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 Post subject: Torque converter install
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2003 5:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 8:18 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Des Moines, Wa
Car Model: 68 Formula S Barracuda
I have a 904 torqueflite.

I am not sure if my converter is pushed in all the way. The book says I need at least .5" measured using a straight edge across the tranny to the converter lug. I have maybe a quarter inch. I think the converter pump drive is engaged, but it does not seem like I will have any gap or play at the flexplate, and it might be a very tight fit.

How can I check if I am fully engaged?

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Bob Brady
Slanted 67 Barracuda


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 Post subject: stop!
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2003 10:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 12:08 am
Posts: 340
Location: Seattle, WA
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I don't think you have it installed all the way. Keep spinning it and pushing it in until you engage both splines and the oil pump dogs. If you try to pull it in with the bolts, you'll break the pump, and you'll have to pull it all apart and fix that, too.
I made that mistake on a Chevy about 35 tears ago. Been there, done that. :oops:

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 Post subject: 1, 2, 3..
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2003 11:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
AT Converters need to mesh with two sets of splines and then the pump drive "blocks".

If the tranny is still out, pull out the converter and look behind the front transmission seal with a flashlight, you will see two small blocks or bumps, these need to slid into the notches cut into the end of the converter hub.

I see where the pump drive blocks are positioned and put a reference mark on the bellhousing, I also mark the converter shell to keep track of where the hub notches are. Slide the converter in trying to hit the notch, "click, click, Clunk", you should feel all three engagements.

One test of success I use once it's in, is to wiggle the converter back and fourth and listen carefully. (turn the radio off) You will hear the blocks tap into the sides of the notches if you have successfully engaged the slots.
Your measurement check is also a good way to tell if the converter is all the way in.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2003 11:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 8:18 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Des Moines, Wa
Car Model: 68 Formula S Barracuda
Very interesting.

I believe I have engaged the drive blocks with the torque converter. I looked inside and lined up the "dogs" and heard the 3 clunks. Then I turned down the radio and I believe I heard the "dogs" contact the side of the "yoke".

Now I am wondering if .25" clearance is enough for this application, or if maybe I have the wrong torque converter. It was supplied with my transmission when I had it rebuilt???? :( 8)

PS the "dogs" do turn when I rotate the converter.

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Bob Brady
Slanted 67 Barracuda


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 Post subject: ?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2003 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 12:08 am
Posts: 340
Location: Seattle, WA
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If the trans bell hsg can fit flush with the back of the block easily, and you still have an 1/8" to 1/4" space between the converter lugs and the flexplate, and the converter still spins easily, you're probably OK.

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 Post subject: Re: ?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2003 12:58 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 8:18 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Des Moines, Wa
Car Model: 68 Formula S Barracuda
Quote:
If the trans bell hsg can fit flush with the back of the block easily, and you still have an 1/8" to 1/4" space between the converter lugs and the flexplate, and the converter still spins easily, you're probably OK.
Everything bolted up great! The book says the torque converter should rest at least .5 inch lower than the trans bell housing measured from below the straight edge to the top of the torque converter lug. I found that the measurement was just below maybe an 1/8 inch. This is why I was concerned.

I Still had an 1/8 of clearance between the flex plate and the converter, and it turned freely.

Thanks for your help!
:wink: 8)

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Bob Brady
Slanted 67 Barracuda


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:20 am
Posts: 1
Car Model:
I'm having the same problem. My car is a '79 Volare with a Slant 6. It has a 3 spd AT Torqueflight. I've tried spinning it and pushing it to make it line up and drop into place, but it didn't work. Any suggestions?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14850
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Sometimes you have to use one hand to hold the snout of the converter up while you spin it. I have also had to push and pull the converter in and out a little while turning to get the pump drive to engage. :shock:

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 Post subject: Re: ?
PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
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Quote:
Everything bolted up great!
Glad it did, but the fun/nasty stuff happens when things spin at x-thousand rpm :) Good luck!


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