and alls fine now!

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

65Dodge100,
Thanks for the links, they are extremely relevant to anyone dealing w/ the elec system.

I did a lot of what was discussed in the mini-artlicle/thesis by SlantSixDan
(Thanks too, Dan) & am coming to the conclusion that my 'lifetime' guaranteed alternator is turning out to be what you guys have been saying - half-assism in the remanufacturing.

I have determined that my Advance Auto alternator is bad by doing a swap w/ my 68 D100. I put the D100s alternator in the BCuda & the following occurred: Enigne dies @ speeds below +/-1750RPM.

My uncientific testing also seems to indicate that my D100s alternator might be on the way out as well.


Regarding other components, I did similar swap-out trial & errors w/ the following: 1) Volt reg - Both get voltage, but noticed that the D100 reads 0.1 volts, while the BCuda's VR read 10.3volts. Maybe I chaecked wrong
or maybe this indicates something?
2) Wiring seems to be OK, but i replaced the green wire from Alt' FLD' to VR 'FLD',
3) Ignition switch - Swapped w/ D100 & no change, however on the BCuda, there is no wire to the 'GRD' prong on the BCuda, but there is on the D100 - either way, it doesn't seem to matter to strating & charging. The wiring diagram seems to show this wiring goes to the instrument panel.
4) Ballast resistor - I'm still not sure about the difference in the BR, but this seems to function correctly.
5) ECU - no issues.

As i need an alternator & I want to improve charging, esp @ idle/low speeds, plus provide more power for any multitude of accessories thaty might come along, I think I'd like to consider doing one of those upgrades to the newer alternator, the Nippondenso, I think.

Any ideas on this ramble?

Any thoughts on that topic?

What is your ammeter doing? Does it show a charge at start, and return to zero? Is it maxed out at idle? Or is it bouncing all over the place?

Also, a VR only reading 10.3 volts? I think its time for a new one. Be careful though, the last one I had almost fried my batt. My new one I got from O'Reillys. I don't think it should read more than 13v, and no less than 12v at idle, but don't quote me on that, someone better my be able to help you more.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Could the fact that I have a pretty 'lopey' cam in the engine be causing charging deficiencies @ idle?

I don't think so, not unless it runs like total crap and barely idles.
But again, I am no expert.

Does it idle smooth?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Go see my latest post in the "Slanted Network" section of the board, about Old Car Parts Northwest. He's got a giant tub full of brand-new Chrysler alternators.

Both of these are odd readings...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Here's something most guys won't admit: Perhaps it's because I dunno what the heyll I'm doing.

Anybody got any thoughts about the culprit being the alternator? If so, I'll
send Old Car Parts Northwest a line, or look up someone local.

In the meantime, I'll check out some of ya'lls threads regarding upgrading to later model alterantors....hmmm, my Bro-in-Law did give me an alt out of a 1988 ramcharger a few years back. Is that a suitable Alt to use? It's got 2 'FLDs' & the rear has 3 square openings & is a bit thicker in profile than my original styled alternator.

On my 2 Alternators, I've got the following numbers 'embossed' (reverse of stamped):

1) 1967 -69? Alternator = #2095192
2) 1988? Alternator - 2095191

Are these actually Parts Numbers or are they casting, mfr or other non-relevant numbers?

Thanks again for tolerating my questions.

Not alternator part numbers...they're really old electrical part numbers for some component of the alternator. Where do you see them?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.