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 Post subject: Sticky valves
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:51 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:22 pm
Posts: 94
Location: San Ramon , Ca
Car Model:
I found a killer deal on a 65 Valiant the other day. It had been sitting in the garage for 28 years . They did not start it during this time. I have it home now, and got it to turn over, but bent 4 pushrods because those valves are stuck. Any magic treatment to free them up
( I'm trying penatrating oil now) or is it best to remove the head and do it right ( I know, I know, LOL !!)

Thanks,

Steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:06 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:40 am
Posts: 76
Location: Indiana, and elsewhere
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I'd say that the 'best' way would be to remove the head and do things properly. But if you're a fan of all things quick/dirty, this might work. Get a brass or aluminum rod(or any metal softer than the steel the valves are made of) and drill one end so it's slightly cup shaped and will fit onto the tip of the valve stem. Make sure you're aligned with the valve, and give a few gentle taps with a 2lb hammer...or not so gentle if things don't want to yield. This may free things up, or may make removing the head necessary to remove bits of valvetrain. Either way, things are closer to being solved. Quick disclaimer: I make no claims at being any sort of expert/role model. If doing anything I do/recommend causes damage to you or your stuff, there will be no liability claims made against me.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:18 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:22 pm
Posts: 94
Location: San Ramon , Ca
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Quote:
give a few gentle taps with a 2lb hammer...or not so gentle if things don't want to yield
LOL!! yes, I should have mentioned that was the first thing I did ( the redneck in me always says "hit first" , worry later). Any others ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:19 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13280
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Pull the valve cover and rocker arms. Replace the bent pushrods. Soak the whole valvetrain with some Marvel Mystery Oil. Let it soak for a couple hours. Return with a big rubber mallet. Whack the end of each valve with the rubber mallet until it moves. Reinstall the rocker arms and whack the rocker arms over the valves to verify the valves move. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:41 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:40 am
Posts: 76
Location: Indiana, and elsewhere
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Notice I did mention making a special tool to insure that the force was localized to the valve, and that the hammer has less of a chance of performing its natural function as sort of a divining rod for locating fragile/expensive car parts and thumbs...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:46 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:22 pm
Posts: 94
Location: San Ramon , Ca
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Thanks guys !! Did a search also and found a good write up by Dan ( imagine that !!) . Check out what $250.00 buys !!
Image

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Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:17 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:30 am
Posts: 945
Location: Tiegerpoort, Pretoria, South Africa
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COOL :!: :!:

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Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:18 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 01, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 830
Location: joyce wa
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Sweet deal :) I had the same problem with a slant van like a year ago and Reed is correct Marvel the heck out of that puppy.I pulled the plugs and did some heavy squirtin in the cyl plus PB Blaster all over the topside.Took two days of soaking and tapping the valves with a med BFH,and use a claw hammer to get um to pop back.Cleaned the rockers and shaft plus 5 new push rods and it's working just fine now.Good luck :) Oh and I do give a guarantee,If it breaks you get to keep both halves :lol:

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:25 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24804
Location: North America
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See this post.

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 Post subject: Re: Sticky valves
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:18 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat May 24, 2008 12:59 am
Posts: 55
Location: Sydney
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Quote:
I found a killer deal on a 65 Valiant the other day.
Steve
Looks a lot like my AP6...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 6:07 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:40 am
Posts: 76
Location: Indiana, and elsewhere
Car Model:
Quote:
Sweet deal :) Took two days of soaking and tapping the valves with a med BFH,and use a claw hammer to get um to pop back.
So that's why the valves have those grooves in them...so the claw hammer can get a grip :-D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:49 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 01, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 830
Location: joyce wa
Car Model:
Sure is nice of MoPar to put them nice hooky groovy things in them valves for claw hammers :lol: But seriously folks,I was dealing with 6 stuck open intakes and I wanted to drive it home not tow it.With the rocker off and Marvel down the holes I put plugs back in and turned it over(with starter) thinking some would get to bottom side of valves.I was looking for a little lube action on both sides of the "it's stuck"area.Doc said there was plenty of room between valves an pistons so no interferance problems.Like I said two days of soaking,tapping and prying up on the spring(being careful to not hook the seal)TaDa it worked :D Now SSDans link on rope trick is ok for seal replacement but if valve is open and you get it apart the valve is still stuck open,now what?I suppose the rope could push the valve back maybe but then I have visions of the rope under the valve etc.It could work but I'd rather hit things with a hammer :wink: and then if that don't work it's "Lets tare down" :lol:

_________________
83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 10:35 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:22 pm
Posts: 94
Location: San Ramon , Ca
Car Model:
Two down , two to go . I went to a crow bar cause I broke my claw hammer and damn near killed myself flying off the car, LOL!!!! I bet my wife wishes that she would have done a backround check before commiting to marriage !!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:51 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:22 pm
Posts: 94
Location: San Ramon , Ca
Car Model:
She RUNS and Drives now !! Thanks guys for all the support !! Took two days ,a couple of pushrods, two containers of penetrating oil, one broken hammer, one crowbar, two starters, and a little swearing , but I got them free and the engine actually purrs pretty nice. Changed out the master and the wheel cylinders and picked up some 14" rims and tires (Craigslist is the best) and took the family out for a cruise. My 11 year old son helped quite a bit and so did my daughter and wife.

Thanks,

Steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:57 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13280
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
One of my favorite stories in the old Slant Six News progressed along similar lines as yours. I believe it was Doctor Dodge who bought a 65 (66?) dart convertible out of a junkyard with a seized motor and detailed his trials and tribulations getting it running. First the motor was stuck, then it had stuck valves, then the carb was bad, finally the distributor was bad, but Doc got it running using parts on hand.

Definitely keep us posted how this goes!

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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